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I use the trainer throughout
I use the trainer throughout the year. If I want to do structured training (primarily using trainerroad) then it just makes sense to do this indoors on the trainer, even if its nice outside. This means that when I do ride outside I’m not having to worry so much about trying to do specific sessions or hit specific numbers – I can just enjoy the ride!
I’ve just upgraded to using a kurt kinetic rock and roll turbo, but the one I was using before that was an old Tacx Sartori (not the newer smart version). The resistance unit with this was absolutely bomb proof and survived a lot of heavy use, being moved around a lot, left in a damp garage, chucked in and out of the car. The resistance was really consistent (it offers multiple levels of resistance) and all in all I was really happy with it. Only reason I’ve changed is that I’m coming back from injury and the leftover damage from that has meant that I can’t really cope physically with riding a bike that is held stationary under me (the Kinetic trainer allows the bike to move side to side as I pedal, a little bit like it would out on the road).
I’ve got Tannus solid tyres
I’ve got Tannus solid tyres on my Brompton. I think they are perfectly good for that use. Grip is ok and the feel is ok. Punctures on a Brompton are an absolute nightmare, especially on the rear, as getting the wheel off isn’t a simple task like on a normal bike. Because of this, solid tyres have given me a little bit more reassurance (not that I punctured very often with the old tyres, but it was always a background fear). Apart from the considerable investment of time and effort to get the damn things on I have not complaints.
For any bike whose purpose is utlity rather than performance then I would say the Tannus tyres are a reasonable option, especially if you are having to ride on roads that are full of sharp detritus. They wear well, last ages, and feel ok. They don’t really compete well with performance tyres and I definitely wouldn’t stick them on my racer. For a town bike , a folder or any sort of utility bike though I feel they are a good choice.
DT Swiss R 24 Spline Disc
DT Swiss R 24 Spline Disc wheels are good wheels that can often be found at a really good price. £200-250 for the pair, bomb proof, good width rim so fine for wider tyres, very nice hubs. About 1800g for the set. https://www.dtswiss.com/Wheels/Road-Wheels/R-24-Spline-db
The model up (R23 Spline Discs) are just as robust, but are about 150g lighter and generally a slightly more refined package. They are though about £100 more. https://www.dtswiss.com/Wheels/Road-Wheels/R-23-Spline-db
Hunt wheels are really well reviewed and the service they Hunt can provide is really good, so difficult to go wrong if you choose to go down that route. The hubs on them aren’t quite as nice as the DT Swiss ones but they are still very good
It’s not just that you move
It’s not just that you move in and out of the saddle more when you are out on the road, but that the bike also moves a lot more under you shifting the pressure points constantly (well, with each pedal stroke). On a turbo the bike is held still, so that normal movement isn’t there. This means that you are pressing into the saddle in a totally different way, causing much greater pressure.
You may find that a different saddle is needed if you are going to be doing a lot of work on the turbo. I mostly use a bontrager montrose 138mm on the road but have a fizik antares versus 142mm for the turbo. Such a quick switch that I don’t mind doing it for the extra comfort.
If you are in the market for a new turbo and are really having issues with saddle pressure, then it would be worth testing out the Kurt Kinetic Rock and Roll turbo – this allows the bike to sway under you so the saddle pressure is more akin to that you would experience outdoors. Not everyone likes the bike moving under them indoors though – its a bit of a weird feeling in a way that a similar movement out on the road feels totally normal
Hutchinson Sector 28s are a
Hutchinson Sector 28s are a good 4 seasons tubeless tyre. If you can’t quite fit the Schwalbe S-One/G-One speed tyres then the Sectors are what I would recommend.
I love these shoes and did
I love these shoes and did buy a pair. Had to return them as the fit wasn’t quite right. Tried next size up and still wasn’t a good fit. I have very wide toes and the toe box on these is definitely designed for narrower feet. Its a pity, as I really liked them. Especially in the pink and blue
If you can’t fit the Schwalbe
If you can’t fit the Schwalbe S-One tyres (G-One speed) then the Hutchinson Sectors would be a good shout. Tubeless, robust, 28mm, reasonably fast and comfortable. Not as fast as the s-ones, but still very good and designed for rough surfaces
Advantage of going to the
Advantage of going to the bike show is that you will get to see lots of bikes from smaller brands that you might not know about, and you will be able to talk to the people from those brands. With the sort of budget you have you could get a top quality bike from any of the major brands or something really special from one of the smaller one, or something that is custom.
Have a think about what you really want from the bike and how you are going to be using it. Keep that at the front of any conversations with the brands.
Many of the brands will have bikes to try out at the show – take fully advantage
There are still loads of top
There are still loads of top quality wheelsets that measure 15mm internally, so you should be able to find something good if you want to stick to 15mm.
23mm tyres will run fine on a 17mm internal wheel. Out of interest, what’s the frame? Bit surprising that you can’t fit larger than 23mm without it rubbing – aero frame that’s a few years old?
Canyon VCLS post is
Canyon VCLS post is essentially a rebranded Ergon seatpost. I have one (ergon) and frankly its amazing. Bit of an arse to adjust (adjusting seat angle requires removing the seatpost) but once you’ve got your set up dialed in it really is good. I”ve tried a number of other ‘comfort’ seatposts, including the specialized cg-r, but this really does provide a different level of comfort while not making you feel disconnected from what is going on with the bike.
If you can get it on a bike as original equipment (and not have to pay a premium for it) then that is great. Would I buy one as an aftermarket addition – well, its a hell of a lot of money for a seatpost. Yes, I love it, but I’m not sure I love it that much.
Boardman SLR Titanium 9.8
Boardman SLR Titanium 9.8 frameset is £1700 – https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/284-ti-9.8-frame-set.html
I’ve ridden a fully build up version (with ultegra and DT Swiss RC 38 wheels) and it was really lovely. It has internal cable routing. Still expensive though.
Going tubeless will mean
Going tubeless will mean that you will avoid vast majority of punctures (no tube to pinch) and with good sealant they should cope with most other punctures well enough for you to not have to stop riding. I’ve been running tubeless since 2012 – I’ll never go back to tubes.
The contis can’t be run tubeless.
I have the Hutchinson Sector 28s. They’re great tyres and I’ve run them (tubeless) for riding on road and more gravelly tracks. They wear well, so you should get a lot of mileage out of them. The grip is good, but it takes a couple of rides to bed in (almost like they come with a coating on that needs to be worn off). They are probably not quite as fast as the contis, and are definitely not as fast as the Schwalbe S-ones, but we’re only talking a very small difference here.
I’ve not tried the panracer tyres.
The schwalbe s-ones (now G-one speed) are 30mm tyres and are undeniably lovely. Fast, light, super levels of grip. I really like these. They are quite a soft rubber though, so wear quicker than the hutchinson sectors. If you have loads of tyre clearance and will be riding on more mixed surfaces, then the schwalbe G-ones (35mm) are a great shout.
I shattered theTalus bone in
I shattered theTalus bone in my right ankle, as well as having a number of smaller fractures around the ankle) at the start of September (hit by a van) and was only allowed to start any real weight bearing shortly before Christmas. My right leg is now half the size of my left.
I had my first go back on the bike on new years day – just 10 minutes spinning very gently on the turbo. My plan is to just take it very easy, slowly building up the time and the resistance but making sure that I don’t push anything too much. It’s not really worth thinking too much about structure for me at the moment – I’m still a couple of months away from being able to really do much with it. When my physios tell me to do more I will.
As everyone else has said, a good sports physio will be able to guide you through the recovery phase. It may even be a good chance to address any other physical issues, imbalances etc.
Hit by a van at the start of
Hit by a van at the start of September = shattered ankle and shattered bike frame. Well, the ankle may still be broken, but my bike has been resurrected with a new frame. Front end position still needs to be adjusted, probably with a different stem, but it’s almost there.
Won’t be able to walk without crutches for months, but riding on the turbo will be an important part of rehab.
Boardman SLS 9.8 Disc frame, ultegra groupset and pedals, DT Swiss RC 38 wheels, Schwalbe Pro One 28mm tyres, Fizik Cyrano stem and Fizik Antares versus saddle, Ergon seatpost, Enve SES Aero road handlebar, stages powermeter.
I’m a massive fan of
I’m a massive fan of trainerroad. In terms of structured training I don’t think there is much to compare with it (from the various options that I have tried), unless you want to pay for a proper coach. I got really good gains in my top level power, sustainable power and, probably more importantly, a better understanding of my limits through using it and it massively benefited my general outdoors riding. I’ve been off the bike with a smashed ankle/leg for a fe months and won’t be able to ride for another few months, but as soon as I can I will be going back on trainerroad to rebuild some strength and form in a structured, measured manner.
If you are really keen on getting better and stronger over the winter then the turbo is really the best way to go. Do the structured training inside – the stuff where you are really working to meet your set goals – then use outside rides to have fun. Trying to do structured training outside is always going to be fraught with difficulties – traffic, weather, and road conditions all make it really difficult to do specific intervals, and this is even more the case during winter.
Doing the quality physical work inside will pay massive dividends to your outside riding. Not having to concentrate on intervals etc. while outside means that instead you can focus on things like general bike skills when you go out (handling, group riding, all that sort of thing). The trainerroad programmes are generally based around 2 or three midweek turbo sessions with a longer weekend session, which can easily be switched out for an outdoors ride.
Apart from all of the above, I still think getting a real coach is the best investment most riders can made, pound for pound, in terms ofimproving their performance. It really isn’t that expensive, there are lots around, and means you get something that is tailored around you and your life. The problem with any of these training tools is that it is easy to overtrain (and cause damage / inhibit your progression). A real, good, coach will be conscious of you training load and how it is affecting you. They will be able to tell you when to take a bit of extra recovery and rest time – this often will not be when you personally feel you should. Training is great, but you only see the gains of it with proper rest and recovery.
