Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Retul is simply a system, a
Retul is simply a system, a tool – getting a retul fit does not guarantee that it will be a good fit. The software should be able to get you close, but it certainly won’t be perfect. A good fitter will use a system like retul and then add in lots of other factors that are idiosyncratic to the individual being fitted. Depending on the fitter, the range of tools and systems they use, and any arrangements they have in place as dealers with various brands, they may be able torecommend appropriate frames.
I’ve been running tubeless
I’ve been running tubeless tyres since 2012 but have always thought that the sealants could be a bit better. I’m going to try the Orange Seal stuff – seems to get a lot of love.
If you’re wondering why I want this. Can’t seem to get on with the position drop bars put me in. I am trying a shorter stem this week which I will also flip to bring things a little closer but we shall see.Whenever I read something like this, alarm bells go off. There are more positions available for you with a drop bar than a flat bar.
What aren’t you getting on with?
The geometry of the frame may be totally wrong for you, converting to a flat bar may not solve this.Totally this.
Shortening the stem will just make the steering twitchy. Anyone riding less than a 10cm stem will feel it, unless your bars are massively wide.
While I’m mentioning bar size, are you sure yours are the correct width?
(If the problem is in the front of the shoulders, there is always the option of turning the hoods in.)
There are 3 hand positions on drops, you can get more on a flat bar AND importantly you can open up your natural arm position on a flat bar which you don’t have on a drop bar because it’s too narrow, even with a 46cm bar.
For some people having that un-natural arm position isn’t comfortable, yes of course the frame may or may not fit but you still have as many if not more hand positions with a flat bar/bar ends than you do on drops and importantly a more natural arm/hand position not to mention easier to have a more upright position.
I may be missing your point, but I think you are confisuing genuinely different hand positions for variations on the same position. A flat bar essentially gives you one position. You can widen that grip a bit or bring your hands closer together, but that’s just variations on the same position. the wrist position is essentially the same all along a flat bar. Adding bar ends gives you a second position (with a genuine different wrist position).
Drop bars have the tops, equivalent to a flat bar (you can widen or narrow your grip to give variations on that position. As a second position you have the hoods, and a third the drops. You could even argue that the transition between the tops and the hoods is a fourth position, as it puts your wrists in a different alignment.
I’ve got 28mm Pro-ones on my
I’ve got 28mm Pro-ones on my ‘road bike’ at the moment. Apart from the initial lack of grip due to whatever preservative gets sprayed on the tyres at the factory I’ve never had any grip problems with them. It probably took fifty or sixty miles to bed them in but after that they have been just as good as almost all the other tyres I’ve tried, even in the wet. Prior to the 28mm tyres I had the 25mm version, which were also fine grip wise. Every sety of tubeless road tyres I’ve tried seem to require a little bit more bedding in than non-tubeless tyres. The only tyres I’ve tried that were super grippy straight out of the box were conti GP 4000Sii which are simply not suitable as a winter tyre
On my ‘gravel’ bike I use a mix of tyres depending on the riding I’m exptecting to do. Two sets of schwalbes – X-ones for CX style riding, 35mm G-ones for more mixed riding, and a set of hutchinson sector 28mm tyres for road only riding (and wintery sportives). I’m lucky enough to have a couple of sets of wheels for that bike so I can keep them set up with different tyres. When the hutchinson sectors finally die I will probably replace them with either the 32mm model or with schwalbe G-one speeds as there isn’t enough of a different in the speed of those tyres compared to the 28s to put me off of them.
The Schwalbe G-one speed
The Schwalbe G-one speed tyres (previously called S-one) are great if you can fit them – 30mm nominal width but come up 32mm on my rims.
For 28mm, the Hutchinson Sector tyres are a good option. They are a little bit slippy straight out of the pack, but once they have worn in a tiny bit they offer great grip and are more hard wearing than the schwalbe pro-one’s.
I have a spare wheel that I
I have a spare wheel that I use exclusively for the turbo. The cassette I have on that is a much tighter cassette than the one I have on my ‘outside’ wheels (12-25 vs 11-32). There are advantages and disadvantages to this.
To start with the main disadvantage – it means that riding indoors will feel even more different to outdoors. Your gear changes won’t be comparable.
The main advantage I find is basically down to the fact that I don’t need my indoor riding to feel the same as outdoors. For me they are different things. If I’m on the turbo indoors then i will be doing very specific sessions, with specific power targets and cadence ranges. Having a much tighter cassette makes this considerably easier. Outside I need to be able to deal with a much wider range of conditions and do not have such restrictive requirements on how I deal with those conditions (having the extra gear range is more important to me outside than the ability to maintain a tight cadence range across power outputs).
I use a USE shim to fit an
I use a USE shim to fit an Ergon 27.2 seatpost to my 31.6 seat tubed boardman. works perfectly. No creaks, no slips. Helps build in a little more comfort
Personally I’m not sure it’s
Personally I’m not sure it’s worth thinking about what counts as respectable for others. TT’s are a personal battle. You will get an idea from the results of others what general ball park times are, but this won’t tell you what you should aim for or what you are capable of. You’re more likely to see good gains if you just focus on your own performance than trying to aim for something external to that (target-wise). Have a go at the distances you want to do. See what you get. Assess whether you can improve by pushing harder, by improving technique, by improving your breathing (‘good’ breathing can make a huge difference with TTing). Then try again. doing this you will quickly find your limits, which you can then work on with more specific training if that’s something you want to chase
The thread is dependent on
The thread is dependent on the frame, not the wheels. The Kurt Kinetic website has a database of frame / thru-axle requirements. According to that canyon bikes use a 12mm axle with a fine (1mm) thread. See http://www.kurtkinetic.eu/traxles/
There’s also a printable guide on that website so you can visually check what the axle that came with the bike is like.
You will need to use the right adaptors to get the canyon to fit right – take a look at the tacx website for details (as a starter, take a look here https://support.tacx.com/hc/en-us/articles/211920829-Does-my-142-12mm-axle-fit-on-my-trainer)
Boardman CX Team?+1 for the boardman, had mine just under 18 months, done Ride100, DunRun and another ~2,500 km on top of mixed Road and gravel/singletrack. Only thing I’ve swapped out is the saddle. It’ll even fit 45c tyres (just) if you want to go all-out!
Pressfit BB is the worst thing about it, I’m thinking about getting one of those Praxxis conversion jobs to stop the very slight click that has developed in the last 200km or so.
The Praxis bottom bracket thing works really well. I’ve got one on my GT Grade (Carbon 105, so out of the ride to work scheme price limit). It came as standard on the bike which just makes me wonder why they didn’t just go for a proper screw-fit bottom bracket.
Hope also do a similar thing which also works really well – got one of those on my main road bike (boardman sls disc 9.8). Press fit bottom brackets are awful so I’m really happy there are kits that get round the problem. Next time I buy a bike (not for many years if my wife has anything to do with it) I’ll do my best to avoid anything press-fit
It’s had some good initial
It’s had some good initial comments fromthe likes of DC Rainmaker. I don’t think that the early-bird units start shipping until October, so difficult to say how good it really is until it’s out in the wild on mass.
The prospect of very good battery life, strong mapping and navigation, good performance metrics, faster and easier operation than many of its competitors (ahem, garmin, ahem) are very enticing. It’s certainly not a unit for racing, as it looks massive, but if it lives up to their aims then it should be great. That’s a big if though
It seems to be at its worst
It seems to be at its worst when you have clicked through to road.cc from another site, such as road.cc links on facebook or twitter. It’s a pain in the arse. I have no problem with needing advertizing to keep revenue’s coming in (hey, its a commercial world) but the ones that push you through to the appstore everytime are really pernicious.
It should be fine to leave
It should be fine to leave the turbo specific skewer on full time. They tend to be pretty heavy weight compared to normal skewers, but if this isn’t a problem for you (and frankly, we’re talking a handful of grams) then go for it.
I use a seperate cheap wheel that I use for the turbo. The main benefit is that I can have a turbo specific tyre fitted to it, and a good road tyre on my main rear wheel. The turbo eats through nice tyres so It’s worth having a proper turbo tyre.
If you are looking to pick up a cheap rear wheel to use with the turbo, you will probably need to get one that is disc specific. The spacing of the hub tends to be different on disc specific frames, so a rim brake wheel won’t fit the frame properly.
I’ve tried cleats with no
I’ve tried cleats with no float before – great for shorter rides but even with really good set up I just can’t get them to be comfortable on longer rides.
I’ve never managed to get unclipping inwards to work. I guess I should just try harder!
Thanks for the comments. I
Thanks for the comments. I don’t really want to switch over to MTB pedals and cleats unless I really have to – I have really nice road soes that fit perfectly (I’ve got weird shaped feet so getting shoes that properly fitted felt like a special achievement) and don’t really want to have to get new shoes. May be that I need to in the end though.
I think that this is just convincing me that I need another good bike fit. My legs move differently post accident so my old fit is probably no where near perfect now, plus they’ll be able to give good advice and try a few different pedal types out.
