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How about the Charge Bikes
How about the Charge Bikes Grater Mixte http://www.chargebikes.com/grater-mixte-2/
Much lighter than most of the bikes mentioned above. The version in the link is hub geared, but there’s also a standard version
I am usually able to get my
I am usually able to get my various tubeless tyres to seat with just a track pump, but that can sometimes take a massive effort. I bought a Beto Tubeless Inflator Air Tank (https://www.merlincycles.com/beto-cja-001s-tubeless-air-tank-inflator-98943.html?utm_campaign=googlebase-GB&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=Tubeless+Accessories&ucpo=38248&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-cWl95CR2wIVBLTtCh02aAAdEAQYAiABEgJNovD_BwE) which makes everything super easy. Load that up with 160psi, then dump a load of air into the tyre in one go.
If you leave the tyre somewhere nice and warm for a few hours it will make the bead a little bit more pliable, so it should be easier to get it into position right.
Oh, and always use twice the amount of sealant that is recommended. Make sure that you’ve given the wheel a bit of a spin to spread the sealant around the tyre – helps it seal a little more quickly if its already covered the inside of the tyre.
Another trick to try is to inflate with a tube in the tyre up to the max pressure, deflate, reinflate, deflate, then try to set up tubeless.
One problem you might have is that if you have damaged the bead when getting the tyre on/off (overly agressive use of tyre leavers is the usual culprit, which is sometimes hard to avoid given how awkward they can be to get onto some rims) then the tyre might not seat and seal properly. At this point it’s relegated to being used with a tube. Not ideal, but puts you in no worse a position than everyone else using tubes
I like the diverge a lot but
I like the diverge a lot but personally I wouldn’t touch mechanical disc brakes with a barge pole. Mechanical discs are just not in the same league as hydraulic discs and I’d much rather have good quality rim brakes.
Given the intended usage I think Sora gearing will be just fine (it’s pretty sweetnowadays anyway).
Is it possible to test ride both?
If you’re an offroader who is
If you’re an offroader who is used to running tubeless, and the rims you have are tubeless ready, then I would suggest something like schwalbe pro-one tyres or the 300mm schwalbe G-one tyres if you can fit them.
Assuming the rims you have are not tubeless ready, then I’d go for conti GP4000Sii tyres, which are generally very highly regarded
With regards to the cadence
With regards to the cadence data, is this being transmitted by bluetooth or just ant? If ant, do you have the appropriate dongle so that your mobile can pick up the data?
Dump anything Garmin. I replaced my Edge 1000, worthless navigation, shut-downs etc, for a Lezyne Super Gps. 1 year in, completely satisfied. The Wahoo I think is another brilliant option. The business strategy of Garmin is to use the cheapest hardward possible to ensure that at least the product can do the basics. Add to that bug-ridden software and then look at the prices they charge. Never again will I touch a Garmin product – the Edge 1000 was by far the most disappointing purchase of my life – I still get angry when I think about it:)problem with the wahoo units is that they don’t do genuine mapping and routing. You get breadcrumb routes, but can’t reroute if you go off the prescribed route and can’t do on the fly routing. Proper routing is the thing that I said I need, so no matter how good the wahoo is in other ways it doesn’t fit the bill.
Does the Lezyne do proper routing?
You don’t need bluetooth, just plug the 800 into your phone using and OTG connectori know that’s possible, if a tad awkward, on an android phone, but I’m not sure it works with an iPhone (which I have)
Color screen or one that’s highly readable in all lighting conditions (including bright sunlight) and has a battery life of 18 hours. Hmn… Not sure it’s quite as cut and dry as you think…It’s really cut and dry, if you want a colour screen then don’t buy the Bolt…Colour screen isn’t a must have for me. Good proper navigation though is. The ability to reroute when I go off of a pre-planned route and the ability to Generate a good bike centric A to B route on the fly are te things that I am more concerned with.
I’m not really sure if these are things that the Elemnt / Elemnt Bolt can do. I’m pretty sure the Garmin 520 can’t do these, whereas the 820 and 1030 (the latter being more than I would want to spend) seem to be able to. Not sure about other makes
So, the wahoo elemnt / elemnt
So, the wahoo elemnt / elemnt bolt – does it do on the fly routing (i.e. can I pick somewhere on the map on the computer and have it give me a sensible route)?
Boatsie wrote:
Thank you. I rang the LBS and at $200 +/- to initially set up a tubeless tyre I’ll have to save some. Looks like another cycle on 28s. Happy though, remaining true. I wussed out. Bought some maxxis overdrive 38 to buy me some time to afford tubeless. Pretty stoked though. Modded an Avanti blade to suit dropbars. At 6’3 xl fits well. Supposed to be my fast bike yet big chunky will do and open up a few beat up roads. Lol. Currently wanting a fixie, seen a horizontal dropout xl blade on gum tree. Will probably miss out yet that looks perfect to set up as a fixie with same 40mm clearance frame. (Riding lots just not wanting to clean rain grime 🙂 ) Cycling is still way cheaper than driving35mm G One. I have the 40mm great tyre, quick, quiet, grippy and extremely comfortable being a big road tyreIf you’re wheels are designed for tubeless then it really is easy to set them up with tubeless tyres. You just need to put some tubeless specific rim tape on, then stick the tyre on. There really isn’t any need to pay someone to do it. Personally I normally stick a new tyre on with a tube in it overnight, so that any folds in the rim are evened out. Then just take the tube out, stick a tubeless valve in, add sealant, and use a track pump to inflate. The G-one tyres tend to go up really easily ands I’ve never needed a compressor or anything like that with them. Other tyres can be a bit more hard work.
Most of the time I run 35mm
Most of the time I run 35mm schwalbe g-one tubeless tyres on my GT Grade. They’re brilliant, fast, grippy tyres. They don’t have a particularly long lifespan, but that’s the price you pay for a tyre that is light, wide, grippy and fast.
Dave reviewed them on here back in 2016 – http://road.cc/content/review/190493-schwalbe-g-one
This gets great reviewsRavemen PR1200 USB Rechargeable DuaLens Front Light With Remote
Specifically tailored lens for commuting too.
It’s the best light I’ve ever owned…and I’ve tested a hell of lot of lights! I can’t believe nobody came up with the dipped beam/full beam and the option of controlling it from the remote switch until now.
This is website gave it a rave review (excuse the pun) and rightly so. It covers all the night riding bases and it can charge up your phone and bike computer while it’s at it. The Ravemen beats all others.
Can you charge the Ravemen up while using it? One of the things that puts me off of the Cateye Volt 1200 is that the position of the charging port would make it difficult to charge while in use
Battery or dynamo? Dynamo, pretty much any of the Gerrman lights will work tolerably well- I’ve had problems with the Luxos U, but the Supernova road specific light is ok. Battery – the Ixon IQ Premium, essentially the battery version of some dynamo light or other, is usable, although the battery compartment isn’t wonderfully built.To my mind, although these lights are generally ok, the beams are too narrow for some situations – on some bends one effectively has to ride into darkness – bit scary at times.
Battery. Not quite ready to invest in another front wheel with a good dynamo system (don’t think I could skeak that past my wife…)
Cateye Volt 1200 worth a look.The reviews section on here has loads of front lights reviewed with a beam pattern comparator.
It’s probably just me, but I find it hard to work out what the beam pattern shown on the comparator equates to on the road. The Cateye Volt 1200 for example just looks like it has a round beam – I can’t tell if I would have to have it pointing way down to not blind oncoming traffic or not
I’ve used the zip tie method
I’ve used the zip tie method on my bikes with disc brakes, and on the rear wheel of my fixie. Works fine with hard packed snow. Not so good on smooth ice as they don’t bite into the surface like the studs on ice tyres do.
Given how rarely it snows down south, it makes no sense for me to buy snow / ice tyres so the zip ties do well enough, without being great. Main advantage is that they’re super cheap, easy to put on and take off (snip snip) and take no real space to store.
If i was riding in snow and ice enough to make spending this much money a reasonable prospect, then i would rather spend it on some proper winter studded tyres
