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KiwiMike
Road.CC reviewer in “Works
Road.CC reviewer in “Works well for your use case which should suit most people / budgets, other stuff is available” shocker 🙂
KiwiMike
parksey wrote:
How do you getparksey wrote:
How do you get on with the Finn, particularly for a handset of this size? Whilst it’s only a tenner, I do have niggling doubts as to quite how robustly it will hold a £600 handset in place!Having done probably 1000k on crap Hampshire roads using the Finn mount to hold an iPhone5, a large Android phone (both in and out of a pOcpac) and the stupid-large Phablet-size Quechera one Dave reviewed a while back, I can attest that the Finn is indeed Good Enough. Basically, if you’ve hit something so hard that the phone comes out of the Finn mount, you have a lot more important things to be fretting about than an insurance claim for a mobile. Like walking / breathing 😉
KiwiMike
joemmo wrote:Easy Mike,
joemmo wrote:Easy Mike, steady and relax.http://www.ianker.com/support-c1-g95.html
.. google maps … all you need is GPS running, no data or mobile signal. It can’t give you any navigation instructions but you can at least see where you are.
Heh. Firmly 😛
Nice external bty. I have been eyeing the bike-perfected Topeak one for ages, but it’s about £50.
If you have offline maps in Viewranger (either OS or free OpenStreetMap), you can do proper nav in airplane mode. No data required.
KiwiMike
Dave, how VERY DARE YOU do a
Dave, how VERY DARE YOU do a ride of more than 35 minutes without flattening your battery, despite it not being used for ANYTHING ELSE AT ALL.You clearly are in error – only individually-laminated 1-point font Post-It notes or £10,000 Garmins are capable of doing any sort of on-bike navigation to the standards required. A member of the Non-Smartphominati will be around Road.CC Towers to commence your Education, just as soon as they work out the route, print it in nano-particle-friendly font and convert it to a file format known only to the Oracle of Alexandria for upload.
KiwiMike
Get a bike fit done. Can
Get a bike fit done. Can recommend the Specialized BG one, we paid £80 as an intro price, RRP at our LBS is £120. Spend it once, enjoy ever after. You might get lucky and never have an injury or strain, but I doubt it.Road brakes are indeed crap c/w MTB. This is why many are eagerly awaiting their descent into the budgets of mere mortals. They are already appearing on £1k bikes.
Pads make a difference. Keep them and your rims clean – Green Scotchbrite pads are good for removing crap. Different calipers might make a difference. As might new brake cables (less friction = more power to the rim).
Other opinions, possibly complete contradictions are available and will appear below 🙂
KiwiMike
Bugger.
Bugger.
KiwiMike
Dunluce wrote:I have a FSA
[quote=Dunluce]I have a FSA Gossamer chainset and a FSA External bottom bracket. Looking around the internet I see quite a few people complaining about the bottom brackets wearing out quite quickly. anyone know if this would work in its place?http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-5700-105-bottom-bracket/rp-prod50450%5B/quote%5D
Evans Cycles tech line will tell you that you must Must MUST use the FSA tat. This is a crock. They simply want to sell you £50 worth of fast-wearing cheese instead of £15 Shimano goodness.
Clean up them threads, use Coppaslip, torque it right, take care putting the spindle through and you’ll be fine.
KiwiMike
Recently swapped a friends
Recently swapped a friends FSA P.O.S for an Ultegra for about £15. Should be good for 5000k plus.
KiwiMike
I would say this, but
I would say this, but Viewranger.com is an excellent free app and online route planning tool that works on Android and iOS. You can buy the premium OS maps or download the excellent and free OpenStreet or OpenCycle maps. And set up right, you can run a smartphone for 12hrs plus on one charge, navigating all the way. External battery packs are dirt cheap these days if more time is needed.
KiwiMike
shuttvelorapide.com – sized
shuttvelorapide.com – sized for the ‘Typical UK Sportive Gent’, I am assured.
KiwiMike
Colin Peyresourde wrote:So if
Colin Peyresourde wrote:So if I’m using my phone app of Strava how does it detect where I am? I am confused because I thought that it did this on data roaming. I’ll use the app for a run, but not for a cycle.Your phone has a GPS chip that works independent of WiFi or mobile data. Having an internet connection might help your phone get a GPS fix quicker, especially if it’s been off for a while and/or you’ve flown somewhere far away. Once you have a fix you can turn everything else off. Note: some mobiles *might* turn off GPS when in ‘airplane mode’ – pays to try it first.
* Note for new-ish iPhone users: you might have to turn on background app refresh – Settings > General > Background App Refresh and check the switch for Strava is green. Turn off anything you don’t want using battery when it’s not being looked at.
KiwiMike
Colin Peyresourde wrote:
TheColin Peyresourde wrote:The data usage on using Strava (via a mobile) would be very expensive on battery life and you mobile bill. Using a conventional GPS like a Garmin is the way ahead, but I would advise the 800, 810 or 1,000…..they’re sort of future proofed in that once you upload the maps you all good to go.
Let’s kill us some Zombie Facts regarding mobile use shall we?…..
1. Using Strava does not require a mobile internet connection, at all. You sync the recorded file later on using WiFi. A Garmin needs to do the same thing, but via your laptop (which probably also needs WiFi). The smartphone I most use mobile mapping/routefinding on doesn’t even have a SIM card in it, and I’ve done several 12hr+ rides in unknown places with it no problems.
2. Recording using Strava only minimally impacts battery life – you can get 12hrs+ with a few minor settings – and as you’ve mentioned the fear of a mobile bill, you sure won’t have mobile data enabled – the biggest battery killer after a bright screen.
and: using an app like Viewranger over free WiFi, you can download massive swathes of foreign countries using OpenStreetMap or OpenCycleMap for nothing, and use them offline. If you change your route, you don’t need to go back to purchase more maps for Garmin et al and have a laptop with you to plan a route. Find some free WiFi and do it all from your phone.
See? all better now. Balance in The Force restored.
KiwiMike
“at the next set of lights i
“at the next set of lights i set off as fast as possible and damn near cleared him out with a shout of ‘hold you f£$king line’…he seemed to get it then”…just…er…wow.
This was a *public* road, right?
For god’s sake don’t let the Daily Mail see this thread.
(steps away)
KiwiMike
bikeboy76 wrote:KiwiMike
bikeboy76 wrote:KiwiMike wrote:I wasn’t taking anything out of context – I can envisage your setup exactly. So you’re right on the second white line of the ASL, and your gripe is with them riding a meter or so beyond then stopping. OK, that’s a £50 fine if the light is red. You are actually talking about RLJ. Different discussion.
Jeez you really are trying to be obtuse. Nowhere have I said I am at a ‘second’ line. I am at the stop where I should be. I specifically distinguished between these ‘hoppers’ over RLJs because they can’t get through the junction but still put themselves ahead of other cyclists even if they have just been overtaken by the same. It is this blocking behaviour I am talking about. You still seem to be under the illusion that it is something I am doing that makes people act like this.OK, fair point – let’s just call it ‘the line’ – whether there’s an ASL behind it or not is irrelevant. It’s a line you are not allowed to cross if the light is red. The people you describe are red light jumpers. £50 fine. The fact they then decided not to go much further is kinda irrelevant. If there’s no ASL it would explain their behaviour even moreso – they want to get away from the cars and into a primary position.
(noting you did say ‘Feel free to criticize my don’t-get-in-my-way/holier-than-thou attitude’ – this is exactly what it is. The infrastructure is crap (otherwise you’d have room to safely pass), and people are just doing what feels right/justifiable)
KiwiMike
bikeboy76 wrote:KiwiMike
Heh. No need to get personal there petal. I do about 6-7,000km a year in the UK and cycle in London semi-daily. Am I allowed to comment now? 🙂 I wasn't taking anything out of context - I can envisage your setup exactly. So you're right on the second white line of the ASL, and your gripe is with them riding a meter or so beyond then stopping. OK, that's a £50 fine if the light is red. You are actually talking about RLJ. Different discussion.bikeboy76 wrote:
Nice try at a quote out of context. I said "get to the next junction and stop at the light. Same biker comes cruising past..." Why would I not have already stopped at the appropriate stop line? Why would I not have already stopped in a ASL if one is available? I don't know if you ride in the UK much KiwiMike but the lights are always set back from the junction. These guys are riding past me, through the lights and stopping on the edge of the junction just as far as the traffic will allow. If your argument is 'let them get on with it' then fine, others have said that already, but you are attempting to dress this up as my mistake. I suspect you regularly get out dragged by roadies at the lights. See you next Tuesday.KiwiMike wrote:”Same biker comes cruising past” <- explicitly states OP was occupying a section of road wide enough for others to pass. There is no obligation to not utilise all space available, particular to then obtain primary position ahead of motorists - which is the purpose of ASL's that TfL et al instruct cyclists to use. -
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