Forum Replies Created
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PlanetX currently have a
PlanetX currently have a bunch of genuinely lurid Bike Ribbon tapes at 99p.
All sorted, gotta love the
All sorted, gotta love the huge tolerances of 8-speed. Wow the upshifts are loud, you could have headphones in and still hear them.
I spent almost three hours
I spent almost three hours wrapping the bars on my tourer with Brooks microfibre tape, which is around £20. Hateful stuff, but it matches my saddle and it actually comfy in use. So little stretch in it my shoulders were aching afterwards from having to keep tension on it whilst wrapping.
Found the answer – no on
Found the answer – no on shifter barrel adjuster, these are designed for a frame with downtube barrel adjusters. Outer just sits into the shifter body. Looks like I’ll need inline adjusters as my frame stops aren’t threaded.
Update: looks like these are
Update: looks like these are ST-2400 shifters, no thumb shift button.
The equivalent part I’m talking about exists for Sora – https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-sora-st3500-cable-adjusting-bolt-unit-y6vx98050/ – anyone know if ST-2400 had the same system? The dealer manual mentions it but as it covers multiple shifters it’s not clear which instructions apply to which shifters.
Can’t see how it would be the
Can’t see how it would be the BB, but check the chainring bolts are tight. It’s unlikely to be that because chainring bolt noises usually only manifest under heavy load, but worth checking. If it’s Shimano they’re accessible from the non-drive side and are either a T25 or T30 torx head.
Hmm – loose cassette lockring
Hmm – loose cassette lockring?
Not familiar with how the Ultegra RX cassette splits, could it be that everything is not snugged together perfectly on the cassette and so there’s a small amount of play between the main cassette body and the big 36 & 32 rings?
Stiff chainlink?
Stiff chainlink?
Pop the bike in that combination with it in a bike stand and slowly back-pedal the cranks – any kick from the rear mech?
Michelin Airstops. Big
Michelin Airstops. Big positive is that the cores aren’t removable, meaning that you won’t accidentally unscrew them after changing a puncture in the pouring rain on a wet December Tuesday night miles from anywhere.
Depending on your rim/tyre combination you might be better going with a 25mm max tube in a 28 – takes up less space and makes it easier to get certain tyres on the rims. I’ve got 25mms in my 28mm Bontrager R3’s – no issues so far.
CXR94Di2 wrote:
Another reason to “Ride Primary” giving yourself more space on the near(kerb) side to move into if you are squeezed. Take enough of the lane to make it obvous that there’s not enough room to try and squueze past.The problem with this approach is there are plenty of motorists who simply can’t see how obvious it is and still try to squeeze past.
I have been riding 12″ from centre (primary) for a while now. Its actually much better, very few vehicles try pass. Drivers now invaribly move over completely to the other lane to pass me.
I get very few drive by punishment passes, also the drivers who are just in a non attentive mode are broken out of it by having to slow down and think about how to get by. These second group are far worse because if you ride in the kerb they will become sheep and follow what the lead drivers does, without thought.
I will if a car driver shows respect by waiting to pass move back in a little when I deem it safe to let them by.
There is a larger safety gap to your left incase you do come across a psychopath.
I tend to do the same but in this case had drifted towards the kerb – it was a slightly uphill very gentle S bend and I’d taken the shortest line, eating my gap
I like the Balfour Beatty
I like the Balfour Beatty vans in Southampton (BB have the contract to maintain the roads, including cyclepaths). Stickers on small Corsa-sized vans warning pedestrians not to walk near the van.
Stick some G One 35mm in there. Super fast tubeless/tubed tyre.Ive just ordered 8 tyres from a german site tan wall 40mm G One allround. Ive already got the G Ones one of my bikes, but they are so good, Im fitting them to all the bikes in the family.
Im converting these to tubeless-why Schwalbe dont sell the tan wall in TLE is beyond me.
I’d assumed because the sidewall construction is different for the TLE tyre? Schwalbe and Conti have both been late to the tanwall party.
Try @re_carb in Manchester. I’ve seen him repair far worse than that, you’d never know it had been broken. I’d say the stresses of mounting the bike on a turbo is likely to have created that stress point, all you did was give it the final knock.I’ve just emailed three firms including recarb (in new mills I see, not too far away by train.) I’ve never heard that trainers can be stressful on bikes, though I’ve never used one. Do all these Zwifters know this?
I’m a heavy rider and the one time I stuck my best bike on a trainer I could feel loads more flex than I ever do on the road. And that was before I’d read the articles about it.
If you think about it, even seated you’re getting a small amount of side-to-side sway on the road. On a trainer the bike is clamped solid and all the force has to go somewhere. Elite supply a very sturdy steel QR with their trainers and specifically state that you shouldn’t use anything else.
Oh and my best bike is 931 stainless steel, not carbon. I’ve built up an old aluminium frame out of spares to use for trainer season.
Seriously, if you have the time, have a go at building a replacement frame up. £30 toolkit and access to Youtube is all you’ll need. You might even get away with using your existing cables and outers. Just get a professional to cut the steerer for you.
Loads of clearance at the
Loads of clearance at the front, but the critical point is often at the seat-stay bridge (that’s the gap behind the bottom bracket in front of the rear wheel. Can you add a pic of that (from above, standing on the non-drive side of the bike).
Maybe look at something semi-cross (dry-weather cross) like a GravelKing SK – good compromise between grip and speed. They come in 28 & 33 – to see feel real benefit you’ll want to go to 33/35 if you can. There’s loads of 33m cross tyre options – Schwalbe One All Around might be a good one too.
I’d bin it and sell the parts
I’d bin it and sell the parts, or bin it, strip it, and find a new carbon frame (PlanetX currently have the Pro Carbon for £400, or the team-issue Holdsworth Super Pro for £500). That way you get to build your bike up, don’t have to wait for a repair, and it’s brand-new with a guarantee. Vs what, £3-400 for a repair where you’re without your bike for a while.
