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Gallium is my favourite for certain locks, but needs a little more time.
Aluminium locks only?
Bit of a tangent but the kid lost the key to his flimsy bike lock, just bought a lock pick set and opened with ease! Scarily easy.Cheap locks are surprisingly easy to lock pick with only a little skill (which is my current lock-picking skill). For a laugh, I borrowed a friend’s combination bike lock (4 digits – cheaply made) and prcoeeded to try opening it un-sighted (I was told what the combination might be). Took me all of about 10 seconds and then it turned out that my friend had no idea what the actual combination was.
I like the look of the Ottolock, but only 3 digits would make it too easy. They also look susceptible to a shim attack.
Here’s a quick comparison of
Here’s a quick comparison of Fenix 5 and Vivoactive 3 Music: https://wearaction.com/garmin-vivoactive-3-vs-garmin-fenix-5
TLDR: Vivoactive 3 is cheaper, newer and more smartwatch-y whereas the Fenix 5 is more sporty.
I’ve got a Garmin Vivoactive
I’ve got a Garmin Vivoactive 3 Music watch and it can be used to track rides/walks etc. It does the usual activity tracking (i.e. steps) and heart rate data and sleep monitoring.
To be honest, I don’t actually use mine for tracking bike rides as I use a Wahoo Bolt Elemnt computer instead as that provides a handy little display as well as doing automatic uploads to Strava etc.
Here’s a review from DCRainMaker: https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2018/06/garmin-vivoactive-3-music-everything-you-need-to-know.html
Looks to me like her bikini line needs a trim.
I was thinking that it looked like an animal’s tail.
madcarew wrote:
Hawkinspeter, I don’t know where you are in NZ (obviously) but if you find yourself in the wellington region I’d be happy to show you around or arrange a ride for you. pacaraw at gmail.com
That’s very kind of you, but we’re not going that far south. We’re currently enjoying the beach in Tauranga and will be heading onto Coromandel before jetting back to cold, damp Bristol at the end of the week.I must say that you Kiwis are a very welcoming, friendly bunch.
(Here’s a friendly kiwi dog we met on the beach this afternoon)
Tony Farrelly wrote:
It’ll be a month on Monday at exactly 17:25 since BTBS and his old sparring chum Don Simon (or is it don simon?) last logged in. Wouldn’t be surprised if they were back again at round 17:26 😉
Like to think they’ve spent their time away on a tandem road trip together…but I’m guessing that’s fairly unlikely. Shame, would’ve been interesting to find out how they’d settled the captain/stoker question.
So, are you suggesting that they’re the same person?
I also would like to see them posting again – sometimes sweary and/or abusive but also some insightful comments too.(I’m currently on holiday in New Zealand where there’s no squirrels apparently, but found this pic)
StraelGuy wrote:
Do you mean Shimano allen head bolts Peter or have you found a cool alternative?
They’re Shimano xt m785 pins. They’re probably a couple of mm longer, but I can’t see that ever being an issue.
I had exactly this issue and
I had exactly this issue and mangled the screw in a very similar manner. My LBS used a dremel to get the screw out and I’ve replaced the screws (front and rear) with a hex bolt head screw instead.
First, check that their shoes
First, check that their shoes aren’t too tight as you need to encourage good circulation to keep your feet warm – maybe get a pair of shoes/trainers that are a size bigger than necessary so that they can wear thicker socks without reducing blood flow.
The next step on from warm shoes and socks is to get some overshoes to keep out the wind (most trainers won’t be airtight as that’ll increase the foot smell). There are overshoes designed for flat pedal MTBers – something like the Endura MT500 overshoes might do the trick.
I think what you are discribing is precisely the main disadvantage of disc wheel! Sorry for not being of much help!Not really – this is a problem with a crap retaining pin/screw. I’ve never had a problem with a normal retaining pin that doesn’t screw in.
I started off with using a
I started off with using a phone app which was fine for a while – start your ride, pop your phone in your pocket and you’re good to go. However, that doesn’t let you see time/speed etc whilst you’re riding.
I got a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt last year and it’s superb. Works a treat with connecting to other sensors (which are also Wahoo as it happens) and it’s got more battery life than I’ll ever need (12 hours?).
If only someone had warned you…Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess
Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………
The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.
I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.
I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).
Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.
I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.
Fair point well made!
Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.
Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.
You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.
I had it the other way round – the rear was fine and the front seized.
I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.
I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there’s a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.
I wouldn’t mind if I was Mr Universe & I’d put too much force through it but I’m certainly not!
Wondered if a very very thin layer of grease would be any good on the screw / bolt although obviously being very careful not to contaminate the pads or rotors. To be fair that wouldn’t have helped when I was clearly too heavy handed with the head…….
I tried putting WD40 on it and leaving it overnight and it made no difference. As far as I can tell, they find the softest metal possible to make the slotted heads – in fact, it wouldn’t surprise me if it was silver painted butter.
If only someone had warned you…Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess
Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………
The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.
I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.
I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).
Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.
I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.
Fair point well made!
Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.
Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.
You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.
I had it the other way round – the rear was fine and the front seized.
I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.
I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there’s a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.
ibr17xvii wrote:
Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess
Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………
The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.
I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.
I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).
Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.
I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.
If only someone had warned you…
