Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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I’d go for topping up sealant
I’d go for topping up sealant. Sealant tends to last approx 3-6 months after which it’s either plugged loads of small punctures or dried up. The only real problem from having too much sealant is that your wheels will be heavier and maybe a bit sluggish if you’ve got pints in there (generally you want about 40ml sealant per tyre on a road bike).
I take a plug repair kit with me (only used it once) and a valve extender so that if there’s an unsealable puncture I can use an ordinary inner tube (due to the deep rims though I carry a long valve inner tube anyway). Also, tyre levers and a CO2 cartridge for quick re-inflation (and a pump for when the CO2 is gone).
I’ve already got a pair of
I’ve already got a pair of their standard pliers and have used them a couple of times and they work fine for squeezing/separating quick links. The 8-bit pliers have the same ends, so they should work just the same.
What I really like about them (which was why I popped down £70 on them) was the 4mm bits and driver which are obviously smaller and lighter than the standard 6mm bits I was carrying around. However, I then bought a 4mm-6mm converter so that the 8-bit pliers can interface with my 5Nm Topeak Torque bit.
The 8-bit pliers include the tiniest metal valve core remover which actually works really well and is attached magnetically to the other side of the space for a pair of quick links.
I’ve now got way too many multi-tools than is decent to own.
(As an after-thought – I now have no use for the standard pliers so I can send them on to you if you’re happy with some pre-used ones. Mine are black with a green pivot)
The only reason I can think
The only reason I can think of for removing a master link while on the road would be if it had broken but inserting one is more likely e.g. chain snaps at another link, remove using chain tool and insert spare master link to rejoin.
I’ve found it easier to use link pliers for removing and installing a chain whilst at home, but as you say, they’re not essential.
Anything’s a drive-thru if
Anything’s a drive-thru if you drive poorly enough
I reckon the diameter
I reckon the diameter measurement is more flexible as there’s more rubber involved. If you’ve ever inflated an inner tube lots to find a tiny puncture, then you’ll see just how much bigger than 700c an inner tube can grow.
The main issues are if you use a smaller tube then you may get more punctures and if you use a larger tube it may be a bit harder to fit in the tyre and will be slightly heavier.
Welsh boy speaks the truth –
Welsh boy speaks the truth – get the Giant.
The solution is to use a JIS
The solution is to use a JIS screwdriver, and no I don’t have a photo. Try it yourself on your bike and you’ll see what I mean.
I’m assuming you have fixed the problem by now, but if not, can ask as a general question…. is this something that is experienced regulary on bikes?In the main there are two reasons why a fastener head becomes damaged, when its tightened up in the first place and when its being undone disregardless of the quality of the fastener.
Depends on the bolt.
It’s unusual to round off headset bolts as they shouldn’t be done up tightly and hex bolts don’t normally have as much of an issue with rounding off.
Now, rear derailleur adjustment screws are a different matter as they’re typically JIS screws and almost everyone uses a cross-head/phillips screwdriver which almost, but not quite fits.
They don’t hold as much as an
They don’t hold as much as an ordinary seatpack (which is why I got the large size). On their website they go through what each size is designed to contain – I can’t be bothered to copy it out here.
My problem is that I prefer it to seatpacks, but it’s not quite wide enough to fit my pump in (an iPump Twist: https://www.ipump.jp/product/ipump-twist/) and to make matters worse I’ve gone and bought a Wolf Tooth 8-bit Pack Pliers: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/tools/products/8-bitpack-pliers which also don’t fit (brilliantly designed tool though). I’ll have to stuff them in my top-tube bag instead.
To be fair, there have been
To be fair, there have been some forum posts which look like they’re adverts, but they’re usually for slightly dodgy companies. Being a first post makes it more suspicious.
I’ve got an Aeroclam myself (the large one) and I largely agree with what you said, though my stuff did rattle a bit until I cut out some foam inserts to prevent that. Also, I was impressed with Cyckit’s speed of delivery to the UK and though I didn’t require much customer service, I got the impression that they’re a small, friendly company that care about their product and customers.
I was wearing some merino
I was wearing some merino wool socks and Northwave Arctic shoes (which are waterproof) but I suspect it may be something to do with blood circulation.
I’ve seen that bug too –
I’ve seen that bug too – editing or deleting forum posts doesn’t currently work.
To be fair, the owner did
To be fair, the owner did have the dog on a lead, though whether it was fit for purpose is debatable.
I’m surprised that the cyclist(s) didn’t stop – I would if I’d just hit a dog as usually the owner isn’t too far behind (whereas cats deserve what they get and good luck trying to find a cat’s owner).
All my experience comes from
All my experience comes from doing things wrong and often breaking things.
I’ve been looking for your
I’ve been looking for your forum post as that had more info than my initial one and have just found it: https://road.cc/content/forum/246664-disc-brake-noob-tips-please
Funnily enough, I went to replace my brake pads at the weekend and the front pad pin was very stiff (i.e. almost seized), but the hex head did its job and I was able to use a bit of force to undo it.