Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
OSMAND is a good navigation tool – downloads open source maps to your phone (they are quite but files mind) so that you don’t need 4G signal to load them when out in the countryside. Can also load a route via a .GPX file which you can create beforehand in Strava or Garmin connect and get it to give you turn by turn instructions.
Thanks gonedownhill 🙂
I like the idea of the open source maps, especially as I have limited data allowance on my phone so it would be very useful to be able to download the maps first.
Much better than waiting for google maps to load for those of us with a poor sense of direction and it will work where there is no reception at all – I got my location on OsmAnd whilst on Rum in the small isles in Scotland. Isn’t the most user friendly app though I must say.
GPS still works with mobile data switched off btw – if you go out into the sticks where there is no signal it phones tend to use a fair bit of battery up just constantly hunting for a signal in my experience.
OSMAND is a good navigation
OSMAND is a good navigation tool – downloads open source maps to your phone (they are quite but files mind) so that you don’t need 4G signal to load them when out in the countryside. Can also load a route via a .GPX file which you can create beforehand in Strava or Garmin connect and get it to give you turn by turn instructions.
I use ETA, although
I use ETA, although fortunately haven’t claimed with them. They seemed to have similar rates to other insurers. Think I pay £230 a year for 2 bikes, one worth £1000 and another £1600, and that is on a new-for-old basis. For my more expensive bike I’d built it up myself from a 2nd hand frame so had to pay my LBS a small fee to get it valued (it’s actually insured for twice what I paid for it due to getting a real bargain on the frame!).
Thier website is pretty explicit about what circumstances need to be met for your claim to be valid which is why I went for them. They are also pretty easy to deal with online only – you can for instance send them a photo and the details if you buy a new lock and they will store them on their system and reply to say that it is valid for your particular bike (eg any bike over a grand needs a sold secure silver rated level lock). They also encourage you to send photos of the bike and how you lock it.
As is common with bike policies if you want to leave it somewhere >12 hours then it’s not vaild (there is a relaxation of that rule for train stations) and they pay out a reduced rate if nicked between 1-4am I think, which I think is a bit shit for the price you have to pay, but I guess insurers have to pay out a lot on bikes.
I agree with club smed –
I agree with club smed – something with slightly wider tyres than an out and out roadbike is better for commuting on in bad weather and poor roads.
This is on a black friday sale still – hydraulic disc brakes, mudguard and pannier compatible for £700:
Take a debit card and a note
Take a debit card and a note instead of your whole wallet and you’ll be grand.
If you have bike specific insurance they usually include some sort of ‘get me home’ thing in event of mechanicals, although not sure if they would pay out for what is essentially a puncture.
Cycle Rescue: breakdown cover for bikes
The ETA were the first to offer a recovery service for cyclists, included at no extra charge when you take out bicycle insurance. If you are unable to complete a journey due to a crash or mechanical failure, we will pay for the transportation of you and your bike from any road in Britain, with an average response time of 39 minutes. We will take you and your cycle to a railway station, cycle repair shop, back to your car, home, or to alternative accommodation – whichever is nearer. Should you require cover in the rest of Europe, you will need our Cycle Rescue stand-alone policy.
Just read the comments and I
Just read the comments and I must say they add up to a pretty intelligent discussion when compared to the stuff you get in the Bristol Post!Bob Jackson frames are about
Bob Jackson frames are about £550 off the peg and go up to 64.5cm.
Cheers for your response. I had terrible judder witht he BB but concluded this was due to the bending of the rotor by a single piston caliper. As our esteemed colleague comments above he thinks it is the shape of the edge of the rotor the waviness going in and out of the pads, I’ve heard and read this before. I do have a carbon fork though I will say I don’t really get front brake judder with my HY-RDs though only a sort os high pitched singing or a low pitched raspberry blowing noise which I would maybe think was contaminant of some sort, though I cleaned the rotors really well..Hoping continuing to bed them in will help with power.
Gonedownhill – do you have to pull your rear brake lever almost right to the drop bar to get the full effect of the brake?
They have quite a lot of throw in the levers compared to a rim brake but there is still at least 1cm between the lever and the bars when the brake it fully engaged. From what I read at the time of installing the best way to get get a shorter reach is to get the TRP bleed kit and top the reservoir up with mineral oil which I think TRP endorse. Otherwise I saw a guy on a forum do a hack and flip the cable clamp on the brake caliper around to get a bit more leverage, but that requirs you to file a little groove into the body of the caliper which isn’t ideal for the warranty!
From what I understand of disc brakes a bit of screeching comes with the territory. Personally my rear brake is faultless and it’s my front that has the judder which I have just learned to live with now.
Got to say I was a little bit underwhelmed by these brakes given their excellent reviews, although having never used disc brakes before I may have been expecting too much and as I built the bike myself it is possible I didn’t do everything completely correctly.
Thread here on topping up the brakes (see Andy K posts) and the cable clamp hack
http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/overcharging-trp-hy-rd-brake-system-894815.html
So consensus is that KMC 11
So consensus is that KMC 11 speed ones are reusable in practice then? Because their advice is that they are not.
I also have the HyRds. I can
I also have the HyRds. I can’t comment from experience on compressionless vs non-compressionless but when I asked a mechanic about whether I needed compressionless ones he said they aren’t necessary and that I should just use the Shimano outers that came with my 105 groupset – don’t seem to have any problems with power.
I too get a bit of pulsing/judder with my front brake, did wonder if the disc design could be causing it but decided they wouldn’t design them like that if it caused a problem. Perhaps I was correct to wonder, might be worth trying replacing that rotor as they aren’t very expensive and I guess I can eventually use the old rotor to replace my rear where I have no judder. I guess the judder is to do with flex in carbon forks?
Pinnacle Arkose perhaps? One
Pinnacle Arkose perhaps? One of the 2016 models has the TRP hy-rds and latest Tiagra.
Whyte Dorset also has TRP hy-rds and Tiagra I think.
Almost all Croix de Fers have TRP Spyre brakes.
The London Road with full hydraulic SRAM for £999 looks unbeatable value to me, bit over budget but worth it.
If you’re using Google maps you have to download the map data whilst you’re out on your ride which takes ages and probably won’t work in the sticks, whereas with osmand you already have the maps loaded into your phone and all it has to do is the GPS bit.You can save Google maps data to your handset so that it works without a data connection. Zoom the screen to the area you want to save, then type “ok maps” in the search bar.
That’s cool didn’t know that. If you are doing say a 60 mile ride and do this at a scale big enough to fit the whole ride on does it also save the detail you’d need when you want to zoom right in?
Also seem to remember you can’t load a route into google which is a bit annoying if you want to put a circular route in rather than use one of google’s own calculated routes – they do have a bike option on them to avoid motorways though which is cool.
If you’re using Google maps
If you’re using Google maps you have to download the map data whilst you’re out on your ride which takes ages and probably won’t work in the sticks, whereas with osmand you already have the maps loaded into your phone and all it has to do is the GPS bit.If you want turn-by-turn
If you want turn-by-turn instructions and have an android phone then you can do it for free.
1. Create a route in strava or garmin connect or whatever will allow you to save it as a .gpx file
2. Download OsmAnd app for free – this is an open source map program which you get 10 free maps with, you can get a map of the whole UK as one download although it will take up about 500Mb of storage on your phone.
3. Open OsmAnd, load the .gpx route and turn the navigation on. You can follow the route overlaid on the map and also have audio instructions (might need an ear piece in to hear properly though).
Pros are that as you have the map already stored on your phone you can see where you are no matter how far away from a 4G signal, and the GPS itself hardly uses any battery so you can go as remote as you want and not have a problem.
Cons are that it’s not the most intuitive app ever and took a little bit of messing about with it for me to get the voice commands. If you want the map displayed on your handlebars you’ll need to get a mount for your phone and having the screen on all the time might cane the battery. Personally I usually have some idea of where I am going so don’t need it for every single turn, and I don’t really mind stopping to check whether I’m lost.
