Forum Replies Created
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How long’s a piece of string?
How long’s a piece of string?
Unfortunately gearing can be very variable depending on who you ask and fitness levels. There can then be a few different ways of achieving the gearing depending on preference, for example: my summer bike is 11 spd and 50/34 at the front, 11-27 at the back which helps me tackle long/lumpy rides…my steel frame bike is 53/39 and 13/29, which is fairly similar. Some folks I know need an easier gear at the back and ride 50/34 with 11/30, or even more.
Old school for references is actually best in that you convert to inches (just the distance a wheel travels per crank turn) and then see what your options are. Fortunately there are some great online tools to help…and changing a cassette is easy with the right tools but big cassettes may need a long cage derailleur!
Have you a reference setup that you have tried? Failing that, most folks will go Compact (50/34) with 11/30. Give something like that a go. If it doesn’t work then you can use an online tool to see what works for your preference (bigger or smaller gears). EBay always works well for effectively swapping without a big hit on cost.
If there is not enough
If there is not enough tension on the cable then it won’t get to the outer limit, as set by the H screw. See if you can set the H limit properly. Remove the chain, try pushing the mech across with your hand. Note where it stops and then adjust the H stop so that it is perfect. Pop the chain back on…next up is getting the tension right and mech angle but, as stated above, there may have to be a compromise somewhere.
Don’t forget to use any barrel adjusters if you need to but don’t try to increase tension under load, always shift down first…adjust…shift up…repeat.
“In the UK every year, almost
“In the UK every year, almost 6,000 people die in home accidents and 2.7million visit their local accident and emergency departments seeking help.”
On that basis, going out for a sensible ride seems to be a good thing to do as it lessens the overall risk/impact to the NHS.
If you want authentic and
If you want authentic and comfortable then it might be worth looking at a Selle San Marco Regal Girardi. They do crop up on fleabay and come in different colours. I used one for many miles but eventually swapped for a simple Charge Spoon as they look similar and cut a chunk off the weight.
Personally, I think that HR
Personally, I think that HR is one of those things that have become over complicated just because it is technically possible to do so…along with increasing the price. Just list the features that you must have and then which ones you would like to have and I reckon it would be a small list. I used the basic Garmin HRM for years and it ticked all the boxes on my list for about £25. The strap finally died this year so I replaced it with a Wahoo Tickr for £40. It is comfortable, light, good battery life and tells me my HR reliably via my Garmin 500. It seems to offer a few more features via a Wahoo GPS device but I don’t have one and don’t need them.
My point is, don’t overthink it ?
If you are getting 4-5000
If you are getting 4-5000 miles per pair then you aren’t doing too badly. The problem is that there is always a trade off and harder tyres tend to feel very wooden and can often be heavy whilst offering poor wet weather performance. If you place durability/puncture resistance above all factors then Schwalbe Marathon (Greenguard or Plus) are the way to go but don’t expect to feel much zip. Failing that, why not look at a new set of decent training tyres a few times a year as a pretty small outlay?? Plenty of cost effective options like Vittoria Rubino Pro, Conti Gatorskins, etc.
If it doesn’t feel right then
If it doesn’t feel right then sell it now and save an unproductive 6 months fannying around until you come to the same conclusion.
Stack and reach are not everything, but as near as dammit..
It’s not the best time of
It’s not the best time of year to buy new wheels since they will wear much quicker in the crappy weather…and you won’t feel any benefit of a wheel 200g lighter when you are wearing half of your wardrobe and grinding away against a headwind.
Why not just replace the worn bearings in your current wheel/set, a little light lube in the freewheel…and then look at new wheels in March (perhaps extending the options to include handbuilts and Hunt).
The Raceblades are only the
The Raceblades are only the best of a very poor second choice. They do attach/remove easily but suffer from a major flaw which is that they leave the brake bridge exposed. This means all the crud gets dumped around the brakes to form a perfect grinding paste and wear out the rims. If the OP has mounts then I would get some decent guards and then fit/remove twice a year.
At this time of the year it
At this time of the year it is about choosing whether you want to get the clothing wrong at the start of a ride…or at the end of it!
Merlin are a decent bunch so
Merlin are a decent bunch so don’t fret too much and just cover the basics. Don’t go mad with an allen key unless you have a good idea of the right torque. I think many beginners cause problems by getting a bit carried away with tightening things until they hear a crack…and then backing off one turn!
Check things like brake alignment and clearance, bar setup, tyre pressures, etc. The seat will need adjusting, etc. Finally, just be sensible on the first ride out, so an easy 5 miler, preferably flat with a few shakedowns as your confidence grows. Don’t be surprised if the gearing needs a tweak…and don’t be afraid to ask Merlin if there is anything that they have left to the rider.
Chill, get to know your bike…and then give it a damn good thrashing ?
My 10 Bob’s worth is that you
My 10 Bob’s worth is that you are correct in that there is no missing spacer. 11 speed hubs don’t need a spacer for 11 speed but do need a spacer for 9/10. I have 9, 10 & 11 speed setups and this rule of thumb works on all of them. 12 speed uses the same width as 11, just smaller gaps and a narrower chain.
A missing spacer would leave a cassette with minor wobble resulting in mis-shifts and running noise, not really just rattling over rough ground. I would check the wheel and see if there is excessive movement across the axle, if not then your rattle lies elsewhere.
Why not just pick a nice dry
Why not just pick a nice dry day and a clean/tidy route with a couple of lumps and then do an A/B test and see what you think?
Many thanks for all the
Many thanks for all the comments, plenty for him to think about ?
One thing to be aware of is
One thing to be aware of is how the wind can affect a lighter rider with deep section wheels. The modern profiles are a big improvement on the old V profiles but they can still be an issue on a gusty day. I am 65kg and have found that 40mm (Fulcrum Quattro) is a good sweetspot but even they can suffer with a front wheel wobble when passing a hedge gap in a strong cross wind. Last time it happened I was going about 45mph downhill, caused a little heart flutter to be sure!
Another thing to consider about carbon is that it doesn’t really make sense in midwinter, chewing up the rim with muck and crap with no discernible benefit. Swapping wheels is a good option then but don’t be tempted to keep the same pads on as embedded alu rim flakes will shred the carbon rims next time round.