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45 comments
Just fitted michelin power road tubeless.
I'm guessing it is the dt wheels that were the issue as it was the worst one I have done.
In the end I had to use an inner tube to get one side on, then tease on the other by hand to get it to seat. Seemed to have use a lot of fairy liquid too.
All the others I have just used a track pump with little or no teasing or fairy.
I fitted my surly dirt wizards last weekend, mud specific and a pig on tarmac, doable. When I put a new front on over the summer I needed to retape the rear, discovered I had two and a half wraps of tape, which explained the impossibility of moving the bead and the deafening noise when popping in place. Removed all and replaced with one and a half, wrapping being a nightmare of course. Tyre popped on with much less terror and no need for the soap, and I had some scwalbe stuff specific for the task too. Changed the tape off the front, after removing a wrap last year and found that the lbs had used Lecky tape, little more flexible and big dents in the spoke holes, but nice to know, understandable as 50mm tape is very specific. Might even use a bit on the valve hole under the tubeless tape to add a little more strength, later.
It is a learning experience and I can now laugh at hedge cutting season.
Haha! I had to read that twice to work it out.
Honestly, keep going with it. I can't count the amount of time I've been covered in latex sealant (hookless rims) or have returned to a set of wheels with deflated tyres.
Its a labour of love but one that will definitely pay off.
Remember to shake and rotate and all will be well.
I'm wondering if part of the problem is Stan's sealant - never used it myself, but I've heard more than one person on here complaining about it.
CaffeLatex for the win!
Success!
Well mostly. Front is up and not losing air overnight. Rear lost about 30 psi from 50psi starting point but was still inflated. I put Stans on the out side of the bead on the front so will try that on the rear when I get more sealant. I guess I need to get it properly air tight or the constant topping up will reduce the life of the sealant?
Thanks for all the helpful comments esp Squirrel Legs 👍
How do I feel about tubeless? Well this has been more hassle so far (by far) than any other system I've used, and I run latex tubes on a winter bike and glue tubulars on my best bike so it's not like I'm afraid of a bit of work 😀
Here's hoping it's all worth it in the end!
We are the road.cc Borg...
Yeah sorry, conflated squirrels and sparrows 🤣
2 wraps of Muc Off tape, Muc Off valves, Orange Seal Endurance sealant. Has sorted me out and takes absolutely ages for the tyres to deflate (I'm running some Gravelkings of some description in a 38). Spin the wheels periodically after installing and make sure that sealant coats everything.
Now, this may seem a stupid question BUT are the tyres tubelss compatible? I'm not familiar with them.
I love tubeless, never had any issues with them other than when I bent a rim, and even then it would hold air for a day. Even my GFs decathlon bike with cheapish wheels are fine.
I'm very much a fan of tubeless, once set up, I've found they work. I'd guess I have a success rate of over 90% when setting tubeless tyres up.
However, in the last week I've purchased a set of Panaracer GraveKing Slicks; the front went on fine, and held air, so in went the sealant, and it's still up. Repeated the process for the rear; and wasn't going up, hmm? Added another layer of rim tape, and it stayed up for about an hour. Added the sealant, and left it overnight; the next morning it had deflated, and isn't holding air when trying to pump it up. Weird......
Welcome to my world! It's usually the rim tape... but could be the valve seating....or then again the interface between the rim and the tyre
I can't keep up with all those Panaracer variants with almost identical names... Are these a Halloween special edition?
I've run 28mm tubeless tyres since 2015 when I bought my first set of Hunt wheels and Scwalbe Pro One tyres.
I've never run anything lower than 75 psi (been as heavy as 100kg, now 85kg) and currently run 90 rear, 82 front (Michelin Power Road TLR 28mm on Hunt 48 Limitless). I've only ever had 1 puncture when I was using some Veloflex TLR tyres (superb tyres but not winter resilient) and this was easily fixed with one of the worm things. Turn the wheel so the sealant interacts with the worm/puncture, wait 5 mins, blast with co2 and then carried on for 20 miles home.
I've had maybe 10 sets of wheels since then and double the amount of tubeless tyres (I'm a confessed wheel/tyre whore) and only ever run in to issues with Specialized Roval CLX 50 wheels. They are a complete dog of a wheelset. No matter what I did I'd come back to them and not only would the tyres be flat but due to the crappy tubeless design the sealant would have leaked out and the tyres would be in the centre channel. I got rid sharpish.
In my experience it all comes down to the quality of the components being used, if they have been designed to the latest ETRTO standards and if you're willing to put a little effort in to getting them set up perfectly then tubeless just cannot be beaten. Yes, sometimes, like in my earlier reply, you need to faff a bit but that's an extreme example.
There are just too many variables using tubeless tyres, and I have four sets of wheels waiting for them to wear out: valve seating, tyre seating, (in) compatibility of wheel rim and tyre hook, gettting the tape to seal, viscosity of sealant, drying out of sealant when you finally have a puncture....and if the sealant has not dried out or the puncture is so serious it warrants an innertube anyway, then you're covered in the shite anyway.
I'm bored of it and can't be arsed to describe some of the many travails I've suffered. They are great when they work. Terrible when they don't.
What size tyres and pressure though?
A tentative view is that it doesn't work very well for high pressure or less than 32mm tyres.
I'd tend to agree on pressure 70 psi is a good upper limit. Disagree on 32mm - 28 is fine.
Tyres always specify their pressure range, particularly the upper limit. Surely tyre sealants should do the same? It seems obvious that there must be an upper pressure beyond which the sealant can not be expected to work (and possibly a lower limit too?)
I've no experience of anything over a 28mm tyre - though most of my bikes are old so run on 25s - but intuitively I agree with you. They're run at 70-80psi - enough, it seems, to force most of the sealant out through any small hole regardless of viscosity.
Interestingly, the pressure limits on the 5000TLs are the same as the 4000s.... so the manufacturers don't think that it makes a difference.
I put 32 as they seem to have a lower max than any 25/28s I have had (and you have to factor in the minimum too).
Reading previous articles and topics, lower pressures work better.
Would be worth an article by road.cc on it with more data, as what I have read previously is only a straw poll of views/experiences.
running 28mm Pirellis at 60psi, no issues. Remember that removing the tube allows you to drop pressure for the same tyre size because a) some of that pressure is taken up stretching the tube b) you can't get a pinch flat.
and then there is TSS where there is no tyre hook and the only interface between rim and tyre is on the paralell inner rim wall.
You need wider tape. 24mm is recommended by hope. If you think about it the bed is 20mm straight across but the curve of the inside means when it is applied it's effectively wider..if the 20mm is well stuck apply on top. Good luck
Yes, it's ordered. First attempt was with the tape that came with the wheels though. Thinking about it if the rim is 20mm at the bead hooks it's likely 22mm across the base of the bed and effectively a couple of mm wider again when taking the well into account. Stretching the tape will also make it narrower so fingers crossed 25mm will do it.
Thanks!
My Pacenti rims are 20mm internal and Pacenti recommend 25mm tape. I always give it two wraps to be sure. Once the tyres have seated (a different battle...) they've always stayed up.
Also someone mentioned MucOff sealant, I think that is universally considered to be the worst of the lot! Too thick to distribute properly.
I'm surprised no-ones yet mentioned running a bead of sealant around the outside of the tyre after fitting but before inflating. Watch the video on the hunt website.
Sometimes it just takes a couple of tries. My latest Hunt / Schwable Pro One combo took 3 reseats and and about a month of running in before the losses dropped to 2-3 psi per day. (from 70). Seems to stop around 40.
And people say latex tubes are a faff! 😀
I did two years on latex tubes and only went tubeless after a run off bad luck with Hawthorne clippings and paper thin race tyres.
I can report I've had just as many (well, just as few) punctures tubeless as I had with latex tubes. Basically I reckon if your tyre is soft enough that you can bang your rim then you're just as likely to pinch the tyre as you are to pinch the tube!
TBF these are my 3rd set of tubeless wheels and none of the others were that much of a faff.
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