Disc pad recommendations

Jack Osbourne snr wrote:

I have Spyres on my primary commuter and use Disco Brakes sintered pads.

I ride 14 miles per day from one side of Glasgow to the other all year round...

How are they for noise (when wet)? What rotors do you use?

Sorry to repeat my question from above, just looking for as many opinions as possible before I spend any more money trying to stop mine squeeling in the wet.

Ta.

IanEdward wrote:

Jack Osbourne snr wrote:

I have Spyres on my primary commuter and use Disco Brakes sintered pads.

I ride 14 miles per day from one side of Glasgow to the other all year round...

 

How are they for noise (when wet)? What rotors do you use?

Sorry to repeat my question from above, just looking for as many opinions as possible before I spend any more money trying to stop mine squeeling in the wet.

Ta.

There is no silent braking just get used to it, this is down to simple Newtonian Physics Energy Friction Dissipation Heat and Sound. Brakes create friction they boil the water, creating bubbles/steam creating vibrtations which then resonate through the acoustic amplifier that is your wheel...or so it was described to me.

For instance I'm using Super lightweight rotors, aftermarket pads and XTR (Dura Ace) brakes on sub 8kg Mountain bike they howl like a mother fucker in the wet...proving it's not how much money you can throw at them. You can mitigate it to some degree by slightly dragging your brake to scrub off water before grabbing hard but I never bother I like the sound my wheels make.

IanEdward wrote:

Jack Osbourne snr wrote:

I have Spyres on my primary commuter and use Disco Brakes sintered pads.

I ride 14 miles per day from one side of Glasgow to the other all year round...

 

How are they for noise (when wet)? What rotors do you use?

Sorry to repeat my question from above, just looking for as many opinions as possible before I spend any more money trying to stop mine squeeling in the wet.

Ta.

If you're commuting in the wet, they will make a noise. Even a tiny amount of contamination prolongs the squealing, so riding in wet weather on roads covered in crud from cars will result in noise.

You just need to live with it.

What you can do though is, as you approach a set of lights, brake gently to clear the water off pad and rotor, release and then brake hard, to actually stop at the lights... As if  you were breaking in the pads. Repeat as often as you like.

This will cut down on the noise, but if it's wet you won't eliminate it entirely as more cruddy water will land on the rotor and pads. 

On a mountain bike in a forest, there are no large concentrations of minute hydrocarbon particles to deal with nor are you likely to be using mudguards which can result in more of said particles dripping onto pads and rotors. In my experience, this is what makes a difference noise-wise more than anything else outside of poor setup.

Rotors? I have Avid GS2 and the TRP rotors that came with the Spyres. I can't tell the difference between them.

With Spyres, I recommend using one of the pad setting tools available such as the Birzman Clam or the Hayes equivalent. Uneven pad contact will make discs squeal like F@(k !!!

Jack Osbourne snr wrote:

 

You just need to live with it.

 

Booo, that's a shame, the squeel bothers me so much I've found myself instinctively letting go of the levers or just avoiding braking altogether! Must have sensitive ear drums.

Will stick with rim brakes I guess, shame so few frames can take them these days... 

IanEdward wrote:

Quote:

I fitted Swissstop green pads to my Spyres from new

How do they behave in the wet, quiet? What rotors do you use?

Am considering replacing pads and rotors on my Spyres, they're great in the dry but screech like banshees in the wet.

I fitted Shimano XT rotors - excellent, no noise at all, wet or dry.

mike the bike wrote:

You're not going to like this and, to be honest, I don't much like it myself.  But after using cable discs for about ten years, and blindly defending them to all comers, I bought my first hydraulic bike about a year ago and the difference is literally night and day.  In every respect, except cost, the hydraulics are superior....

I agree - I've been carrying out almost weekly faffing on my TRP Spyre mechanical brakes for about 2 years since I bought a winter/commuter/gravel bike. In that time I've replaced the cables (and outers) twice, the pads about 5 times and I'm still expecting to have to do it again before too long. The extra few hundred quid for the model with hydraulic brakes seemed too much at the time, but I've probably spent that and sworn a hell of a lot since. One major problem is water/grit/grime getting into the cable outer, especially on the rear brake which on my bike runs along the chainstay and the cable exits the housing in an upward bend, so anything which gets in there just sinks in and clogs it up. Each time I've removed the rear cable it's almost rusted. 

It was when it snowed and I borrowed a mountain bike with hydraulics that made me realise how rubbish mechanical are: much more feel and graduated braking. Cable ones just grab but you're always wanting more grip/control.

I can't figure out why you have to spend at least £1200-£1500 for hydraulic brakes on a cx bike, but even the most entry level £500 mtb comes with hydraulic ones as standard.