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6 comments
Brill! Thanks for all your help chaps, nice one Ruklaw - you would think TRP would do an official version!
Some helpful chap did a guide here:
singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/psa-trp-spyre-rebuild-guide
That's always done the trick for mine.
Thats great thanks chaps, that video was really good. good tips on there about greasing the piston.
What about the moveable "arm" on the calliper, that swings to and fro does that not need any lube/grease at all?
I found with mine that the arm itself doesn't seem to need any lube but the pistons definitely needed to be removed and cleaned up. Mine were corroding and resisting the pushing action of the arm. I also cleaned out the body of the caliper as best I could. Even after all that the action doesn't feel exactly smooth when I operate the brake by hand but is much better at the lever than it was.
Mark.
dont know about the spyres specifically but I doubt theyll need much more than clean and lubricating. The main thing it will benefit from is new cables and housing, if you fancy it the compressionless housings add more power to your braking, ive just fitted some jagwire ones to my CX bike and its loads better with my Avid BB7
You've done well to last 2 or 3 winters without maintenance - I have a pair and I've replaced the cables and pads about 4 times in the past year. The mechanism is pretty simple, and replacing the pads and cables (and the outer if you can) will make them pretty much good as new, but you might not need to do that.
With the pads and cables removed you might want to give the body of the brakes and the piston a clean - isopropyl aclohol is recommended (don't be tempted to use any kind of oil based cleaner!). The discs themselves should be ok, but a quick wash and dry/rub with a fine sandpaper works wonders.
This video is about hydraulic brakes but apart from the bleeding the cables bit it's useful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Eqd9kuQHLE