- This topic has 79 replies, 33 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 5 months ago by
mattsccm.
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December 26, 2017 at 6:46 pm #27951
road
Hi and merry Xmas to everyone. I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike. I’ve also got some money to spend so I would like a really nice bike even though I’m not a pro. In particular, I’m liking the Pinarello Dogma F10 X-Light but as a noob I virtually have no idea where to begin selecting some components.
I know I want a Dura Ace groupset though I’m not sure which one. Dura Ace wheels, probably tubular, but again not sure whether to go for C40/60. I’m leaning towards C60. Pros/cons?
I also need to pick other components but don’t know what to get. Could someone identify for me the components used on the X-Light on the Pinarello website and also on Chris Froome’s bike if there is a difference.
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mattsccm
I’ll be polite but blunt.
I’ll be polite but blunt. Ieeing as you know your motorcycles I’ll ask this. Would you recommend a Ducati 1199 to some one just going for their CBT?
Thats what you are doing.
Nice to have the cash but you need to see what works for you first. It could be the “best” in the world but if it doesn’t suit your riding its crap.
MrMajic
part_robot wrote:That said (and note this is my personal opinion) expensive bikes are for mugs. They make absolutely no difference to all but the most elite athletes. No. Difference. The bike industry – just like the hifi industry – prays on selling fantasy benefits to people (particularly men) on the autistic spectrum who hope it’ll somehow help them get a KOM on Strava and who obsess over the benefits of 50g saved on a £300 saddle.I disagree, every time I’ve upgraded a bike it’s been quicker. Whether that’s down to deep section wheels, a more aerodynamic frame, longer gearing and possibly a smidge of the placebo effect I’m not sure but I think it’s wrong to suggest that the same person would make the same pace on a £1,500 bike vs a £9,500 bike.
For the OP: I built up a foil premium last year with the same spec as the “off the shelf” version for less than half the price, including bike shop cost to put it together. I think such a bike shouldn’t really be a first bike, but if money is absolutely no object then I suppose why not?
alansmurphy
Part Robot, you understand
Part Robot, you understand bikes far better than the autistic spectrum. Please don’t confuse a middle aged man that likes his tools in the correct order with somebody with autism…alansmurphy
don simon wrote:
don simon wrote:I’ve taken inspiration from this thread and decided that 2018 is the year that I get organised and start a project to get myself a hyper-bike.
Ideas on where to start?
Vodka infused with Skittles!
part_robot
OP: this makes no sense
OP: this makes no sense whatsoever. If you don’t know what bike you want why would your first one be the most expensive you can find? Better, just get something around the £1000-2000 mark and learn what you like and don’t like about it. Upgrade, change, get a proper fit whatever and then plump for something fancy when you have at least a reasonable amount of experience and insight.
That said (and note this is my personal opinion) expensive bikes are for mugs. They make absolutely no difference to all but the most elite athletes. No. Difference. The bike industry – just like the hifi industry – prays on selling fantasy benefits to people (particularly men) on the autistic spectrum who hope it’ll somehow help them get a KOM on Strava and who obsess over the benefits of 50g saved on a £300 saddle.
Don’t be one of them. Get something awesome at a good price and put the remaining £8000 into training hard enough to woop the ass of anyone on a Dogma. If you want validation of your self worth – as these mega purchases so often intended – there’s no better way to feel good about yourself than that.
BikeJon
I would advise against
I would advise against expensive equipment until you are more experienced. Newbie riders tend to hit the tarmac more often, have silly incidents (e.g. lean their bikes up against walls and scratch them) and don’t know how to look after/clean their equipment properly (e.g. know when parts need replacing or adjusting). Have you even used clipless pedals before?
Learn all this stuff on a cheap bike. Even a grand will get you a decent bike these days.
I used to race and won quite a few races (including a couple of national championships) and the bike I ride around on the UK roads these days is a custom Ti frame with cross geometry, Ultegra Di2 and 28mm tyres (when used on tarmac). I’m not interested in superbikes as they wouldn’t suit the riding I do. I have no problem with people buying whatever they want but that would be my advice nevertheless – to learn before you invest and make an informed decision. I’ve only really learnt to look after my equipment in the last 5 years after joining a club in 1990! YouTube (GCN) is a great resource for picking up tips.
don simon fbpe
I’ve taken inspiration from
I’ve taken inspiration from this thread and decided that 2018 is the year that I get organised and start a project to get myself a hyper-bike.
Ideas on where to start?
Anonymous
My bad with title. I’m not
My bad with title. I’m not looking to actually build it myself just more less researching and selecting the components myself with some input from others. Eventually I will try and locate a quality bike shop.
I also have another question that’s come up. Some people have told me that the local roads aren’t well suited to a full on road bike but I don’t think they’re that bad. They’re not experts either. So I know it’s probably hard to describe but if you could give me an idea of what would be bad for a road bike.
EDIT: Nevermind the question about the roads. I’ve just seen that they hold races locally so they must be alright.
Miller
Can I have a go too?
Can I have a go too?
Assuming OP is genuine, I’d suggest he buys a complete bike. No offence but he sounds beginner-ish and assembling a bike from a frame and a stack of components is not a task for the inexperienced especially when a mistake could be expensive.
Walking into any high end bike shop and saying you’re interested in an F10 or similar should get you someone’s undivided attention.
sergius
jrg91 wrote:Thanks for the replies.So what are your thoughts on electronic shifting? I’ve heard it’s very good until you have a problem.
It’s amazing. I’m never buying another (good) bike without it.
Yes, mechanical works works “fine” as well, but:
– I never have to adjust the indexing on my electronic gears
– I never have to deal with cable stretch, or replace cables at all
– The auto-trim on the front deraileur is nice to have, I find it really annoying now on my winter bike (mechanical Ultegra) when compared to my best bike.
Touch wood, I’ve had no issues with my Di2 system in 2.5 years / 13000 km.
Anonymous
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
So what are your thoughts on electronic shifting? I’ve heard it’s very good until you have a problem.
Charlie-CarbsAndCycling
Get a power meter as well its
Get a power meter as well its the best way of objectively showing how good you are and if you are getting better. It is also incredibly useful to pace yourself. A power meter is defintely worth it no matter what your level.
sergius
Unlike almost everyone else
Unlike almost everyone else here, I say why not! If you can afford it then why not treat yourself to a amazing bike.
I do second the point about bike fit though; I’m about to buy myself my fourth bike in 4 years or so, each one being progressively more expensive than the last. Once you’ve many 1000’s of km under your belt, you know what works for you etc. While it would of course have been cheaper to jump straight to my planned 40th birthday present – there are other benefits to having multiple bikes (winter bike when the weather is shit, endurance/relaxed geometry bike for those 100 mile days in the saddle) which I consider well worth paying for.
The main consideration for me at this point is what size Aeroad I need, and whether the position is too racy for me to live with. There’s a world of difference between what is comfortable for a quick pootle around the block versus four hours on the bike. I think that only spending hundreds of hours riding will give you this insight into your own capabilities. Being a Canyon it’s a lot more difficult to try before you buy (although the Bike Live thing in London looks well timed for me).
Were I in your position, I’d probably spring for a very nice (but not superbike level) Canyon Ultimate CF SL 8.0. You’ll need to do a lot of miles to outgrow a bike like that. Depending on where you are, you can try one out at the Bike Live days as well
Beecho
Chris Hayes wrote:I think you guys are being far too kind with your advice here….might be xmas spirit but my take is that this is a wind upAre you B2B Chris Hayes? If so, hello mate!
drosco
Buying a pro spec bike doesn
Buying a pro spec bike doesn’t make someone a pro. Just get something with Ultegra, upgrade the wheels and enjoy riding rather than focusing on kit. -
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