Building a super bike

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    Topic
  • #27951
    road

    Hi and merry Xmas to everyone. I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike. I’ve also got some money to spend so I would like a really nice bike even though I’m not a pro. In particular, I’m liking the Pinarello Dogma F10 X-Light but as a noob I virtually have no idea where to begin selecting some components.

    I know I want a Dura Ace groupset though I’m not sure which one. Dura Ace wheels, probably tubular, but again not sure whether to go for C40/60. I’m leaning towards C60. Pros/cons?

    I also need to pick other components but don’t know what to get. Could someone identify for me the components used on the X-Light on the Pinarello website and also on Chris Froome’s bike if there is a difference.

Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 79 total)
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  • #908533
    0
    Canyon48
    jrg91 wrote:
    I am “naturally” slim: 177 cm and around 60 kg. I work long hours including weekends which is why my fitness has taken a hit over the past couple years though I think it’s been coming back well with the cycling I’ve been doing and want to keep it up and build up to doing even more. Currently I’d say I’ve been doing around 8 hours a week, not sure about distance and speed though I do a fair bit of climbing.

    You shouldn’t have much issue getting good on a bike then, given your build.

    If you are set on a superbike, then certainly look at new Dura Ace 9100, you can fit an 11-30t cassette on that. As for whether you want a compact 50/34 or mid-compact 52/36 chainset, that depends on how fast you ride and how much climbing you do.

    You wouldn’t go far wrong with something like this https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/2016/ultimate-cf-sl-7-0.html Great bike with plenty of wheel and groupset opportunity.

    #908531
    0
    Anonymous

    sour much

    🙁

    sour much

    #908529
    0
    rjfrussell

    “but as a noob”

    “but as a noob”

     

    One “o” too many, one “k” too few.

    #908527
    0
    Anonymous

    Yeah well I’m really liking

    Yeah well I’m really liking cycling. I’ve never really enjoyed doing things on my own before but with cycling I find I don’t mind at all.

    #908525
    0
    fenix

    8 hours a week is probably
    8 hours a week is probably more than most hobby cyclists.

    #908523
    0
    Anonymous

    I am “naturally” slim: 177 cm

    I am “naturally” slim: 177 cm and around 60 kg. I work long hours including weekends which is why my fitness has taken a hit over the past couple years though I think it’s been coming back well with the cycling I’ve been doing and want to keep it up and build up to doing even more. Currently I’d say I’ve been doing around 8 hours a week, not sure about distance and speed though I do a fair bit of climbing.

    #908521
    0
    Chris Hayes

    Someone delete this thread.

    Someone delete this thread.  And stop encouraging him.

    #908519
    0
    Canyon48

    Buying a full on race bike

    Buying a full on race bike should come with a health warning; if you are over 80kg then you’ll look a bit silly on a race bike (unless you have a physique like Marcel Kittel’s or Andre Greipel’s).

    Seeing as you’re after a bike very similar/identical to Chris Froome’s, might I recommend the following?

    https://www.facebook.com/FullProKitW/

    #908517
    0
    Canyon48
    Chris Hayes wrote:
    I think you guys are being far too kind with your advice here….might be xmas spirit but my take is that this is a wind up

    Yeah, seems like one. Although, worryingly I’ve met a couple people at my LBS (Clifton – posh part of Bristol) who have said they are “getting back into cycling” having not ridden in years, and shell out a few thousand on race bikes…

    jrg91 wrote:
    You’re all beginning to sway me away from the F10. I had already considered, as some have mentioned, that it may be more enjoyable in a way to start out with less and gradually build up.

    I kind of like Specialized as well, in particular, I think maybe the Allez would be a good bike for me but I guess it might all depend on my LBS. Although I have also considered traveling to pick up a bike and then have maintenance done at the LBS as I learn to do my own.

    I really wanted the bike to start taking my training seriously and so I was thinking of getting a power meter, HR sensor etc. But someone advised against that at this point. What do the rest of you think?

    If you haven’t done much cycling, seeing as you described yourself as a “noob”, then neither a power meter nor an HRM will make a lot of difference for a while.

    First thing to do is put in the miles and shed a few kg.

    To be honest, unless you are dead set on racing, there isn’t much point with a power meter. As you’ve said you aren’t very experienced – you won’t be racing for quite a while.

    To give everyone a better idea of what you might need; how far do you usually ride, how fast do you usually ride, how much do you ride, how much do you weigh and how tall are you?

    If the answers to the above are; 10miles/week, 12mph, rarely, 96kg and 175cm then the type of bike and training you will want are vastly different to the type you’d want if the answers were; 200 miles/week, 20mph, every day, 65kg and 175cm…

    #908515
    0
    jaysa

    We need to know more really .

    We need to know more really …

    You said: ‘I’ve decided to take my cycling more seriously after a few months on a relative’s bike.’  Great, but at what exertion level? Pootling, raised pulse or harder?

    Do you know what you most like to do yet? Off-road, city centres with hard cornering, solo high intensity work, hill climbing, canal paths?

    What level of fitness have you achieved so far? Do you stretch regularly, and how aero a position are you able to sustain?

    Meanwhile, don’t get a custom build until you can answer much of that.

    If you must splash the cash now, get something that looks nice in the January sales. You’ll get a solid discount, and you can test ride it first. All the parts will work together properly and will be warranted. Plus when you resell it, you’ll lose less money.

    Get a bike fit to find the stack and reach that work for you now, knowing these may change a bit as you get stronger and more flexible.

    A super-stiff bike can give a harsh ride, and if you’re not low at the front and/or carrying some weight, your privates and back will tell you all about it.

    It’s fun to have and ride a superbike, but you can have a lot of fun on something much cheaper.

    My daily driver is a SuperSix Evo non-HiMod, bought new for £770, plus £500 on narrower bars (narrow shoulders), 130mm -17deg stem (my bike fit), saddle with cutout (woman-shaped), seat post (less road vibration), Ultegra calipers (better modulation than Tiagra), brake blocks (ditto) and tyres (road-holding).

    I also have an ex-Pro Tour Bianchi which is a dream, but is really not worth loads more.

     

     

    #908513
    0
    Chris Hayes

    I think you guys are being

    I think you guys are being far too kind with your advice here….might be xmas spirit but my take is that this is a wind up

    #908511
    0
    fenix

    Oh and if your planning on
    Oh and if your planning on racing don’t race what you can’t afford to replace.

    #908509
    0
    Jimmy Ray Will

    As mentioned, is suggest tubs
    As mentioned, is suggest tubs are beat saved for racing.
    If you have the coin, I’d suggest going for disc brakes. This will future proof your ride and just provide a better experience.
    If you do this, you have to go Shimano di2 as everyone else’s hydraulic shifters look gash.
    Money no object, go dura ace di2 with discs, but I’d suggest the new ultegra will still deliver a beautiful ride and bike.
    The discs will also open the option of going carbon tubeless on the wheels. This is the answer. Superb fast and comfortable rolling, great puncture resistance and basically the best of all worlds.
    Finishing kit is personal choice.

    #908507
    0
    fenix

    You don’t need a superbike to
    You don’t need a superbike to take training seriously.
    A £500 bike can let you train perfectly well. Wasn’t the BBAR champs bike 2nd hand and under a grand a year or two ago ?

    Spend maybe a grand on a decent bike and get to see what you like or dislike about it. Then it can be your winter or bad weather bike when you decide what you really need on a bike.

    Personally I’d not ride tubs again and I’d go etap.

    Pro bikes aren’t necessarily the best but they’re paid to use them.

    #908505
    0
    Liam Cahill

    From your original post I’d

    From your original post I’d advise against tubulars for anything but racing. They don’t puncture much, but when they do, you’re stuff unless you have a team car with spare wheels.

    I’d repeat the advice to avoid a full on superbike intended for racing. The geometry isn’t the best for people that don’t spend a fair amount of the year on a bike. If you do, or are going to, then go for it. But keep in mind that Pinarello do the GAN RS, which is a little more relaxed in fit.

    Dura Ace is beautiful so if you’ve got the cash, do it. Pro components is what Sky use and they’re also really nice. We’ve tested a fair amount of their stuff.

    But the biggest piece of advice is to go to a shop and get them to fit the bike to you. They can then tell you all about the gearing you’ll need for the local terrain. They’ll also talk you through what components would be best for you.

    I should also point out that I’m rather jealous!

Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 79 total)
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