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I cycled that road a lot. You
I cycled that road a lot. You need to be out in primary otherwise you’ll get squeezed as the road narrows outside the pub. Due to the camber of the road its easy to drift onto or inside the chevrons for the pedestrian crossing and then be faced by the kick out of the pavement line the other side of the church entrance. Road is barely wide enough for an HGV so if they haven’t seen you there’s absolutely nowhere to go. Bloke driving was from Stockport so might not have been familiar with the road layout.
As a driver I’ve almost hit a cyclist there due not getting past before the road narrows, bloke came up my inside quite quickly because its slightly downhill from the roundabout.
We’re getting to the earplugs
We’re getting to the earplugs and just ride stage now 🙂
The mech hanger one is a good suggestion, it ties in with my comment about back-pedalling and checking for rear mech kick as that’s a good mechanical check for an out of alignment mech hanger.
What happens if you put the
What happens if you put the bike on the stand with the chain on the largest cog at the rear and largest at the front and then back-pedal? Any kick from the rear mech? That combo puts max stress on the drivetrain and can show up a B-screw tension issue. Unlikely to encounter it when pedalling forward so really clutching at straws but rule it out..
5 foot 11, all saddles at
5 foot 11, all saddles at 73cm
What’s more important for sell-on potential is whether the steerer is uncut or not. If I’m looking for a used bike first thing I check after the nominal frame size how much steerer is available. Anything else is cheap to fix (new seatpost, stem, bar width, etc.). Yes I now a steerer looks fugly with a load of spacers above the stem but without that adjustability available any potential buyer is factoring in a replacement fork.
Net, around £1500 I reckon.
Net, around £1500 I reckon. All highly justifiable – sold my CX so I could use a tagalong and so bought a tourer. Then found that the tourer was a bit unwieldy at times so built up my old rim brake frame with a mix of spares and new parts.
Now toying with finding a Ti frame to replace on of those (probably rim-braked – some good deals to be had from people “upgrading” to disc frames.
Once my son is too old for a tagalong I’ll build up the frame I’ve got for him in the attic and probably go down to a single do-it-all Ti frame – might even end up being a 29er or something like the Genesis Vagabond.
Are you doubly sure you’ve
Are you doubly sure you’ve ruled out the chainring bolts and ring interface? Road.cc reviewer and all round mechanicing beard KiwiMike reported something similar a couple of months ago that was to do with the chainring interface. Could you borrow a chainset to rule it out?
Front mech cable contacting
Front mech cable contacting wheel/rim? Outside chance but if its a long arm one (e.g. 5800, 4700) then it can do it. Mine (which I must shorten up) is only about 5mm from the rear tyre.
Ditto for rear mech cable although that’s even less likely
It was an odd fit for Mango,
It was an odd fit for Mango, suspect there is more to it than meets the eye. What’s left is being relocated to the Sheffield area, not sure if there is a link up with Planet X in the offing.
The issue to me seems to be
The issue to me seems to be space. There was a report in Bikebiz last week that one of the dockless hire firms intends to deploy 10,000 bikes in London. Where the hell are they going to put them all without blocking pavements and using up racks.
We have them in Southampton and I do see tourists using them (expecting a lot more next year as they didn’t launch until the autumn). What’s particularly good is that they’re managed and serviced by a local bike shop so that should at least create some local employment.
Kinesis CX disc? £375, 1720g
Kinesis CX disc? £375, 1720g the pair
http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Wheels/Cyclo-Cross/CX-DISC-v5
Campy, 12mm thru, adapters for standard QR too.
Or trim off 200g and go for the RL version for an extra £75
Any SRAM or Shimano caliper
Any SRAM or Shimano caliper will work fine. Campys would require an inline barrel adjuster fitting.
No experience with SRAM rim brakes but Ultegra or 105 are hard to fault, even with stock pads.
First couple of weeks is
First couple of weeks is going to be hard. First ride I was knackered after less than a mile, three rides later I was OK for 5 miles, and in 3months I was up to 20-milers no problem.
Different tyres will help, as well getting your saddle to the right height (that was the biggest revelation for me – a huge difference in effort). If you’re starting out its probably too low as that’s typically what an inexperienced rider will do to feel safe.
Are you used to SRAM shifting
Are you used to SRAM shifting? I had it for a while (Force group) and absolutely hated it. Constant fettling of front mech required and unreliable shift response from the levers, particularly in winter gloves. Brakes on this are also pants.
You could probably build your own from bits off eBay for less. Frankenbikes can be cool (my dry bike is a parts bin special) but usually only when you’ve built it yourself…
Think we’re more likely to
Think we’re more likely to see eTap Force or eTap Eagle XX before an update to Red. And SRAM are pretty focused on 1x drivetrains so maybe 12 speed Red eTap.
Also eTap prices are so firm and supply is pretty short so I doubt there’ll be heavy discounting. Not much arriving the used market so you’ll get a good price if you feel you have to upgrade
The easiest gear on any road
The easiest gear on any road bike is likely to be much harder than the easiest gear on your MTB. However, road bikes tend to be more efficient position-wise as you usually climb whilst seated and you’re not lobbing the bike from side to side. Saddle height makes a huge difference to power output and I’m guessing your MTB will have it lower overall than you would on a road bike.
It might be that you’re built to put out power rather than to spin like crazy. Whilst I’ve got a 1:1 (well, 34:34) gear combo I find that I don’t use it that much, the sweet spot for me is around 34:30 – lower cadence, higher power requirement. I also know I can bail quickly to 34:34 if I have to which gives me more confidence to stick with a longer climb.
