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Tink Sound NOT Creak

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  • December 7, 2017 at 2:59 pm #27906
    Mark E.

    Lots of info on fixing CREAKS.

    My sound is a TINK usually on a power stroke on either 50/34 chainring on the (larger) lower cassette gears. Standing or sitting. Nothing while coasting.

    Fuji 1.1D Aluminum Frame @1000 miles.

    I have managed to eliminate all creaks, Stuck with the TINK noise which I guess to be a drive train generated sound. “I get” aluminum frames resonate.

    Lately after many hours of troubleshooting, I have lubed, tightened chainring bolts and contact to spider. I have my in tube cables secured. I have done the seat post check and checked the QR on the rear wheel. Stem and bars all torqued to specs. Chain is newer. BB is a remote maybe as my mechanic thinks it’s good.

    Can my chainrings be cracked or flexing. Both of them? Praxis Works. How can I tell?

    Not willing to spend on new ones as I have read of those that have and end up with the same problem.

    Any ideas?

     

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 34 total)
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  • December 11, 2017 at 5:28 pm #907347
    0
    kil0ran

    Are you doubly sure you’ve

    Are you doubly sure you’ve ruled out the chainring bolts and ring interface? Road.cc reviewer and all round mechanicing beard KiwiMike reported something similar a couple of months ago that was to do with the chainring interface. Could you borrow a chainset to rule it out? 

    December 11, 2017 at 4:42 pm #907345
    0
    PRSboy
    turboprannet wrote:
    cable end cap from front mech on the crank arm? I’ve had that.

    I had this too.

    December 8, 2017 at 11:07 pm #907343
    0
    SellMatt

    I had this problem and spent

    I had this problem and spent a whole ride getting on and off not quite understanding what the problem was. My tink was a loose cleat screw

    December 8, 2017 at 9:44 pm #907341
    0
    Ratfink

    Have you tried adjusting the

    Have you tried adjusting the front mech? Might sound  a bit silly but i spent ages trying to track down a tick on my old giant bike,it eventually stopped after i set the limits slightly wider (just a tad) and fiddled around with the barrel adjuster.That was a triple though.

    December 8, 2017 at 8:56 pm #907339
    0
    Mark E.

    Thought I was  fixed.  Nope. 

    Thought I was  fixed.  Nope.  Went on a 0 degree temp test ride, with flat bottomshoes on. expecting no Tinking.

    Was OK  for about 5 mins. Then sound is back. Maybe even worse. Tried most everything mentioned. Chain and BB is all that is left. Sound seems like it’s on the right

    BTW Oval 520 crank. Never fooled with one of those yet.

    Stepping back for awhile as I am fairly pissed.

    Can I pour some beer on the Crank area for giggles?

    December 8, 2017 at 8:56 pm #907337
    0
    Hedgemonkey

    Had the most annoying tink
    Had the most annoying tink sound on my Whyte, replaced bb and spent ages checking thru the drive train, regreased, retorqued etc. Seemed to do it when the right pedal was on the down stroke. Eventually traced it to the front wheel QR, it really did sound like it was from the BB.

    December 8, 2017 at 8:13 pm #907335
    0
    andsaw

    Try checking your chain for

    Try checking your chain for broken end plates, i had more of a clunk than a clink but mine is on a carbon bike and could sound differently on ally, i knew mine was drivetrain related and thought it it had something to do with the rear wheel , took me a few days to track it down and took out the offending link and  put in a quick link and problem solved.

    December 8, 2017 at 11:31 am #907333
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    Mark E.

    Still at it. No luck yet.

    Still at it. No luck yet.

    December 8, 2017 at 11:05 am #907331
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    FatAndFurious

    You say on the “power stroke”

    You say on the “power stroke”. Is that on both pedals, or just the one? If just the one, which one?

    I’ve had a “tink” when the right crank was brushing past the front mech cable. The cable then pinged back as the crank passed, dinging against the downtube.

     

     

    December 8, 2017 at 10:47 am #907329
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    turboprannet

    cable end cap from front mech

    cable end cap from front mech on the crank arm? I’ve had that.

    December 8, 2017 at 10:40 am #907327
    0
    Sniffer

    I had a ‘tink’ going on when

    I had a ‘tink’ going on when I pedalled.  Took me a while to work out that the outside of my front mech was just being touched  by the crank arm.  Even when re-adjusted the SRAM Red mech and the Cannondale crank have a very small clearance.  It is even more of a pain in that the limit screws seem to move occassionally.

    Hope you find yours.

    December 8, 2017 at 10:23 am #907325
    0
    kil0ran

    Front mech cable contacting

    Front mech cable contacting wheel/rim? Outside chance but if its a long arm one (e.g. 5800, 4700) then it can do it. Mine (which I must shorten up) is only about 5mm from the rear tyre.

    Ditto for rear mech cable although that’s even less likely

     

     

    December 8, 2017 at 10:10 am #907323
    0
    Anonymous

    Have you checked that the

    Have you checked that the rear mech is not touching a spoke, as you say it is in the larger sprockets?

    It may not show up in the stand with no load if this is the issue, as when you are pedaling, the wheel will tend to deflect and the drive side spokes can bow out slightly under load. 

    It could be an out of line mech hanger or mech cage.

    December 7, 2017 at 6:24 pm #907321
    0
    Simon E

    If it’s consistently

    If it consistently coincides with a pedal stroke (is it just on one side?) the most likely is chainring, BB or the pedal itself.

    Mine (square taper FSA chainset & BB, SPD pedals) does it sometimes but I CBA to do anything about it just now.

    December 7, 2017 at 5:35 pm #907319
    0
    Mark E.

    Thanks. Got some time today.
    Thanks. Got some time today. Will try some more possibles. No extra rear wheel.

    More ideas welcome.

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