Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Possibly East European with a
Possibly East European with a name like that? Did Hungary ever have a bike industry?
Rochelle’s got great
Rochelle’s got great knowledge but she annoys me almost as much as Carlton Kirby. Too much hyperbole and shouting. Perhaps better as a studio pundit than a colour commentator
simonmb – Of course, I expected to be subject to the inevitability of Muphry’s Law. s/,/./ I’ve been an Internet dog for 40+ years, so I recognise text based slang too.If you was on teh Internet 40+ years ago, you would of had to invent it, innitroflmao.
“ARPANET adopted TCP/IP on January 1, 1983, and from there researchers began to assemble the “network of networks” that became the modern Internet. The online world then took on a more recognizable form in 1990, when computer scientist Tim Berners-Lee invented the World Wide Web.”
Bit short of 40 years! There were earlier versions of networking computers but I wouldn’t consider them to be the internet as we know it today.
Prestel? Minitel? Both (just) over 40 years old
Mudguard eyelets on CAADXs
Mudguard eyelets on CAADXs have been a bit hit and miss for a while – I’d double and triple check you can get guards to fit the tyre size you want to run.
The fork mount might be under the crown – called a fork daruma. Basically a threaded insert in the bottom of the fork that is a direct mount to the guard (meaning you have to precisely drill the mudguard, which is a faff if you’re DIYing). It comes with a removable seat stay bridge so no issues there.
(I was all set on a CAADX 2016 model but the above faff put me off – I was intending self-building and buying second-hand so wouldn’t have had LBS support)
Stock wheels won’t be anything special, but therefore ideal as winter wheels. I’d stick with them – but ditch the tyres for something like a Conti GP 4Seasons (they’re available in 32mm from memory)
Schosche Rhythm+ (or 24) –
Schosche Rhythm+ (or 24) – wear it on your upper arm just under your jersey sleeve. Super-comfy, very adjustable strap, and you get all the benefits of optical HR without wristband – which don’t always work that well for cycling. Works well with both my Edge devices (25 & 130). Currently on sale at Halfords of all places for £60
There’s a good DC Rainmaker shootout here
(FWIW he’s recommended the Scosche for years, but has changed allegiance to the new Polar strap in this latest review)
It’s a no-brainer for me
It’s a no-brainer for me (Green Commute) but I’m a higher rate tax payer. Seriously considering getting my employer to join so I can get an e-cargo bike to replace one of the cars. I could spend £5k on something like a Tern GSD for £80 a month. Just need find a suitable safe route to my son’s school.
If the problem has only just appeared and the shifting was ok originally then I won’t be mechanical adjustment of the Low and High limit screws. Before you start playing with these, if the shifting was ok at one time then try cable tension, after all, how likely is it that the limit stops have moved themselves?More likely than limit screws (if it’s not tension) is that the derailleur has taken a knock, particularly if it’s a band-on one.
If you pull the cable
If you pull the cable manually (assuming you’ve got external routing) will it complete the shift? If so then it’s definitely tension.
Wind out the barrel adjuster half a turn at a time with the chain on the 3rd-to-biggest sprocket and try the shift again. Repeat until it’s clean. If you run out of adjustment, wind the adjuster all the way back in, then half a turn out, then disconnect the cable and reattach. Pay attention to which side of the pinch bolt the cable enters as that’s critical to a clean shift.
Barrel adjuster will either be on the frame near the head tube or near where the cable exits the bar tape. If it’s on the frame double-check you’ve got the correct one as some bikes get set up with the cables crossed (i.e. front mech cable runs to the right hand side of the frame)
If it is tension it won’t need much adjustment if it completes the shift on the smaller cogs. Half a turn and repeat until it’s clean.
Unless someone has fiddled with the limit screws the only other thing it might be is that the derailleur has taken a knock and got slightly out of alignment. Fixing that is a bit more involved – read the Shimano dealer manual (assuming it’s a Shimano FD)
Depends on your level of
Depends on your level of fitness. How did you feel after 25k?moorsey72 wrote:
Wheels fitted and ready for action!Nice – how silvery/chromed are they? They’d be a great match for my Bowman Layhams (lots of exposed stainless steel) but photos don’t seem to do them justice. Are they sort of gunmetal grey?
Man, their website is shite. Not enough pictures of the racks in use, no real guide to fitting. Not even many words explaining how they work. Oh and full of typos.
This
This
Plus a towbar rack from Atera, Thule, or similar
All in that’s going to cost you around a grand, alimony might be cheaper…
I’ve got an Atera Strada DL3 which is absolutely brilliant – tilt and slide to give access to the boot, takes three bikes plus a fourth on an adapter so plenty of room for, erm, expansion.
In my case I’ve extended Rule 25 by making sure that the rack cost more than the car
https://photos.app.goo.gl/R6rjjKMMpN6xweRH6
I like my bike to be utterly
I like my bike to be utterly silent, pretty obsessive about it if I’m honest. My Vision 35s are clicky-clacky, I resolve that by never freewheeling 😀
When I returned to cycling a few years ago I was out for a quiet pootle when this lycra’ed adonis came flying by on a downhill section. Thought it was a motorbike at first, then assumed he’d fitted spokey-dokeys for some reason.
Is there are point performance-wise to a loud hub? Is it that they’ve got more/stronger pawls so they engage quicker?
Cassette alignment? Does it
Cassette alignment? Does it need a spacer? The Hunts will be 11-speed wheels. Not familiar with Chorus – how many speeds?
The derailleur kicking when back-pedalling points to a stiff link or an alignment issue, as you’ve ruled out the freehub pawls with the cassette test off the bike.
Pop the wheel in, leave the QR unlocked, and pop the bike back on the ground. I find that gravity does the best job of aligning the wheel and making sure it’s centred in the dropouts.
How old is the Rourke frame? Did it slide easily into the dropouts? Wondering if it’s a frame spacing issue.
More to this than meets the
More to this than meets the eye. F1 sponsorship is rarely cheap, even for a midfield team, and the drink appears to be rarer than unicorn sweat. Where’s the money coming from? Peckham Spring anyone?
