Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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5800 series and above will
5800 series and above will easily clear a 28mm tyre, if your frame is compatible. 5800, R7000, R8000 all mid-drop calipersThe Merida is only thru-axle
The Merida is only thru-axle on the front, and it’s a somewhat obsolete 15mm axle – most drop bar bikes have settled on 12mm front and rear. Might cause an issue for wheel upgrades in the future.
The Mud Wrestlers are
The Mud Wrestlers are horrible tyres, swapped mine for GravelKing SKs as soon as possible. So many punctures with the Mud Wrestlers, even on the road
That Merida looks well looked
That Merida looks well looked after – it’s had new bar tape at some point but everything else on that bike is as it left the factory. Chainset is RS505 46/36 – 105-level chainset for CX.
Was always a lovely, well-finished bike, and I actually preferred the look of that chainset to the stock 105 version.
By the way, for fitting mudguards there’s a mount under the fork crown to direct mount the mudguard. The stays attach halfway up the fork. A bit fiddly as a DIY job, if you’re going to use mudguards get your bike shop to fit them.
I had the Merida, fantastic
I had the Merida, fantastic bike. But yes, no rack mounts, and only cable discs. It was a genuine do everything bike – I commuted on it (15-25 miles a day), rode it on sportives, and even did RideLondon on it. Lovely ride, probably my favourite bike. Only sold it because I didn’t want to be associated with Merida following the Bahrain sponsorship.
If the CGR is cheaper, it’s definitely a better spec in terms of wheels and brakes. What chainset does it have? The Merida was a proper CX bike so was 46/36 – I’m guessing that the CGR will be a 50/34. Not that I ever spun out on the Merida but might be a factor.
It’s pretty easy spotting the
It’s pretty easy spotting the downward looking drivers – just look for eyelids. A friend of mine worked on eye-tracking research years ago, when it was being used for stuff like laying out retail stores and tracking which packaging designs got attention. I think this is perhaps the most practical approach to handling distracted driving – automatic warning or slowing the car if your eyes aren’t on the road.
Difficult to tell without
Difficult to tell without knowing the seat tube and head tube angles of the two frames, or the stem angle.
If you have those details (or can find them) then this may help
Redvee wrote:
The shifting action of a R7000 front mech is an improvement on previous front mechs I’ve used.
Yeah it’s a big improvement. I’ve got a 5800-badged one of these on my best bike. Set and forget, reliable, easy shifting. Very impressive.
Deepreddave wrote:
Almost certainly a tension issue. Should be a single click.
You need to increase the tension by screwing out the barrel adjuster (caution – be careful not to unscrew it completely from the derailleur – that way lies the risk of stripped threads and swearing)
If you’re out of adjustment using the barrel adjuster then wind it all the way back in, then back it out 1 full turn. Once you’ve done that you need to detach the cable from the derailleur pinch bolt and tighten the cable by yanking on it (or use a third-hand tool if you must). Then its just a question of tweaking the barrel adjster on the mech until you get reliable shifting.
Small moves of the cable tension barrel adjuster are required in order to do this.
For further info see this manual
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RD0003-09-ENG.pdf
You need the section on SIS adjustment (Page 14 onwards)
What does it mean by lever gap?I think what they mean is take up any slack at the lever – gently pull it towards the bars until you feel slight tension. Makes it a two person job so I’ve never bothered. If it’s dropping as you push harder on the pedals just add another half turn of tension on the mech barrel adjuster
11 speed systems do have fine
11 speed systems do have fine margins and sometimes it’s impossible due to frame geometries to get everything working smoothly – some frames are more tolerant of cross-chaining for example. Probably more of a challenge to get the front mech set up than the rear though.
But it does sound there was simply not enough tension in the cable to begin with, or perhaps it has been routed the wrong side of the pinch bolt, or the housing isn’t the right length. Basic stuff that should be checked before it goes out the door of the LBS though.
Deepreddave wrote:
Thanks. It’s a new bike so nothing should be worn and the shop should have got the limit screw settings right. I don’t live near the shop I bought it from so might have one last tinker now I know what I am aiming for and then drop it in to my local shop if not. Thanks for responses and help.It definitely won’t be the limit screws. They’re pretty much set and forget.
How new is it? Often you need a tune up after the first few miles as the outer housing settle into the frame stops and ferrules. However, if you’ve run out of adjustment with the derailleur barrel adjuster that wouldn’t account for it.
Small moves are the key – half turn at a time – once you know what you’re doing it’s a quick job.
Almost certainly a tension
Almost certainly a tension issue. Should be a single click.
You need to increase the tension by screwing out the barrel adjuster (caution – be careful not to unscrew it completely from the derailleur – that way lies the risk of stripped threads and swearing)
If you’re out of adjustment using the barrel adjuster then wind it all the way back in, then back it out 1 full turn. Once you’ve done that you need to detach the cable from the derailleur pinch bolt and tighten the cable by yanking on it (or use a third-hand tool if you must). Then its just a question of tweaking the barrel adjster on the mech until you get reliable shifting.
Small moves of the cable tension barrel adjuster are required in order to do this.
For further info see this manual
https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RD0003-09-ENG.pdf
You need the section on SIS adjustment (Page 14 onwards)
Sensa has the best kit, but
Sensa has the best kit, but no idea on whether the frame is any good
Decathlon has discs which may be useful for commuting, but if you’ve been riding single-speed this might not be a factor. Its also the only one that will take racks and mudguards
Cannondale is the least practical but probably the most grin-inducing. Will unfortunately attract more attention from thieves than the other two.
Any recommendations for
Any recommendations for similar quality tubes without removable cores?
Thx Capt Caveman & EG3FTP1 –
Thx Capt Caveman & EG3FTP1 – typically enough I have both of those tools…
…in the panniers of my other bike #facepalm – mainly because I ride that off road a lot and you’re likely to encounter people with Schrader-specific pumps.
Must order a set for the road bike – will be cheaper than a new pump
