Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Ta, contacts are a “No, god
Ta, contacts are a “No, god no” for me as I’m borderline phobic about things being anywhere near my eyes – I don’t even get on with the wrap around vizor style glasses currently popular in the peloton.
Do you have the external or
Do you have the external or internal battery? Which handlebar junction box are you using?
As others have said, take the repaired wire out of the equation and see if front shifting then works.
If you have the internal seatpost battery and the newer handlebar junction (SM-EW90) you can plug everything in via the battery charger to your PC and run the eTube software to diagnose the issue. In my similar experience (when I yanked the rear mech wire out by accident because it hadn’t been fully seated) I needed to do this to get it all working again. It’s almost like you need to do a configuration reset on the battery (all the brains of Di2 is contained within the battery)
If you’ve got an external battery you’ll need to rent/buy the PC linkage box – SM-PCE1 or SM-PCE02. They’re expensive to buy but there are usually people renting them on eBay for around £30.
Thinking outside the box a
Thinking outside the box a little I reckon we can turn the shed 90 degrees which will give space for something around 4m wide and 6m long so all good.
For planning regs, that would put the highest point of the structure more than 2 metres from from the boundary, does that potentially mean I can have 2.5m eaves height? What about a pent/skillion roof sloping towards the boundary so the highest part is then 4m from the boundary?
Currently pretty sold on the log cabin approach, not least because that’s what my neighbour has and it only took the two of us a day to assemble. More expensive but if we’re staying put then it makes sense and will add value to the house if we do move.
For the base we’ll definitely get that professionally done as the site is very uneven
No excuse but it was
No excuse but it was incredibly foggy over the Forest last night, I couldn’t drive safely much over 20mph. Looking at the damage to the Disco he must have been doing more than 40. Bet he’s local too.Available space is around 3m
Available space is around 3m x 4m, no hard standing there at present – existing shed is on a gravel base which would be replaced.
I ran the external bottle
I ran the external bottle cage XTR battery case (which takes the newer seatpost style battery rather than the “brick”) with 6870 – my thinking at the time was that I’d eventually get a frame with internal routing and I didn’t want to buy the battery twice. I remember thinking about getting the display and potentially running a pair of climbing shifters alongside the standard road levers. Mostly in a fit of “because I can” rather than any practical reason 🙂
Vaguely remember that the
Vaguely remember that the M9050 was a way of getting semi-auto shifting that didn’t arrive on the road groupsets until the R8000 version of Di2
Yep, that should work. I
Yep, that should work. I mixed XTR Di2 stuff (the external battery case) with Ultegra 6870 on a build and it was fine
I treated my Layhams to parts
I treated my Layhams to parts from three bikes – Tiagra shifters, some old Specialized bars, Deda stem, 105 chainring, R7000 mech, and Tiagra cassette. The only new parts were long drop calipers (which then got swapped for standard 5800 calipers in silver when I found out they fitted just fine) and Deore XT pedals.
Alternatively, you can
Alternatively, you can measure the frame spacing with a decent straight edge metal ruler – pop the rear wheel out and just measure between the inner faces of the dropouts.
I don’t know what the rear
I don’t know what the rear spacing is on your bike but that’s probably the issue, and it’s also probably easily solved.
Road disc spacing (OLD) is usually 135mm or 142mm. There’s also 148mm Boost spacing but that’s MTB or a few gravel bikes. You should be able to find out what it is by googling Synapse OLD for whichever model year your bike is.
You need to find out what the OLD is for the Synapse, and what the spacing is for the Mavic rims. The thickness of the QR shouldn’t matter as it’s specific to the hub, not the frame – unless there’s is something unusual about the Mavic hubs it should just be a case of finding a 12mm to 9mm QR adapter for whatever spacing the Synapse is.
Mavic have all the adapters listed here – admittedly this might be the 2020 version of your wheels but they will be able to advise you if anything has changed, which I doubt – https://shop.mavic.com/en-gb/cosmic-elite-ust-disc-rr1103.html#1028=3283
Agreed – Bowman have got good
Agreed – Bowman have got good press/reviews consistently in the specialist press/forums so it won’t be an issue. You’re likely to be selling to someone who knows what they’re looking for and is knowlegable about buying bikes/frames secondhand so you need to factor that in a little (discerning buyer buying on condition rather than badge). Obviously as well there’s less of them about and a smaller market so the approach I would take to selling would be specialist forums or as a fixed price with offers listing on eBay (that’s how I got my Layhams)
Bowman CS is pretty good for
Bowman CS is pretty good for a small team, they’re coping well with being a niche supplier with quite demanding customers. As I said I’m a very happy customer. I bought the frame secondhand and it wasn’t perfect – some poor paint finish around the fork crown just lets it down ever so slightly if you look closely – but the Layhams was a very short run over 3 years ago. They’ve built and sold a lot more bikes since then, and obviously if you’re buying direct from them rather than secondhand you can resolve any issues pretty easily with them.
One other to add to the mix –
One other to add to the mix – have you considered a Kinesis Aithein? Current model is a very dull but on trend grey but they did an absolutely gorgeous cherry red one for a number of years which comes up for sale fairly regularly in the usual places. Just one caveat – you can’t run a compact on it so it’s a pure race machine (52 min big ring from memory)
I love my Bowman Layhams,
I love my Bowman Layhams, beautiful build and finish. Built up from a frameset and everything was faced and finished nicely, no extra work required beyond having the steerer cut. Plenty of solutions to the mudguard issue – although the Layhams has mounts I have PDW Full Metal Fenders on mine. I have no need for a Palace but I’d happily have one. You’re getting a boutique frame vs a mass produced one, admittedly one of the better ones in my eyes (I’ve always liked the CAAD ethos)
