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Have just spotted a near mint
Have just spotted a near mint Specialized Tri-cross with Cantis on Facebook marketplace, wondering how fast and light that would build up…You’ll struggle a bit to get
You’ll struggle a bit to get the brake bosses, I’ve been constantly on the lookout for a gravel frame (basically something between a road bike and a CX bike, with space for 40c or bigger tyres) which will take rim brakes (my preference is mini-Vs) but they are few and far between!
Kinesis do a CX frame called the CX1 which looks best, my only reservation is the relatively racey geometry, I’d planned on fitting a Specialized Hover Bar or similar to bring the front end up.
Spa cycles do some steel tourers and Audax bikes, and All City do the Mr Pink, but the Mr Pink is long drop callipers which I think limits you to 30c tyres or thereabouts.
Check out the Gunnar Crosshairs though, my perfect frame if I could afford $1500+ from the US…
Edit: I meant to add, I quickly gave up on cantilevers on my Charge Plug commuter, just couldn’t get them squeal and judder free. Fitted some nice TRP CX 8.4 mini-V brakes (quite cheap on eBay, Ti hardwear and pimpy anodising as well) which are much better, especially with Swisstop BXP pads. I think mini-Vs have issues with rim clearance, they need to be set up quite close. I got around this by using Campag style levers with the quick release button on the lever. I run the lever in the ‘released’ position all the time which means more lever throw but also more clearance at the rim.
If I’m imagining your
If I’m imagining your position on the bike right, it does sound like the position most likely to flex the wheel in the fork, i.e. your wheel is now tilted to the right with your weight on the left pedal? This would make the fork want to flex to the left, so I guess it could well move the calliper a tiny bit closer to the disc.
If I was ever to make my rim brakes rub it would be in a similar position whilst pedalling hard.
If you are positive there is no additional movement in the wheel (is the QR/thru-axle as tight as it can be? Are the bearings in good condition with any play adjusted out if possible?) then the only thing that could have ‘changed’ is the pads self adjusting closer to the disc on one side. You could push them back in with a tyre lever (or better yet buy the Hayes alignment guage) then go through the process of re-aligning calliper.
Also, now I think about it, I once mananged to create a burr on the side of a pad by re-installing the wheel clumsily, the disc caught the edge of the pad and left a ‘tuft’ sticking out which hit the disc when I put any power through pedals.
My local shop also gave up with some noisy discs of mine, basically admitting they spent about 50% of their time trying to resolve noisy disc brake issues…
I would reccomend buying Wahoo sesnors as replacements. After both my Garmin Speed and Cadence sensors failed and refused to re-sync I have gone down the Wahoo route with my Garmin 510.The Garmin picks them up instantly and they just work!
Good Luck!
Thanks, that was going to be my next question. The re-boot and re-pair only worked on the kitchen table last night, no pairing on bike this morning.
My speed sensor is actually a Wahoo and it’s been fine, so I guess I’ll give them a shot for the cadence sensor too.
Easier to maintain as well?
Easier to maintain as well?
I’m doing some tricep exercises (dips, press-ups) to improve my stamina in the hands-on-hoods, forearms-flat position, but ultimately it’s easier to go faux-time-trial with elbows on the tops and forearms forward of the bars. Less leverage on the triceps I guess.
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I had an old style cadence/speed sensor that simply died… I replaced the battery but no joy. Oddly it still flashed its lights in test mode, but no output to the head unit. Replacement one has been as good as gold for years, so just bad luck.Only time will tell, even when it wasn’t working, it still occasionally gave a readout.
Frustratingly I’ve lost the receipt so it will be bad luck otherwise as I’ll be shelling out for a new one! Good to hear your replacement has kept on working, and at least this time I’ll keep the receipt…
Thanks, I thought the same
Thanks, I thought the same but experimented last night taking the battery out and leaving it out for 5 minutes, apparently this can reset something within the sensor.
Cleared all sensors from the head unit, re-paired cadence sensor, and everything *seems* hunky dory.
If it drops out again I’ll replace the battery.
Cheers
Some discussion here:
Some discussion here:
https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/ergon-canyon-leaf-spring-seat-posts-anyone-got-one/
I’m currently more tempted by a cheap Ti post for the same price, hoping either will be better than stock 1cm wall-thickness aluminium post!
I had to laugh about all the
I had to laugh about all the wide rim stuff too, funnily enough I’m now running 25c tyres on 17mm internal rims, when I used to mountainbike on… 2.35″ tyres on 15mm internal rims! and that was in the era of ghetto tubeless and 30psi tyre pressures, cornered just dandy.
Not saying you shouldn’t go wider, just saying cornering isn’t a reason to do it.
Don’t dismiss the Praxis
Don’t dismiss the Praxis crankset, I took it off because I wanted to run 170mm cranks instead of 175mm. Noticed immediately how much lighter it was than the Tiagra crankset I put on instead. It was really nicely finished as well.
I put it up for sale and immediately got £80 for it.
Anyway, sorry to confuse you further!
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BTW – Rocacorba is a bit of a let down imho. Almost every other climb in the region is nicer, it’s just famous as it was a handy steep ramp for testing on. Don’t do it ahead of rides to the coast (the Tossa del Mar loop will blow you away) or Mare de Déu Del Mont.Good advice, thanks! Didn’t know about the Mare de Deu Del Mont loop…
Ha, should have thought of
Ha, should have thought of Girona, we’re headed there in a couple of months (unfortunately hottest part of the year, I’m getting pre-hydrated now!).
Think the Rococorba is the Sa Calobra equivalent out there, more height gain I think.
Bourg d’Oisan in France.
Bourg d’Oisan in France.
You’re surrounded by classic Tour de France climbs, Alpe d’Huez, Galibier, Col du Telegraph, Col du Glandon, Croix de Fer, and then there are lesser known climbs scattered about as well, Col de La Morte, Col d’Ornon, La Berarde, Col de Saurenne, and plenty others.
Bourg itself was great, we pretty much returned to the same bar/restaurant every evening, stayed in a beautiful family run cyclists chalet called ‘Cycling Ascents’ whose owner (Kevin, I think) is a super rapid local cyclist who can do guided rides in the area as well.
Specialized Allez Elite?
Specialized Allez Elite?
For £1050 you get full 105, rim brakes, and as stock it will weigh less than the Canyon Endurace Disc. It costs £300 less also which you could put towards nicer tyres (the stock ones are commuter tyres, heavy but robust, I fitted lighter Continental 4 seasons).
Also, check out Rose bikes, they do the Pro SL Ultegra for £1269 and if it’s like their other bikes you can tweak some of the spec to suit your tastes. They also have the carbon Team GF Four on sale at the moment at £1450
I’ve tried discs for wet weather road riding, commuting and gravel and will now stick with rim brakes until they prise them from my cold dead hands. So much less noise in the wet, much easier to adjust if they start rubbing, no fear of contamination from road spray, and if I really need more power I just pull the lever a little harder
Thanks everyone, had to avoid
Thanks everyone, had to avoid thread for a couple of days until I caught up with Fleche-Wallon result!Not racing, but do aspire to higher average speeds over distance, and perhaps keeping up with some faster mates who do have a lower front end.
Was actually surprised to find my bars are already approx 30mm lower than saddle, must be a bit of perspective going on to make me think they were level.
Won’t be flipping stem, not going to dust off my high school trigonometry but pretty sure flipping the stem is a pretty big difference in heighr, certainly more than a spacer’s worth.
Interesting comments about achieving an aero position without dropping the bars, I have been feeling I could do with 1 or 2cm additional reach when forearms on the hoods.
Given that my S.I. joint has coincidentally started twinging this week maybe I’ll just leave the bar height alone for now!
