[hawkinspeter]

kil0ran wrote:

Vaguely remember that the M9050 was a way of getting semi-auto shifting that didn’t arrive on the road groupsets until the R8000 version of Di2

Don’t see how. The ‘brains’ of the Di2 system lives with the battery, so enabling auto/semi-auto shifting required older systems to get a newer internal seat post battery.

[hawkinspeter]

I did try one of those but

I did try one of those but found that when I paired it with a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt, there was often a bit of lag with displaying the gear. The Bluetooth does run down the battery a bit quicker but it’s not a big difference.

[hawkinspeter]

I’ve been using the slightly

I’ve been using the slightly older SC-M9050 IIRC and there’s no issue with compatibility with road Di2.

It can replace the handlebar junction box and there’s no need for the separate wireless unit with this – it takes 3 cables, so that’s one going to the in-frame junction box/battery and one each for the two handlebar controls/brifters.

I love it as it gives you a constant illustration of the approximate battery level and also your current gear. I don’t use the wireless aspect of it as I found the phone app wasn’t as easy/reliable as just plugging in a laptop (I’ve got a handheld laptop – 8 inch screen – it’s easy to just pop it on the handlebars while it does a firmware update etc).

Downsides are higher battery consumption and it uses up some handlebar estate – more of an issue with aero bars where you’ve only got a small space to mount stuff.

 

[hawkinspeter]

The driver probably got it

The driver probably got it for Xmas and was proudly beeping his horn to show it off (he probably hadn’t even seen that you were there)

[hawkinspeter]

Happy Xmas to both of you and

Happy Xmas to both of you and don’t forget about maintaining an aero position – it’s like free speed.

[hawkinspeter]

I’d say that no news is good

I’d say that no news is good news.

The damage is probably minimal and like you say, the driver probably just popped the bumper back on.

Forget about it and have a good xmas!

[hawkinspeter]

I’m currently using a pair of

I’m currently using a pair of Endura Luminite waterproof gloves and they seem to fit the bill.

[hawkinspeter]

ktache wrote:

hawkinspeter wrote:

Important: Make sure the manufacturer label is by the valve

I cannot stress how important that is.

[hawkinspeter]

You’re most welcome.

You’re most welcome and good luck to you both.

[hawkinspeter]

Alessandro wrote:

From my experience with tubeless tires, here’s my 12 step guide to a stress-free application of sealant: 

1. Deflate tubeless tire completely. 

2. Remove valve with valve core removal tool. 

3. Inject sealant into the valve, over most of the wheel and tire, the kitchen floor and anything else within 2 metres. 

4. Replace the valve core. 

5. Pump the tire back up as quickly as you can. 

6. Spin wheel so that the sealant covers all of the inside of the tire (caution: the sealant covering the wheel and outside of the tire from step 3 will likely go on the walls this time). 

7. Watch as the sealant leaks out of any holes in your tire but take comfort that this is normal and that your not insignificant investment in tubeless tires was definitely worthwhile. 

8. Go for a ride and get more and more enraged as the tire you have just filled slowly deflates. 

9. Return home and repeat step 1 (unless your tire has already fully deflated on the ride). 

10. Remove tire from wheel with great difficulty while recoating the recently cleaned kitchen floor with sealant. 

11. Clean rim and install inner tube and non-tubeless tire. 

12. Resolve never to enter the world of tubeless tires again. 

Haha, noob – fettling with tubeless indoors?

After much trial and error, I’ve settled on these steps:

1. Make sure you’re using the Milkit valves to make refilling sealant nice and easy
2. Try to deflate tyre, but realise that the Milkit extended tube on the valve core has gottten detached and you can’t deflate it normally
3. Use proper pliers to remove the valve core as it seems to be glued in place and normal valve core removers aren’t man enough for the job
4. Find a metal pokey stick that fits into the valve (and is long enough to deal with the 75mm valve) and hammer it down until you break the seal and can start deflating the tyre
5. Remove the tyre
6. Remove the valve and find that the Milkit extended valve plastic tube is twisted and useless
7. Find a seller on EBay that does just the Milkit valve inner with tube (or spend more on the complete valve) and await delivery
8. Clean rim and examine the rim tape – isopropyl alcohol is good for that, but don’t breathe it in too much
9. Fit a new tyre (usually a bit of swearing and losing a few tyre levers as they get pinged over the neighbour’s fence).
   Important: Make sure the manufacturer label is by the valve
10. Try to dry inflate the new tyre – this can be a bit of a race between air seeping out and how quick you can operate a track pump (alternatively use a tubeless inflator, though that’s cheating – just for the real problem ones)
11. When the beads have pinged (banged?) into place, deflate and remove valve core (if you needed to insert it to use the track pump)
12. Milkit syringe about 40-50mm of sealant into the tyre and swish it round a bit
13. Re-inflate the tyre and get a bit anxious at seeing sealant leaking out between the rim and the bead – until a loud bang makes you realises that the bead wasn’t fully seated before
14. Quick wash of the tyre and leave overnight to see if there’s any loss of pressure

[hawkinspeter]

Great idea – hope you don’t

Great idea – hope you don’t feel wiped out by the end of it.

[hawkinspeter]

I’m glad that you were able

I’m glad that you were able to walk/cycle away.

That sounds like absurd behaviour from the police. I’d be inclined to use their online incident reporting portal as that way you get to put across your version of events.

[hawkinspeter]

Sounds like a great excuse

Sounds like a great excuse for upgrading both calipers.

[hawkinspeter]

It could be either an old

It could be either an old worn cable inner that’s snagging on the outer casing (or vice versa) or it could be the brake caliper getting a bit rusty etc.

If you disconnect the brake cable, see what happens when you squeeze and release the caliper manually – do both arms move easily and spring back? If so, then replace the brake cable inner, if not then either do a good dismantle/clean of the caliper or replace it with a nice new one.

[hawkinspeter]

More free advertising?

More free advertising?

[Author]

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