[one_bad_mofo]

I’m going to need a new pair of tyres soon and so it makes sense to make the most of the tubeless compatibility of the Pro-Lite wheels I’m running and upgrade to tubeless tyres.
The only criteria I have are that I want to go to 28c I’m getting old and a carbon race frame equals a punishing ride.
So let me have your real-world opinions, reviews and recommendations so that I can go spend some money.

Topic

[Chris Hayes]

There’s a special DT Swiss

There’s a special DT Swiss valve adapter available, but it was the rim tape that caused the leak…the air just came out from the valve area.  

[crazy-legs]

I run tubeless on both road

I run tubeless on both road and CX.

Schwalbe G-One 38mm on the CX and Schwalbe Pro One 28mm on road. Both fitted absolutely fine, only the rear on the CX needing a couple of attempts to get it seated..

Road bike – the tyres lasted a year and about 6000 miles (inc a LEJOG and some riding in Gran Canaria) with no issues although by the time I finally changed them, the rear was virtually down to the canvas! Zero punctures (or at least, no noticeable ones). 

CX – had one puncture that wouldn’t seal (rear tyre) and I’ll admit it was a faffy mess to clean up. However, the setup has saved me from punctures that would have required a tyre removal and new tube so overall, it was a time and cost saving.#

Lower pressures so a much more comfortable ride on and off road. As for kit, I would never use Mavic rims as they appear to have their own proprietary diameter that, while it may only be a mm off “standard” 700c, is enough to make fitting some tyres an absolute pig. And I would never use Continental tyres as I’ve found the quality control shocking over the years and fitting them is often a nightmare, they’re some of the tightest tyres around and that, when you’re sitting by the roadside in the rain, is not good.

Never had any problems with Schwalbe or Specialized tyres, they’ve always been excellent. Most wheels that advertise themselves as tubeless ready are fine – honourable exception as above is Mavic with their attempt to force everyone into useing their wheel/tyre combination.

[mtbtomo]

Oh and one of those tubeless
Oh and one of those tubeless tyre inflator cannisters makes the job immeasurably easier. Never a problem seating tyres with that. Well worth the investment.

[mtbtomo]

I’ve fitted tubeless to
I’ve fitted tubeless to probably 10pairs of wheels over the last few years. Found them pretty much fit and forget. If you take your time getting the rim tape right then it’s fine. Sometimes I put the rim tape on and then inflate the tyre with a tube over night to make sure the tape is well stuck down. Other times I haven’t bothered. I usually some wood glue (or “Copydex” equivalent) on the valve seat.

Its been proven they have a lower rolling resistance which is important to me as I do a bit of TT and road race. But it’s the lack of punctures I like. The only one I’ve had sealed enough to get me home without having to change a tube in or repair it. I don’t bother topping up unless I am changing the tyre for a reason, you can hear sealant sloshing round within the wheel much longer than the recommended “top up every 3 months”. Good to know pinch punctures not an issue either.

I’m a fan and just fit and forget them. Hutchinson, Vittoria and previously Schwalbe Pro Ones but I think there are better available now

[Hirsute]

When you say rim tape, it
When you say rim tape, it take it you mean on the vertical side of the rim?
The Mavic UST don’t need that, so they are quite good in that respect. I’m finding myself needing to top up sealant more than I thought and check tyre pressure too a lot more than expected.

[hawkinspeter]

Chris Hayes wrote:

I’ve been experimenting with tubeless and am becoming quite frustrated with the constant attention they seem to need. I’m using Conti 5000s on one set of wheels and Hutchinson on another.  Here’s what I learned. 1. Mavic rims need Mavic tyres, or Hutchinsons – because no others will sit; 2. Fitting valves onto asymetric rims takes patience; 3. Rim tape may come unseated which means you have to take a goo-filled tyre off, clean everything, refit it, reseat the tyre and refill with sealant, 4. If you get a cut in your tyre and you’re not carrying a plug then see 3. 5. Given the above, you’re pretty much obliged to check your tyre pressure daily.

That said, they do ride well and give you a certain amount of (perhaps misplaced) confidence that you won’t get a puncture (unless its a serious one). 

PS: There may be an assumption that this is user error on my part, given I’ve had problems with all my tyres – but they have been fitted and refitted by bike mechanics I trust….

I fitted some new tubeless tyres onto my MTB yesterday and had trouble with the asymmetric rear wheel. I checked the old valve (I was swapping in some Milkit valves) and it had the relevant spacer thing that fits over the valve and provides a stable surface for the o-ring to seal against – that did the trick.

With rim tape, I’ve had issues when I’ve damaged it with tyre levers whilst trying to remove/replace tyres, but otherwise it shouldn’t be an issue.

[Chris Hayes]

I’ve been experimenting with

I’ve been experimenting with tubeless and am becoming quite frustrated with the constant attention they seem to need. I’m using Conti 5000s on one set of wheels and Hutchinson on another.  Here’s what I learned. 1. Mavic rims need Mavic tyres, or Hutchinsons – because no others will sit; 2. Fitting valves onto asymetric rims takes patience; 3. Rim tape may come unseated which means you have to take a goo-filled tyre off, clean everything, refit it, reseat the tyre and refill with sealant, 4. If you get a cut in your tyre and you’re not carrying a plug then see 3. 5. Given the above, you’re pretty much obliged to check your tyre pressure daily.

That said, they do ride well and give you a certain amount of (perhaps misplaced) confidence that you won’t get a puncture (unless its a serious one). 

PS: There may be an assumption that this is user error on my part, given I’ve had problems with all my tyres – but they have been fitted and refitted by bike mechanics I trust….

 

[hawkinspeter]

I’d vote for Continental

I’d vote for Continental GP5000TL in 28mm. Got them front and rear and haven’t noticed any issues with grip, punctures etc.

[Welsh boy]

I use 25mm Hutchinson Fusion

I use 25mm Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storms on one of my bikes.  They ride nicely but when they wear out I am going back to inner tubes and 25mm Continental Grandsport Race tyres which I have on my other bike.  The tubeless hold pressure, the ones with inner tubes also hold pressure, I dont have to top one pair up any more often than the other.  When out on the road I always carry a spare inner tube (I had 2 Schwalbe Pro One tyres split which the sealant couldn’t deal with) and I run both at the same pressure (about 75psi), both offer the same levels of grip (neither has gone from under me) and both offer the same (subjective) level of comfort.  I never suffer with snakebite punctures, i cannt bring myself to run a road tyre at uch a low pressure that my rim will basically make contact with the road if i hit a bump.  The difference is one pair dont need sealant topping up a couple of times a year and there is also a big differnece in price for (as far as i am concerned) no noticable difference in performance.  No doubt the pro tubeless brigade will be on telling me that I am talking rubbish, saying how you can run them at lower pressure, no snake bite puctures and so on but you asked for real world opinions and based on my experience I will not be going back to tubeless.

Disclaimer, my evidence is based on all road use on 25mm tyres, not the 28mm you asked about.

[Author]

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