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Hirsute.
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January 3, 2022 at 6:24 pm #31915
Oldfatgit
I’m thinking about getting a trailer for grocery shopping (doesn’t need to hold kids or pets and to be towed behind my ebike) and I’m after advice:
I see that there appears to be 2 main types of coupling … Seat post or nearside frame.
1. Can the frame mount be used with my existing thru axle, or would I need to get longer ones?
2. I currently have to change wheels when I swap from road to gravel riding; will a frame mount complicate this?
3. What is the benefits of seat post over frame and vice versa?
4. Are two wheeler trailers better than a single wheel for road use?
Any advice or info gratefully received.
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Hirsute
Hmm, one month late to the
Hmm, one month late to the thread, despite the invite.chrisonabike
Looks more like a magnetic
Looks more like a magnetic bike to me. But good point about the Yak, I’d forgotten that there were lots of different wheel options! Horses – or yaks – for courses.

wtjs
You’ll note that the 4 people
You’ll note that the 4 people who mention or show trailers in here have ebikes !
Not all of them!
chrisonabike
Well that’s an excellent
Well that’s an excellent pairing. Agree – the effect of 2 extra small-diameter wheels will never be insignificant. I always considered just using the rack / panniers before reaching for the trailer. However even with no motor on your bike they’re useable. I’ve no e-bike but found them handy even in hilly Edinburgh and being of average fitness or below. You just go slow.
They’re really good if you have:
– occasionally got loads to shift, want to do it by bike and don’t have cash or storage for a dedicated cargo bike. Mine cost me under 40 quid 2nd hand and lived folded up in a cupboard most of the time.
– are shifting > 20 kg or so and / or it’s a bulky or awkwardly-shaped loadNot so useful if:
– you’ve smaller loads – see above about drag. With a suitable bike (I’ve an old tourer), rack(s) and set of large panniers you can carry a lot (see “luggage capacity” on this page)!
– you live up a mountain. A motor might help though. Also check your braking capacity and if the trailer will tend to lift one end of the bike…
– you’re in a hurry. Taxi!
– you have only got busy / fast roads to use. Doable but can be unpleasant. Lobby for proper infra / get a car.
– you’ve no low gears (talking below 30 gear inches, for hills below 20 or put a down-payment on new knees).cqexbesd
chrisonatrike wrote:I’m sure you’ve got the common sense I haven’t… but for anyone like me, be aware of the centre of gravity of your load and the fact that the rear wheels can act as a lever. If your trailer tips it may also result in you and your bike laying down unexpectedly. Wind on a light but tall load but especially kerbs – even dropped ones e.g. when turning to cross a pavement – can cause this.I have a Burley Nomad (cargo) and a Burley Solo (child). Thie hitch is such that if you flip the trailer it doesn’t flip your bike over – there is enough rotation allowed to prevent that. The thing that sold me on Burley when we first got a trailer (maybe 15-20 years ago?) was the hitch design though. This may not be true for all hitch designs.
Don’t ask me how I know that even the child trailer doesn’t flip the bike when it rolls over. I do commend the seat belt design in these trailers.
P.S. I don’t have an e-Bike Hirsute and I have moved house with the trailer đŸ™‚
Hirsute
You’ll note that the 3 people
You’ll note that the 4 people who mention or show trailers in here have ebikes !
chrisonabike
Nice! Glad it’s working for
Nice! Glad it’s working for you. I had one for years – a great tool. Mine was cheaper / lower quality than yours and the drag of two extra wheels was noticable so I didn’t use it for groceries. It was invaluable on a number of occasions though. 1 and a half flat moves, furniture, DIY supplies etc.
I’m sure you’ve got the common sense I haven’t… but for anyone like me, be aware of the centre of gravity of your load and the fact that the rear wheels can act as a lever. If your trailer tips it may also result in you and your bike laying down unexpectedly. Wind on a light but tall load but especially kerbs – even dropped ones e.g. when turning to cross a pavement – can cause this.
Oldfatgit
Update:
Update:
Got my trailer 2 weeks ago.
Needed a new axle – so many thanks to the guys below for recommending a supplier. Had the usual arse twich first time I put the axel in as the thread wouldn’t turn after about 2 turns – took it out and fed it through from the mech side and everything was fine (probably a bit of crap in the thread from the old axel).Used it twice now for the weekly shop (3mile round trip, with 1/2 mile 4% climb on the way back)…
First time nearly killed me, but then that was on the back of a 50mile club ride – lesson learned.
Used it today … Strong headwinds on the way to the shop; trailer handled it well, but does bounce a bit when empty (to be expected), and it takes a bit of practice to match the cadence and gears to stop overspeed.
Coming back, trailer behaved better loaded; up to 23mph (with a gusty tailwind) on the way back (enough shopping to last the family of 6 for the week) and it wasn’t fazed.In all, the actual journey part took about 7mins longer (round trip) than if I’d took the car.
Putting the trailer together and hitching it up takes a few minutes, but less time than demisting the windscreen on the car.
The routine will get more polished the more I do it, and the easier it becomes the more likely I am to keep doing it.Thanks guys for the encouragement, as I drive a big diesel van, it’s already starter re-paying for it’s self.
Total outlay – <£170

Oldfatgit
Magic, thanks Tom.
Magic, thanks Tom.
Bit too small to get both in.Our normal most of the week shop pretty much fits in these crates, so if I’m able to use them, it’ll make life easier đŸ™‚
Don’t want to be in a situation where I’ve brought too much and can’t get it back home ?
Tom_77
Oldfatgit wrote:
Oldfatgit wrote:Tom_77 I have a couple of crates that I use when shopping with the car. Will these be able to fit in your trailer and be secured? Length 590 X w 385 X h320 each unitThe internal area is approx 53 cm wide by 67 cm long. Height with the cover on is about 36 cm.
I use a couple of large Ikea bags along with a few reusable supermarket bags, take the cover off and stick a cargo net over the top.
Oldfatgit
HaveLegsWillRide
SJS & Robert Axle in the
SJS & Robert Axle in the states were both really helpful when I was getting an axle for a kids trailer. It’s on an MTB that came with similar thru axles (QR-style handle thing) to yours. I just leave the hitch axle in all the time, it’s not been an issue riding off road so far (touches wood ?)Oldfatgit
Magic, thank you.
Magic, thank you.
I’d use my normal axles when not towing, especially when gravel as I wouldn’t want to catch the hitch on anything
Hirsute
Yes. When you put the hitch
Yes. When you put the hitch on, the locknut tightens it all up. Then you just have effectively a longer axle.
You then use your 5mm Allen key to remove it (subject to the shape of your rack !!).The RAP pages have some short videos of them installing and swapping out. For liability issues, they tell you to swap the tow axle out when not in use.
Oldfatgit
I’ve bit the bullet and
I’ve bit the bullet and ordered a replacement axle that’s designed to cope.
I’d rather part with a few quid now than an expensive rebuild / replace later đŸ™‚
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