[Secret_squirrel]

Multiple times on the Rim vs Diac debates I see comments saying it’s quicker to change a wheel with rim brakes.  I’ve searched for any timings but I’m finding it hard to find anything online.

I’m unconvinced QR+rim is faster.  You have 2 actions – release the brake remove lever on the caliper + spin the QR. 
Through Axle you just spin the bolt.  And that’s without using the special QR TA’s you can get.

So. My feel is that this is a false statement?  Thoughts?

Topic

[ErnieC]

I do have thru axles and that

I do have thru axles and that is why i am surprised it happens so often. Could it be the amount of “force” I use when I tighten the thru axle? Could uae a torque wrench every time i suppose. 

[Backladder]

ErnieC wrote:

OnYerBike wrote:

ErnieC wrote:

Having used both disc and rim brakes, i find it quicker to replace a wheel in the rim brake bike. What i find quite frustrating is that after repacing a wheel in the disc bike, i quite often end up with that dreadful ting-ting-ting sound as the disc rubs against the pads. 

If you’ve got a couple of disc brake wheelsets that you regularly swap between, you can get really thin disc brake shims to adjust the position of the rotors to ensure a perfect alignment. E.g. https://cyclocrossracer.co.uk/products/centre-lock-shims-pack-of-four or https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/disc-rotor-spacers-6-bolt.htm 

Problem is when I am out on the road and fitting wheel after replacing the tube. I only have one set of wheels and have the same issue at home.  I take wheels off when i wash my bike and ended up with pads rubbing after that. Could well be doing something wrong as this is my first bike with discs but have followed all the suggestions found online. Any idea what I amy be doing “wrong”?

If you have a through axle then that should not happen as it is supposed to go back in exactly the same position every time, with QR then the wheel can be positioned slightly differently each time. One thing to try is once you are ready to swing the lever round to clamp the wheel pull the brake on to centre the disk, once you have tightened the QR the pads should retract by the same amount to leave the disc centred.

[ErnieC]

OnYerBike wrote:

ErnieC wrote:

Having used both disc and rim brakes, i find it quicker to replace a wheel in the rim brake bike. What i find quite frustrating is that after repacing a wheel in the disc bike, i quite often end up with that dreadful ting-ting-ting sound as the disc rubs against the pads. 

If you’ve got a couple of disc brake wheelsets that you regularly swap between, you can get really thin disc brake shims to adjust the position of the rotors to ensure a perfect alignment. E.g. https://cyclocrossracer.co.uk/products/centre-lock-shims-pack-of-four or https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/disc-rotor-spacers-6-bolt.htm 

Problem is when I am out on the road and fitting wheel after replacing the tube. I only have one set of wheels and have the same issue at home.  I take wheels off when i wash my bike and ended up with pads rubbing after that. Could well be doing something wrong as this is my first bike with discs but have followed all the suggestions found online. Any idea what I amy be doing “wrong”?

[IanMSpencer]

OnYerBike wrote:

IanMSpencer wrote:

[…] you need to open the brake.

Given that this debate is more about racing/pro cycling, it’s worth pointing out that if you’ve got an aero wheel/tyre combo that follows the “Rule of 105%”, the external rim width is meant to be wider than tyre and so you shoudn’t need to open the brakes to get the wheel in/out.

I don’t see anything in the OP post to say that this is about pro racing. I thought roadies were people who insisted on having refinements and debates whether they were important or not. 😉

[OnYerBike]

ErnieC wrote:

Having used both disc and rim brakes, i find it quicker to replace a wheel in the rim brake bike. What i find quite frustrating is that after repacing a wheel in the disc bike, i quite often end up with that dreadful ting-ting-ting sound as the disc rubs against the pads. 

If you’ve got a couple of disc brake wheelsets that you regularly swap between, you can get really thin disc brake shims to adjust the position of the rotors to ensure a perfect alignment. E.g. https://cyclocrossracer.co.uk/products/centre-lock-shims-pack-of-four or https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/disc-rotor-spacers-6-bolt.htm 

[OnYerBike]

IanMSpencer wrote:

IanMSpencer wrote:

[…] you need to open the brake.

Given that this debate is more about racing/pro cycling, it’s worth pointing out that if you’ve got an aero wheel/tyre combo that follows the “Rule of 105%”, the external rim width is meant to be wider than tyre and so you shoudn’t need to open the brakes to get the wheel in/out.

[Creakingcrank]

The pro mechanics use an

The pro mechanics use an electric screwdriver, so all they have to do is stick it in the axle, realise the bit has dropped out, find a replacement, find a replacement that is the right size, stick it in again, turn off hammer drill mode, find the little button that switches into reverse, new battery, stick it in again and bang, the wheel is changed…

[IanMSpencer]

Cos the bloke over there
Cos the bloke over there running around in a panic is supposed to have it.

[IanMSpencer]

QR needs seating and checking
QR needs seating and checking alignment, you need to open the brake. Setting a QR is not trivial, they need unwinding to free up and you want the right tension when locking it. Front wheel with disc and thru-axle is quick and reliable.

The downside of disc is the rear axle. Getting the rear rotor in while also locating the cassette and chain and getting the derailleur to settle is not straightforward – very easy to get hung up. Rim brake slightly easier and quicker to mount, but you still have the issue of reliably seating the QR.

So it depends front or rear.

The other advantage is compatibility. I have Giant & Hunt wheels, and can switch between both without realigning brakes or cassette. The rim may not line up with the hub in the same way on rim brake wheels, and hubs don’t seem to be quite as compatible for cassette alignment.

[Anonymous]

In addition to Steve K’s apt

In addition to Steve K’s apt observation: 

ChuckSneed wrote:

Now that’s a bike. No disc brake wide tyre poncery.

https://road.cc/content/feature/staff-bikes-eds-dolan-race-bike-rim-brakes-299179#comments%5B/quote%5D

[quote=ChuckSneed]You need to line up the rotor in the disc brake too, which is what takes more time in my experience. Still worth the small amount of extra time for the better stopping power as well as modulation and all weather performance. I tried a disc brakes for the first time yesterday and have been convinced instantly.

One day disc brakes are “poncery”, and the next you admit you’d never even tried them before and that, once you did, you realized they are superior to rim brakes.

I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that you’re genuinely struggling to find your place rather than intentionally being a prat all over the comments sections. It’s worth some self-reflection then to try to understand why people are so put off by you and what your role is in that. I recommend a healthy dose of patience, maturity, and self-editing before posting in the future.

[Steve K]

Secret_squirrel wrote:

Secret_squirrel wrote:

That’s fair – but if racing I’d be using the TA’s with the built in handle.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/brand-x-twist-lever-thru-axle-1

Why don’t the pros use those?

[Steve K]

ChuckSneed wrote:

ChuckSneed wrote:

You need to line up the rotor in the disc brake too, which is what takes more time in my experience. Still worth the small amount of extra time for the better stopping power as well as modulation and all weather performance. I tried a disc brakes for the first time yesterday and have been convinced instantly.

You tried disk brakes for the first time yesterday, yet you have all this experience of having to line up the rotor? ?

[ErnieC]

Having used both disc and rim

Having used both disc and rim brakes, i find it quicker to replace a wheel in the rim brake bike. What i find quite frustrating is that after repacing a wheel in the disc bike, i quite often end up with that dreadful ting-ting-ting sound as the disc rubs against the pads. 

[Secret_squirrel]

That’s not been my experience

That’s not been my experience when using the same brand discs and wheels. I can swap my Gravel wheels for my road wheels with no adjustment they just drop in. 
 

Unless you mean those awkward moments when you miss the dropout?

[Anonymous]

You need to line up the rotor
You need to line up the rotor in the disc brake too, which is what takes more time in my experience. Still worth the small amount of extra time for the better stopping power as well as modulation and all weather performance. I tried a disc brakes for the first time yesterday and have been convinced instantly.

[Author]

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