[Secret_squirrel]

Multiple times on the Rim vs Diac debates I see comments saying it’s quicker to change a wheel with rim brakes.  I’ve searched for any timings but I’m finding it hard to find anything online.

I’m unconvinced QR+rim is faster.  You have 2 actions – release the brake remove lever on the caliper + spin the QR. 
Through Axle you just spin the bolt.  And that’s without using the special QR TA’s you can get.

So. My feel is that this is a false statement?  Thoughts?

Topic

[IanMSpencer]

My Giant handle didn’t
My Giant handle didn’t survive the initial attempt at loosening. I think it was slightly painted in, and the carbon separated from the hex bolt without loosening the axle. Given the recommended torque of about 11Nm on mine, I’m not convinced those pseudo-QR levers are up to the job.

[kil0ran]

If it’s something you don’t

If it’s something you don’t do regularly I think both are a bit of a faff. My current hamfistedness manifests itself in consitently getting the disc the wrong side of the pad with my TA wheels, but that might be down to the design of Spyres. Other than that I vastly prefer TA front and rear to QR for disc brakes, precise alignment means no brake rub or indexing issues caused by poor dropout centering. I also don’t miss the lawyer lips. The only minor issue with some of the removable handle TA types is that they tend to foul mudguard stays and so you need to change position a couple of times when undoing the front in particular. In winter I tend not to have them fitted as I’ve got the right size hex key in my tool roll anyway.

 

[fukawitribe]

QR thru-axles I’ve seen have
QR thru-axles I’ve seen have all been much quicker when removing the front wheel, wee bit slower on the rear.

[IanMSpencer]

You’ve not had 12 other
You’ve not had 12 other riders “supervising” your puncture repair on a group ride, have you? 😉

Isn’t the answer in part that the Quick Release was successfully marketed to the public, even though there was a perfectly satisfactory bolt on system before – and properly setting a QR is beyond many cyclists. Nobody would suggest these days that the QR was only relevant to pro’s.

[Jimmy Ray Will]

I think the point here is

I think the point here is that speed of wheel change is only really relevant to those needing a fast change, i.e. those competing.

To everyone else, will 5-10 seconds either way make no difference at all.

[Backladder]

hawkinspeter wrote:

You shouldn’t need a torque wrench for thru axles at all. Ideally they should hold the wheel in exactly the same place and orientation, so I wonder if you’ve got the wrong length TA in there? It’d be worth checking that the brake disc is on tight and doesn’t have any movement too and the wheel bearings too.

Yes, you’re clamping the axle between the fork legs and no amount of heaving on a lever a couple of inches long is going to change that. Is the disc warped at all? I find one piece discs very prone to heat distortion, the ones with an alloy spider in the centre are much more stable. Check that the disc is properly centred in the caliper and that the pads are retracting fully and evenly when the brake lever is released.

[wycombewheeler]

Steve K wrote:

Steve K wrote:

Secret_squirrel wrote:

That’s fair – but if racing I’d be using the TA’s with the built in handle.

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/brand-x-twist-lever-thru-axle-1

Why don’t the pros use those?

someone in the peleton probably complained about the risk of being impaled by the lever and losing an eye in a crash involved thru axle and qr bikes.

[wycombewheeler]

Steve K wrote:

You’ve missed the ‘get the hex key out’ stage for the TA.

Mine is attached to one of the wheels at all times, it can be a bit of a pain to remove it as it is a snug fit.

[wycombewheeler]

Steve K wrote:

Steve K wrote:

ChuckSneed wrote:

You need to line up the rotor in the disc brake too, which is what takes more time in my experience. Still worth the small amount of extra time for the better stopping power as well as modulation and all weather performance. I tried a disc brakes for the first time yesterday and have been convinced instantly.

You tried disk brakes for the first time yesterday, yet you have all this experience of having to line up the rotor? ?

A prudent cyclist is thorough with practicing for wheel changes before riding a bike outside, so they can have total confidence they will not be stranded by a puncture.

[Steve K]

hirsute wrote:

hirsute wrote:

I think I must be a bit cack handed Qr – wheel never quite in the right spot, so the brakes don’t align. Thru – fiddle about for ages with the rear wheel so that the hole is in the right spot for the axle to go in.

I’m similar.  The thing I prefer about thru axles is that once you’ve got it in, you know you definitely have the alignment right.  With a QR, there can always be that element of doubt.

[vthejk]

There’s a video of Kate

There’s a video of Kate Courtney’s mechanic refitting her (thru-axle enabled) rear wheel in the middle of a XC race. I’ll have to find it! Yes he is a professional, but he is dazzlingly fast and there seem to be no alignment or seating issues in getting the wheel back. I’m not sure if that’s an endorsement of mechanical ability or perhaps confidence in not damaging dropouts/rear mech/jockey wheels etc but it does show that TAs are fast if needed.

[Hirsute]

I think I must be a bit cack
I think I must be a bit cack handed
Qr – wheel never quite in the right spot, so the brakes don’t align.
Thru – fiddle about for ages with the rear wheel so that the hole is in the right spot for the axle to go in.

[Inder]

Rim brake + QR is quicker

Rim brake + QR is quicker than thru-axle…surely!! You need to wind the thru-axle all the way off the threads and fully remove/reinsert. With QR you just undo the cam and wind back a few threads, maybe open up the calliper QR depending on how close you run the pads to the rim if you have wider tyres. 

[Wingguy]

ErnieC wrote:

Problem is when I am out on the road and fitting wheel after replacing the tube. I only have one set of wheels and have the same issue at home.  I take wheels off when i wash my bike and ended up with pads rubbing after that. Could well be doing something wrong as this is my first bike with discs but have followed all the suggestions found online. Any idea what I amy be doing “wrong”?

Probably one of two things, either the brake lever is being squeezed slightly and advancing the pads when the wheel is out, or the caliper is slightly misaligned. If it’s already too close on one side but not quite touching, any miniscule bit of dirt or grit washed onto the pads or stuck to the rotor will rub on that side.

[hawkinspeter]

You shouldn’t need a torque

You shouldn’t need a torque wrench for thru axles at all. Ideally they should hold the wheel in exactly the same place and orientation, so I wonder if you’ve got the wrong length TA in there? It’d be worth checking that the brake disc is on tight and doesn’t have any movement too and the wheel bearings too.

[Author]

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