Drivetrain Dilemma

  • This topic has 23 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by 0-0.
  • Creator
    Topic
  • #31606
    0-0

    I’ve got a Shimano 105 R7000 Groupset (except for the Ultegra shifters & 11-40 cassette) on my bike.
    The bike has done 7400 miles so far.
    I’m not really sure if certain components are now worn out or they’re good for another few thousand miles.

    Clicking:
    A few days ago I replaced the Bottom Bracket (BBR60) because the old one was clicking (it had been for a while, but I ignored it).
    But the new one also clicks (when ascending). I presume it’s the BB.
    I’ve taken the new one out twice and reinstall it, just to make sure it’s tight enough etc.
    I also took the 2x chainrings apart and cleaned them. Plus re-greased my pedal axles.
    But I still can’t get rid of the clicking sound. The chain is fairly new too.

    What I’m not sure about and if they’re are connected to the problem, or are separate problems on their own.

    My 11-40 cassette isn’t “rock solid” on the freehub, there’s 1 to 2 mm of play (at 90 deg to the axle). I’m not sure if the free hub is worn out.
    The cassette has been removed/cleaned/reassembled twice to fix the issue, but even though it’s tight enough, it wobbles.
    I don’t remember having any wobble problems when I bought the cassette, or with the original 11-34.
    The splines on the freehub don’t look damaged, just the look of general use with the bite marks from the gears.

    My lower jockey wheel seems to have lots of play (looking from the top down – side to side movement, and looking from the side view – about 1 mm of radial movement.

    Lastly, I’d like to ask if my 52t chainring needs replacing, or is good for another few thousand miles?
    I can’t figure how to add an image to this thread, so here is a link to a photo:

    View post on imgur.com

    Thanks for any advice, and sorry for the long rambling thread.

Viewing 8 replies - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
  • Author
    Replies
  • #980415
    0
    ktache

    My tip is to grease (or weird

    My tip is to grease (or weird carbon thing if you are so inclined) the seatpost.  Was often the last of my attempts to remove weird clicks, but it is now one of the first things I do.

    And it stops it from seizing in there.

    And there is often meant to be float on your lower jockey wheel.  Only the ones with sealed bearings don’t.

    #980413
    0
    Podc

    If it clicks when climbing

    If it clicks when climbing then it might be worth checking the headset is correctly tensioned, and that the stem bolts and saddle clamp bolts are tight.

    #980411
    0
    matthewn5

    Tighten both quick release

    Tighten both quick release skewers. Also, can be pedals, if they’re worn the bearings can precess, which makes a sound.

    #980407
    0
    0-0

    Thank you very much everyone.
    Thank you very much everyone. I’ll recheck all your suggestions.
    ?

    ** EDIT 21/05/21 **
    I tried all the suggestions, except for the derailleur hanger (but wouldn’t that cause clicking all the time?).
    It still clicks.
    My freehub body was seized onto the axle, but fixing that also didn’t help (wobble or clicking).

    #980409
    0
    David9694

    Great minds.

    Great minds.

    #980405
    0
    hawkinspeter

    Could be a missing spacer

    Could be a missing spacer with the cassette – they shouldn’t wobble at all. It’s worth checking if it could be the seatpost, so just loosen it, move it a bit and put it back where it was and tighten up again though if it’s carbon then it’s worth removing it completely and putting a bit of carbon assembly paste on it (which can help prevent it seizing).

    I’ve solved a clicking bottom bracket previously by using a bit of loctite on it to “stick” it in place, but that was a pressfit so I’m not sure if the same applies to yours. Double check that the chainring bolts are all tight too as that can cause clicking if you’ve got a slightly loose one.

    Some movement is fine with jockey wheels, but make sure the plates are properly fastened as they shouldn’t have any movement.

    Chainring looks fine to me and they should last for ages as long as you replace chains regularly.

    #980403
    0
    Hirsute

    I had a clicking on uphill –
    I had a clicking on uphill – turned out the cassette was slightly loose.
    Others have found it was the seat post.
    Often said that the noise is transmitted around the bike so finding the source is tricky.

    #980401
    0
    David9694

    You have to reply (to

    You have to reply (to yourself) to attach an image.

    I’d be a no to replacing the chainring you pictured.  But keep an eye on your chain wear.
    You may not have the right spacer behind your rear cassette – it should lock down solid with no chatter, as you say. Jockey wheels wiggle a bit – they’re only plastic on a metal bushing or bolt, not much to go wrong. 
    drive train clicks under load are one of the great cycling mysteries – the only b/b variable is the l/h crank – is that fully on, with the plastic bolt done up and the fixing two bolts alternately torqued up? The problem is probably arising from some other part of the drive train, so for example Is the derailleur hanger true? 

Viewing 8 replies - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.