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I’ve got a Shimano 105 R7000 Groupset (except for the Ultegra shifters & 11-40 cassette) on my bike.
The bike has done 7400 miles so far.
I’m not really sure if certain components are now worn out or they’re good for another few thousand miles.

Clicking:
A few days ago I replaced the Bottom Bracket (BBR60) because the old one was clicking (it had been for a while, but I ignored it).
But the new one also clicks (when ascending). I presume it’s the BB.
I’ve taken the new one out twice and reinstall it, just to make sure it’s tight enough etc.
I also took the 2x chainrings apart and cleaned them. Plus re-greased my pedal axles.
But I still can’t get rid of the clicking sound. The chain is fairly new too.

What I’m not sure about and if they’re are connected to the problem, or are separate problems on their own.

My 11-40 cassette isn’t “rock solid” on the freehub, there’s 1 to 2 mm of play (at 90 deg to the axle). I’m not sure if the free hub is worn out.
The cassette has been removed/cleaned/reassembled twice to fix the issue, but even though it’s tight enough, it wobbles.
I don’t remember having any wobble problems when I bought the cassette, or with the original 11-34.
The splines on the freehub don’t look damaged, just the look of general use with the bite marks from the gears.

My lower jockey wheel seems to have lots of play (looking from the top down – side to side movement, and looking from the side view – about 1 mm of radial movement.

Lastly, I’d like to ask if my 52t chainring needs replacing, or is good for another few thousand miles?
I can’t figure how to add an image to this thread, so here is a link to a photo:

View post on imgur.com

Thanks for any advice, and sorry for the long rambling thread.

Topic

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Jbh3 wrote:

Jbh3 wrote:

I had a creaking/clicking sound when climbing. It turned out to be the bladed spokes on the rear wheel where they cross. Some dry lube at each crossover of spokes sorted it out. 

Thank you, I’ll give that a whirl too.

[Jbh3]

I had a creaking/clicking

I had a creaking/clicking sound when climbing. It turned out to be the bladed spokes on the rear wheel where they cross. Some dry lube at each crossover of spokes sorted it out. 

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wtjs wrote:

wtjs wrote:

This may not be the problem because these noises are specific BUT: I had a persistent click when pushing hard on the right pedal. I eliminated everything I thought could be related, but Paul Hewitt suggested that noises can come from the band-on front mech. This seemed highly improbable, but I took it off, put some white grease (lithium?) on the band, reassembled and the problem was permanently gone. It’s a titanium Merlin and Ultegra 9 speed mech.

Thank you for the suggestion.
Mine is a braze-on type, but I’ll check it out.

[wtjs]

This may not be the problem
This may not be the problem because these noises are specific BUT: I had a persistent click when pushing hard on the right pedal. I eliminated everything I thought could be related, but Paul Hewitt suggested that noises can come from the band-on front mech. This seemed highly improbable, but I took it off, put some white grease (lithium?) on the band, reassembled and the problem was permanently gone. It’s a titanium Merlin and Ultegra 9 speed mech.

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Drinfinity wrote:

Drinfinity wrote:

Similar issue for me on CX bike was the bearings in the free hub were shot, and creaked under load. I replaced the two bearings in the free hub and it was smooth and silky again.

On your bike are they the 69022RS Bearings (15mm x 28mm x 7mm)?
If so, what make did you buy? I’ve bought some made by Enduro (for the wheels). The site I bought them from has a comments section, and they got good reviews.

Do you use “proper” tools to replace the bearings, or do you just use various sockets from a socket set?

[Drinfinity]

Similar issue for me on CX

Similar issue for me on CX bike was the bearings in the free hub were shot, and creaked under load. I replaced the two bearings in the free hub and it was smooth and silky again.

[Dnnnnnn]

I take no pleasure from my

I take no pleasure in my prescience.

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Duncann wrote:

Duncann wrote:

0-0 wrote:

I think I’ve found the problem of the clicking

Famous last words!

(but I hope not in this case…)

You’re right, I spoke too soon. The clicking is back.
I’ve can rule out the handlebars, headset, seat post and saddle. They’ve all been clean and regreased.
I’ll redo the chainring bolts yet again.

I’ve ordered a new freehub to maybe cure the wobbly cassette. If that doesn’t fix the wobble, I’ll try some new bearings on the wheel.

[Dnnnnnn]

0-0 wrote:

0-0 wrote:

I think I’ve found the problem of the clicking

Famous last words!

(but I hope not in this case…)

[0-0]

Thank you everyone for your
Thank you everyone for your help and advice, and sorry for the delay in replying.

I think I’ve found the problem of the clicking.
I greased the Thru Axle/the axle plastic caps which locate into the frame/the wheel location recesses on the frame. For the first hour of riding I didn’t hear any clicking.
After that hour I could hear faint clicking and the frequency of the clicking was also reduced, i.e. not every revolution.
Another 30 mins after that, the clicking went away.

I will grease all the other areas you’ve mentioned when I get chance again.

I visited a bike shop to ask about the wobbly cassette. They didn’t really have time to look at it, but suggested it might need a new freehub and/or new wheel bearings.

Thanks again.

[hawkinspeter]

ktache wrote:

My tip is to grease (or weird carbon thing if you are so inclined) the seatpost.  Was often the last of my attempts to remove weird clicks, but it is now one of the first things I do.

And it stops it from seizing in there.

And there is often meant to be float on your lower jockey wheel.  Only the ones with sealed bearings don’t.

I’ve heard that some carbon epoxies can react with grease so best to not use grease on a carbon seatpost (could cause it to swell which won’t be great for any future adjustments). If you’ve got carbon, use some carbon assembly paste instead (it’s not expensive and lasts for ages as you only need a small amount).

[TheBillder]

I’ve also had odd noises from
I’ve also had odd noises from the freehub due to pawls being broken or seized. If you can borrow a different wheel from a bike that doesn’t have unwanted noises, you my be able to eliminate that.

My money’s still on the wobbly cassette though.

[MrMoo]

Have you tried taking the

Have you tried taking the cassette off and spraying the connecting bolts of any cog groups (ie not the single cog pieces) with some wd40? Spray both sides of the bolt and leave it for a minute to penetrate. Then reassemble the cassette. 

[Anonymous]

What sort of pedals do you

What sort of pedals do you have? Nearly all the source of clicks, creaks and squeaks come from my Look Keo Blade pedals – a liberal amount of dry lube on my cleats and the pedals themselves tends to fix the issue.

Doubt the chainrings would need replacing. The only other thing I’ve had that has clicked is the saddle like someone else mentioned because it wasn’t tight enough, but you’d be able to diagnose that by, er, riding out of the saddle for a few seconds.

Do you have a turbo trainer? Stick the bike on it if you do and see if there’s still a noise and if you have someone else who can take a listen as you pedal (or vice versa) all the better.

If it’s anything to do with the wheel it will click more often per pedal turn if you’re in a high gear than in a low gear which might help you to diagnose.

[ktache]

Chainrings only really needs

Chainrings only really needs to be thought about when pointy, and never really desperately need it until they resemble sharks fins.

[Author]

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