di2 build with complications

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  • #30346
    mak parshall

     I need advise on  a project I have, my dedline for when the project starts is newyears. I have a trek 2100zr. If your not fimiliar with it, it is an aluminum bike with carbon seat stays and fork. I intend to replace its mix of 9, 10, and even 11 speed mismatched components, with dura ace 9070 groupset(Ive opted for 9070 insted of 9150 for astedic reasons). I want to use the internal battery instead of the external batter. but my bike has no internal cable routing, since I already bought the parts I am just going to make it work. I have no fear of voiding the warenty, because ive already doen that after getting a braze on mount welded on to the frame because at the time I was  unawear that there was an adapter. I am not afraid to dril the frame, I know a guy who works at a machine shop and is willing to help me drill the holes. I want to finde a method that hides the cables fairly wel and puts the battery in the frame and uses my jc41 junction, because I am not interested in buying a jc40.I can 3d print simple parts to alow me to achive this goal. 

    reguirements:

    I need full drive train functionality

    battery to be mounted internaly

    I cant buy any new components because my money is wrped up in raxce entrys for 2020

    no holes in the carbon seat stays

    no modification to the components other than heatshrink

    it NEEDS to be water proof because I ride in the rain alot

    goals:

    minimal holes

    clean look

    aero

    I would prefer to avoid removing the bb(rather drill an extra hole that remove the bb, unles it means no holes in my frame)

    ive thouht about puting the junction b on my chai stay and routing the di2 cable throught that hole in my chain stay to the battery, If that will work, that would be my prefered option,

    thanks in advance for any help that I can get!

Viewing 3 replies - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)
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  • #953845
    0
    mak parshall

    by the way, thanks for your

    by the way, thanks for your advice! what size holes should I use? and can I make my own gromets to avoid buying brand new ones?

    #953843
    0
    mak parshall

    the cabling dosent need to be

    the cabling dosent need to be internal, just the battery. I am wondering if I can rout the cable through the hole that is just above the rear mech to the battery. Id there Is a better way, Id love to know it.

    #953841
    0
    kil0ran

    Well the easiest and cheapest

    Well the easiest and cheapest option is to stick with external cable routing and use the SM-BTC1 battery case that sits under your bottle cage mount (that also replaces the JC41). For internal routing the BB will have to come out.

    You say no holes in your chainstays. If that’s an absolute requirement then you’re going to need to have the rear mech cable exiting from the BB.

    If you’re absolutely set on internal wiring then I would do the following:

    Hole at top of down tube to take the wires from the shifters/Junction A

    Hole in front of seat tube for the front mech cable

    Hole in base of BB – you can potentially just widen whatever is already there for the BB cable guide for the rear mech cable. And then run the rear mech cable along the bottom of the chainstay

    Place the JC41 in the seat tube above the BB. I assume you’ve got the necessary adapter to fit the battery inside your seatpost.

    If you do the above everything is then internal bar the rear mech cable which will need to be cable-tied to the driveside chainstay.

    All Di2 kit is inherently waterproof so no need to worry about that. You will need to make/buy grommets for the frame holes to minimise any chafing and stop water getting inside your frame.

    Remember – it has to wired as follows

    Shifters -> Junction A -> Junction B and then split out to the mechs and the battery.

Viewing 3 replies - 16 through 18 (of 18 total)
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