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di2 build with complications

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  • December 17, 2019 at 12:22 am #30346
    mak parshall

     I need advise on  a project I have, my dedline for when the project starts is newyears. I have a trek 2100zr. If your not fimiliar with it, it is an aluminum bike with carbon seat stays and fork. I intend to replace its mix of 9, 10, and even 11 speed mismatched components, with dura ace 9070 groupset(Ive opted for 9070 insted of 9150 for astedic reasons). I want to use the internal battery instead of the external batter. but my bike has no internal cable routing, since I already bought the parts I am just going to make it work. I have no fear of voiding the warenty, because ive already doen that after getting a braze on mount welded on to the frame because at the time I was  unawear that there was an adapter. I am not afraid to dril the frame, I know a guy who works at a machine shop and is willing to help me drill the holes. I want to finde a method that hides the cables fairly wel and puts the battery in the frame and uses my jc41 junction, because I am not interested in buying a jc40.I can 3d print simple parts to alow me to achive this goal. 

    reguirements:

    I need full drive train functionality

    battery to be mounted internaly

    I cant buy any new components because my money is wrped up in raxce entrys for 2020

    no holes in the carbon seat stays

    no modification to the components other than heatshrink

    it NEEDS to be water proof because I ride in the rain alot

    goals:

    minimal holes

    clean look

    aero

    I would prefer to avoid removing the bb(rather drill an extra hole that remove the bb, unles it means no holes in my frame)

    ive thouht about puting the junction b on my chai stay and routing the di2 cable throught that hole in my chain stay to the battery, If that will work, that would be my prefered option,

    thanks in advance for any help that I can get!

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  • December 18, 2019 at 7:44 pm #953875
    0
    mak parshall

    same key again, just another

    same key again, just another way I thought up

    December 18, 2019 at 4:39 pm #953873
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    mak parshall

    this Is the other way of

    this Is the other way of routing the cbles that I thought up. with this one, I use cable ties to rout the cable down the down tube and onto the chaintay, where it connects the the junction b. from the junction b, the battery cable routs therought the hole at the end of the chain stay over the bottome beraket to the battery, NO DRILLING INVOLVED! (key is the same as my previus drawing)

    December 18, 2019 at 3:21 pm #953871
    0
    mak parshall

    Ok thanks for all of your

    Ok thanks for all of your help! Ill post pictures when I complete the biuld

    December 18, 2019 at 7:09 am #953869
    0
    CXR94Di2

    mak parshall wrote:

    mak parshall wrote:

    this Is kind of what I’m thinking, would this work? its prety much what ive heard. Ive anotated a picture of my bike from 7 months ago, before I canged the bartape and heaset and slammed my stem.

    key :

    red- internal cables

    green- external cables

    blue- juncrions

    brown- deraliures

     

    That looks right.

    Don’t worry about battery, it weighs very little, much less than a bottle of water. It will not effect centre of gravity to the point you can feel it.

    December 17, 2019 at 11:31 pm #953867
    0
    mak parshall

    this Is kind of what I’m

    this Is kind of what I’m thinking, would this work? its prety much what ive heard. Ive anotated a picture of my bike from 7 months ago, before I canged the bartape and heaset and slammed my stem.

    key :

    red- internal cables

    green- external cables

    blue- juncrions

    brown- deraliures

     

    December 17, 2019 at 10:48 pm #953865
    0
    mak parshall

    it there a way to lower my

    it there a way to lower my batterys position to lower my center of gravity? like some how in the downtube or right on top of the bottom bracket?

    December 17, 2019 at 10:17 pm #953863
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    mak parshall

    ok, thanks this helps a lot! 

    ok, thanks this helps a lot! 

    December 17, 2019 at 7:03 pm #953861
    0
    CXR94Di2

    mak parshall wrote:

    mak parshall wrote:

    ok that seems like would work, how would It affect my bikes structural integrity ? (drilling holes in the frame)

    The big downtube from steering head, no problems, same for seat tube near derailleur.
    The one in the chain stay are usually around 50mm from the weld where the axle is. I would drill the smallest hole that allows the Di2 connector through, then with needle file smooth the hole edges to relieve stress fracture risk.

    December 17, 2019 at 6:50 pm #953859
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    mak parshall

    ok that seems like would work

    ok that seems like would work, how would It affect my bikes structural integrity ? (drilling holes in the frame)

    December 17, 2019 at 5:26 pm #953857
    0
    CXR94Di2

    If the chain stays are
    If the chain stays are aluminium and the seat stays carbon, then with only 3 holes you can fit the Di2 system.

    Hole placement
    1 near the steering on the side of the downtube.

    2 Near the bottom of the seat tube to allow for front derailleur.

    3 Top of chain stay near the wheel axle point.

    Look at a several images(Google) of the cable access points on several bikes to get an idea of position.

    You will need to remove bottom bracket, but its no big deal. Even get local bike shop to remove and refit after you have wired up the frame.

    December 17, 2019 at 5:09 pm #953855
    0
    hawkinspeter
    mak parshall wrote:
    would caulking (Its waterproof and ussed to seal up stuff) its sort of like apoxy but softer, would it work to use it to replace the gromets?

    Possibly. I’ve used Sugru on my bike when the hard plastic hose holder kept breaking. Sugru is hand moldable silicone rubber – it sets in about half an hour. You can get it from Amazon/EBay or model shops easily enough in a variety of colours.

    December 17, 2019 at 4:40 pm #953853
    0
    mak parshall

    would caulking (Its

    would caulking (Its waterproof and ussed to seal up stuff) its sort of like apoxy but softer, would it work to use it to replace the gromets?

    December 17, 2019 at 4:37 pm #953851
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    mak parshall

    would my jc41 be ok outside

    would my jc41 be ok outside of my frame? would I need to cover it In heat shrink?

    December 17, 2019 at 4:30 pm #953849
    0
    mak parshall

    thanks for your advice, I’ll

    thanks for your advice, I’ll think it over. 

    December 17, 2019 at 4:15 pm #953847
    0
    kil0ran
    mak parshall wrote:
    the cabling dosent need to be internal, just the battery. I am wondering if I can rout the cable through the hole that is just above the rear mech to the battery. Id there Is a better way, Id love to know it.

    That might work, but you’ll probably need to make it bigger because annoyingly Di2 cable ends are thicker than standard gear cable outers. I know this because I’d hoped to use my old cable stops when I did an external wire Di2 install on my bike. Hole needs to be at least 6mm diameter.

    If you’re handy with a soldering iron/electronics fettling it might be possible to cut the terminal off the cable, feed it through the chainstay and then reconnect it but you risk destroying an expensive cable in the process.

    Grommets will just need to be big enough to accommodate the main part of the Di2 cable. Probably easier to buy them – e.g. https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-di2-grommet-pack-of-4/

    Looks like frame holes need to be 6mm to take off-the-shelf grommets…

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