- This topic has 42 replies, 28 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 4 months ago by
alansmurphy.
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January 29, 2018 at 8:47 pm #28091
steve_s1
Hi,
I’m a medium weight (70kg) rider and regularly do a few hills around Surrey, UK.
I’m thinking of upgrading my hoops from Shimano RS11s (came with Scott Solace 30) to either Zonda C17 or Fulcrum Racing 3 wheelset. Both sets are ~400g lighter than the RS11s and cost around £300 (~ twice the price of the RS11s).
Before I splash out just wondered if anyone else has made a similar upgrade and if so, will I notice any difference from the stock wheels, especially up hills?
Some research suggests the difference may be marginal and not worth the effort / cost.
Any recommendations welcome.
Cheers all,
Steve
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jimbobule
ChrisB200SX wrote:
Where did you get those stats from?jimbobule wrote:400g wheel weight difference = 0.7 mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear400g tyre weight reduction = another 0.5mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear
So yes, reducing rotational mass has a noticeable effect. Buy cheaper lighter wheels if you can. I got some Prime wheels…good so far
I assure you that saving those 800 grams will not make you 1.2mph faster… Especially if you are going uphill.
If you average say 18mph, then averaging 19.2mph will require nearly 13.8% more power to overcome the extra drag (doesn’t even include the extra rolling resistance you need to overcome)… or equivalent reduction in drag. Where would generate such an impressive increase in power from? It’s certainly not from the wheels.
From strava. Moving from 2050g to 1640g wheelset and from 32mm 419g + tubes gravel tyres to 28mm Pro 4 Endurance slicks at 290g + tubes.
Not only weight at play..
ChrisB200SX
Where did you get those stats from?jimbobule wrote:400g wheel weight difference = 0.7 mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear400g tyre weight reduction = another 0.5mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear
So yes, reducing rotational mass has a noticeable effect. Buy cheaper lighter wheels if you can. I got some Prime wheels…good so far
I assure you that saving those 800 grams will not make you 1.2mph faster… Especially if you are going uphill.
If you average say 18mph, then averaging 19.2mph will require nearly 13.8% more power to overcome the extra drag (doesn’t even include the extra rolling resistance you need to overcome)… or equivalent reduction in drag. Where would generate such an impressive increase in power from? It’s certainly not from the wheels.
jimbobule
400g wheel weight difference
400g wheel weight difference = 0.7 mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear
400g tyre weight reduction = another 0.5mph average speed gain over 30 miles and 1 “extra” gear
So yes, reducing rotational mass has a noticeable effect. Buy cheaper lighter wheels if you can. I got some Prime wheels…good so far
Acm
steve_s1 wrote:
steve_s1 wrote:Appreciate all the comments…lot’s to consider.
Regarding the weight saving, I know it’s a small % of overall weight, but my understanding was that weight saved on wheels is more significant than elsewhere because it’s rotational mass…but my physics is a bit rusty, so not sure if this true or not!
Rotational mass only has an effect when accelerating when the speed of the wheel is changing; ie, when you accelerate. I once worked out the difference for a 70kg rider on a 7 kg bike accelerating from standing (no air resistance when not moving, so all power goes into acceleration, making these effects as big as they could ever be) if you took 400g off EACH rim. It came out at about 0.8%.
The only other improvement you can (theoretically) expect to see is climbing, but the fact that the weight is at the wheels doesn’t have any special effect if you’re at a constant speed, and as someone else has said, the percentage weight saving is tiny.
Your best bet, for going faster (and looking bling), is some deeper wheels. The aerodynamic benefit will help you whenever you’re moving, not just when you’re going uphill or accelerating
ChrisB200SX
Try spinning a wheel with
Try spinning a wheel with your hand. Pretty easy, isn’t it. Rotational inertia is fairly minimal, you won’t be saving much.
Much as it’s nice to save a bit of weight, half a kilo really won’t make much difference, generally. But something a bit more aero will, you won’t really notice it, but you might realise you go a little faster in Strava segments? Aero wheels will probably be about the same weight as what you were looking to purchase anyway.I bought an RS11 wheelset for £80 and a set of RS31 with 30mm depth rims for a litle over £100, both have different bladed spokes (RS11 seems more aerofoil shaped, RS31 spokes seem flat and square-edged). Bargain wheels but I’ve never used either set in over 3 years, after lots of researching I realised spending a bit more on aero wheels was much wiser. I’ll probably keep the RS31 for the cheaper carbon bike when the RS501 go in the bin or onto the cheap Longforme Alu frame and carbon fork bought for just over £100.
I choose “free speed” all day long, unless you traverse mountains on a daily basis?
I’ve not seen any aero tests but OVAL wheels look fairly aero, they might be affordable. Otherwise I recommend importing a couple of FLO30 wheels. $498. Postage and import duty really add to the price though.
http://www.flocycling.com/wheels_rear_flo_30.phpdownhiller
steve_s1 wrote:Appreciate all the comments…lot’s to consider.Regarding the weight saving, I know it’s a small % of overall weight, but my understanding was that weight saved on wheels is more significant than elsewhere because it’s rotational mass…but my physics is a bit rusty, so not sure if this true or not!
Rotational mass is certainly important, but mostly when you’re accelerating it by increasing your speed. On a climb you’ll *mostly* be at a steady speed, so you won’t notice it as much as you would, say, in sprinting off the front of the pack.
steve_s1
Appreciate all the comments..
Appreciate all the comments…lot’s to consider.
Regarding the weight saving, I know it’s a small % of overall weight, but my understanding was that weight saved on wheels is more significant than elsewhere because it’s rotational mass…but my physics is a bit rusty, so not sure if this true or not!
alansmurphy
Thanks PR and CRX, my top
Thanks PR and CRX, my top machine is £1800 worth sourced at a third of that hence my thoughts on what I’d spend on a gadget.The HR made an unbelievable difference to my MV training and taught me a lot. How long I could work in which zone, what gradient tends to put me there etc. Allowed me massively to pace the giant and even since I’ve pretty much ignore the speed and average speed, I work on whether I’ve spent the time.
My smart(ish) turbo has calculated power so I might start having a play, with cheapening tech a one arm pm may start to drop to ‘acceptable’ levels 🙂
pjm60
weight before = 70kg + 8.1kg
weight before = 70kg + 8.1kg = 78.1kg
weight after = 70kg = 7.7kg = 77.7kg
percentage saving = 0.512%
actual effect = marginal
placebo effect = priceless
Russell Orgazoid
Speaking honestly, I would rather have an £1K boggo bike with a PM than a £3K bike without. 400quid or so gets you a good PM and isn’t THAT much if you ride your bike lots but people do like to see something tangible for their money. Bling wheels or Dura-Record on an otherwise mundane componant. Fast riding is largely about the ENGINE….meaning you the rider.alansmurphy wrote:Plasterer’s Radio wrote:No, It’s rhetoric. The benefits are small.Spend the cash on a power meter instead. WAY more useful.
On a long climb (30 mins plus) wheels may save seconds.
The power meter can save you MINUTES.
Do you think so? I only started using HR a year or so ago and am now a convert, speed is just an output, controlling the ability to push a much better measure. It’ll be hard to convince me to spend so much on a piece of tech, why does it make such a difference?
They are not just for racers. Audax riders, sportive riders etc can all benefit. I have. HRMs are OK but a PM offers much more.
Search power meters in youtube. DurianRider videos are funny too but he is marmite too!
Damonw207
The gains are minimal, but if
The gains are minimal, but if you want better looking wheels and don’t mind splashing the cash, go for it!CXR94Di2
alansmurphy wrote:Plasterer’s Radio wrote:No, It’s rhetoric. The benefits are small.Spend the cash on a power meter instead. WAY more useful.
On a long climb (30 mins plus) wheels may save seconds.
The power meter can save you MINUTES.
Do you think so? I only started using HR a year or so ago and am now a convert, speed is just an output, controlling the ability to push a much better measure. It’ll be hard to convince me to spend so much on a piece of tech, why does it make such a difference?
A power meter is a good tool, but when used with a HR they work very well together. You learn quickly at particular heart rate you can make at a certain power figure. This is easy to measure and see when doing indoor training with both devices. I now only use HR when outside and so know when at a particular HR, I’m in, lets say sweetspot zone. Obviously seeing a power number is more accurate, but HR and feel once experienced is nearly as good and will do if you’re climbing an alpine route.
alansmurphy
Plasterer’s Radio wrote:No, It’s rhetoric. The benefits are small.Spend the cash on a power meter instead. WAY more useful.
On a long climb (30 mins plus) wheels may save seconds.
The power meter can save you MINUTES.
Do you think so? I only started using HR a year or so ago and am now a convert, speed is just an output, controlling the ability to push a much better measure. It’ll be hard to convince me to spend so much on a piece of tech, why does it make such a difference?
Anonymous
£300 will get you some pro
£300 will get you some pro-lite Bortola wheels (17.3mm internal), or a set of DT Swiss 370 straight pull (28/24) mounted to DT swiss 460 rims (18mm internal) shimano variant is 1620g.
Less weight will make a difference but it’s often difficult to notice how much, better tyres, change in pressures, better bearings can all add a little, marginal gains and all that.
And all defeated because the wind changed direction.lolSupers79
I went from RS010s to the
I went from RS010s to the Zonda C17s, I did notice a difference, improved times up hills and no stopping half way up some pretty steep ones. Could all be in the mind though! You will notice the difference in when you select your usual low gear and you end up lifting the front wheel off the road! They also give a slight buzz which is always enjoyable to hear.
I’m just under 90kg, have done a around 1000 miles on them with no problems. My choice was between them and the Fulcrums too, but the Zonda’s looked classier and I know a few people who have had problems with the Fulcrum hubs.
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