Canyon Endurace- set up like Ultimate?

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  • #27619
    GavinC

    Hi …pondering between both as not tried either. 

    Any Endurace riders out there- curious to see if you can truly set up as asserive as Ultimate

    (Ult SL 9.0 Disc vs End SLX 8.0 Disc)

    Usually do 40-50m rides rather than out and out sprints. (mid 40s rider…..no bad back problems)

    Cheers

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 32 total)
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  • #902079
    0
    matthewn5
    Flandrien wrote:
    Me again. I’ve been riding with my Endurace (size M) for a few weeks now and I really like the bike, but I’m not 100% comfortable with my position. I had some issues with my knees, so I went to a bike fitter and after finetuning my cleats and saddle (my saddle is all the way to the front now, minimum setback), he said that I actually needed a size L frame. When I contact Canyon, they say a size L is practically impossible with my measurements.

    I can’t switch frames anymore, more than a month has passed, so my bike fitter recommended to buy a longer stem (130mm) and a steer with a longer reach (110mm). Will this help? Because all these numbers don’t mean much to me. My issues with my knees are better (not gone), but now I have a bit pain in the lower back area.

    Bike geometry can be found here:
    https://www.canyon.com//en/road/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-7-0.html

    My measurements:
    Length: 180
    Inseam: 85,9
    Arm length: 59,2
    Torso: 62

    Anybody any comments before I spend more money? 🙂

     

    You’re almost exactly my dimensions. I was perfectly balanced on a Canyon Ultimate AL in M. I too suffered back problems when I had a more racey bike, but I gradually lowered the stem and now my back is fine. You’ll get used to it!

    #902077
    0
    sergius

    Don’t assume your bike fitter

    Don’t assume your bike fitter is a magician.  I had a bike fit which worsened my back and knee pain.  Most bike fit methodologies are based on “normal” biomechanical ranges, there’s a lot of averaging going on.

    Personally, I’d just adjust things a little at a time until the pain goes away.  My solution to this was to find a 6 mile loop near my house and spend an afternoon riding laps, making tiny adjustments each time.

    For back pain – saddle & bar positions

    For knee pain – cleat position

     

    Cheers,

    #902075
    0
    Canyon48
    Flandrien wrote:
    Alright, I’ll do some test riding 🙂 One last question for now. If I move my saddle back, should I lower my saddle height? I’m thinking 2mm won’t make a difference, but 10mm maybe does? Thanks for the help everyone!

    If you keep on moving it by 2mm at a time, eventually you’ll find a position that works.

    You only really need to change the saddle height if your saddle isn’t flat.

    Make sure you have the measurements from the bike fit, then move one thing at a time by a small amount.

    #902073
    0
    Flandrien

    Alright, I’ll do some test

    Alright, I’ll do some test riding 🙂 One last question for now. If I move my saddle back, should I lower my saddle height? I’m thinking 2mm won’t make a difference, but 10mm maybe does? Thanks for the help everyone!

    #902071
    0
    Canyon48

    Flandrien wrote:

    Flandrien wrote:
    Because of the issues with my knee, I went to the bike fitter and he set it up like this. We did some tests and apparently I can push more watts with my saddle to the front. I do feel a little more stress on my wrists now.
    I think it’s also a part in my head that says I’m sitting to close to my bars. I would rather sit a bit more behind, but maybe this will hurt my knee again?

    I don’t do triathlons by the way, just sunday rides and sportives.

    The amount of power you can output isn’t important if you are uncomfortable doing so.

    Assuming the bike fitter is correct, it may take you some time to get used to the position.

    My opinion would be your saddle is too far forward, bunching you up and making your lower back curve too much. Therefore, the saddle should be moved back. Usually, knee issues are due to improper cleat setup (though saddle position can affect this).

    It could be worth keeping your current position and doing a few rides. If you are still uncomfortable, move the saddle back by 2mm and go for a ride. Repeat until comfortable.

    Unfortunately, bike fitting can sometimes be a bit of an art as everyone is different. Getting the fine adjustment takes a bit of time.

    #902069
    0
    Flandrien

    Because of the issues with my
    Because of the issues with my knee, I went to the bike fitter and he set it up like this. We did some tests and apparently I can push more watts with my saddle to the front. I do feel a little more stress on my wrists now.
    I think it’s also a part in my head that says I’m sitting to close to my bars. I would rather sit a bit more behind, but maybe this will hurt my knee again?

    I don’t do triathlons by the way, just sunday rides and sportives.

    #902067
    0
    part_robot
    Flandrien wrote:
    These are the documents the bike fitter gave me: http://docdro.id/IA48iDW (It’s in dutch, so if you need any translations, I’ll do my best).

    I can touch my toes IF I force myself.

    Hmn… your fit is …interesting. Your saddle, as you say, is all the way forward (I bet the tip is directly above the bottom bracket).  Additionally, the reach is quite long (a couple of cm longer than my Ultimate) yet at the same time your drop isn’t so much. It’s kinda like you’re triathlon at the back and relaxes at the front. I’m a bit confused 🙂 What is the goal of this setup? Do you have some issue physical limitations (other than your back)? When you ride the bike, do you find a lot of weight on your hands with this setup?

    Regarding stem, get it from Canyon. They make the best 1.25″ stems.

    #902065
    0
    surly_by_name
    wellsprop wrote:
    Flandrien wrote:
    Or I could buy a longer stem. The one I have now is 100mm. 

    …. Fortunately, stems can be replaced cheaply and easily, so that may be worth changing if back issues continue …..

    Canyon used to use a 1.25″ (constant circumference) steerer, and I am not aware they have changed, so switching stems not quite as simple. Not many manufacturers make an inch and a quarter stem (Ritchey, Syntace). So not impossible but not as cheap and easy as on a bike with an inch and an eighth steerer.

    #902063
    0
    Canyon48
    Flandrien wrote:
    I don’t have the H31 Ergocockpit, instead I have the H17 Ergo AL handlebar. But I prefer not to buy any other handlebar/cockpit.

    I still have all my spacers (27,5mm), so maybe I could try to lower my stem. Or I could buy a longer stem. The one I have now is 100mm. 

    I doubt you will need to change your bars. Fortunately, stems can be replaced cheaply and easily, so that may be worth changing if back issues continue.

    It could be worth changing the stack height then. Depending on your flexibility, it could exacerbate issues.

    #902061
    0
    Flandrien

    I don’t have the H31

    I don’t have the H31 Ergocockpit, instead I have the H17 Ergo AL handlebar. But I prefer not to buy any other handlebar/cockpit.

    I still have all my spacers (27,5mm), so maybe I could try to lower my stem. Or I could buy a longer stem. The one I have now is 100mm. 

    #902059
    0
    Canyon48

    I, like part robot, doubt you

    I, like part robot, doubt you need a large frame.

    Like part robot, I have a Medium Ultimate but with a 100mm stem and 74mm reach.

    Assuming you are using the H31 ergocockpit (which costs a lot to replace) I’d suggest sticking with that for a while to see if the back pain subsides.

    It’s also worth making sure your bars are at the right height. I would consider doing some stretches/core body work too.

    #902057
    0
    Flandrien

    I mean handlebar reach, yes.

    I mean handlebar reach, yes. I’m sorry, English isn’t my native language.

    These are the documents the bike fitter gave me: http://docdro.id/IA48iDW (It’s in dutch, so if you need any translations, I’ll do my best).

    I can touch my toes IF I force myself.

     

    Thanks for helping me out!

     

     

    #902055
    0
    part_robot

    Flandrien wrote:

    Flandrien wrote:

    Anybody any comments before I spend more money? 🙂

    What do you mean “steer with a longer reach”? You mean the handlebar reach maybe?

    I’m with Canyon: I really doubt you need a Large. I’m the same height as you, fairly flexible and with longer arms; my M Ultimate has a 110mm stem using bars with a 70mm reach and that’s ample. That’d be a 120mm stem with your bike. An L simply wouldn’t fit either the legs or reach. That said, my setback (saddle tip to BB center, horizontally) is 80mm and it seems like yours is a good few cm less? Which strikes me as a little odd unless you’re doing triathlons with it…

    Can you share the dimensions the bike fitter gave you? E.g. handlebar drop, handlebar reach, saddle setback, saddle height, etc? Also, can you touch your toes? 

    #902053
    0
    Flandrien

    Me again. I’ve been riding

    Me again. I’ve been riding with my Endurace (size M) for a few weeks now and I really like the bike, but I’m not 100% comfortable with my position. I had some issues with my knees, so I went to a bike fitter and after finetuning my cleats and saddle (my saddle is all the way to the front now, minimum setback), he said that I actually needed a size L frame. When I contact Canyon, they say a size L is practically impossible with my measurements.

    I can’t switch frames anymore, more than a month has passed, so my bike fitter recommended to buy a longer stem (130mm) and a steer with a longer reach (110mm). Will this help? Because all these numbers don’t mean much to me. My issues with my knees are better (not gone), but now I have a bit pain in the lower back area.

    Bike geometry can be found here:
    https://www.canyon.com//en/road/endurace/endurace-cf-sl-disc-7-0.html

    My measurements:
    Length: 180
    Inseam: 85,9
    Arm length: 59,2
    Torso: 62

    Anybody any comments before I spend more money? 🙂

    #902051
    0
    Canyon48

    Based on the geometry alone

    Based on the geometry alone of my Ultimate CF SLX Disc, I think I could closely match the geometry of the Endurace.

    The Endurace does have the nicer Assualt LE Disc wheels compared to my Ultimates Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon’s (though I bloody like them!).

    The Ultimate has slightly narrower bars (another reason I chose it) as well as the Antares saddle (which I upgraded to the carbon braided version anyway).

    I tend to do shorter (1-2 hour rides) at pretty much the max effort I can sustain for that time, I tend to keep fairly low and spend most the time on the drops. My position is as aggressive as I can currently sustain but I still have 15mm stack on my Ultimate, so I imagine I could keep the same position on the Endurace.​

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 32 total)
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