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HowardR.
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May 15, 2015 at 7:32 am #24005
charlie29
From reading other forum posts, I know that I am not alone in being nervous of going downhill, but I wondered if anyone has actually managed to overcome this issue? :/
I am fairly new to road cycling and with the help of this forum (and the funny anecdotes) have managed to sort out my initial worries over the clipless pedals. 🙂 I can’t seem to get over my fear of going downhill, though – I hang on to the breaks and feel completely embarrassed at how slowly I end up creeping down, especially when I am out with a group. :O
Please don’t tell me to just get a grip – I can’t! 8|
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HowardR
Cyclax Maximus wrote:………..imagining your next door neighbour was trying to steal your girlfriend through the cat flap…Thank you for such a wonderfully surreal Leauge of Gentelmenesque notion
Cyclax Maximus
HowardR wrote:Might seem a bit silly this but ……. Glasses/sunglasses that provide decent wind protection.When your eyes are steaming & your vision is blurred things can feel very fraught very quickly. Some decent protection that holds the wind off & allows you to clearly see what’s coming up leads to things feeling a bit ‘slower’ and rather more controllable.
Not silly at all and a valid point, especially for hay fever sufferers too no doubt.
I’ve found that descending is about 90% confidence and 10% skill, although some will probably disagree.
I would say I’m reasonable at descending myself, but over-cautious at times when I probably have no need to be. Being relaxed with loose shoulders, and not holding onto your bars as tight as possible, imagining your next door neighbour was trying to steal your girlfriend through the cat flap…
HowardR
Might seem a bit silly this
Might seem a bit silly this but ……. Glasses/sunglasses that provide decent wind protection.
When your eyes are steaming & your vision is blurred things can feel very fraught very quickly. Some decent protection that holds the wind off & allows you to clearly see what’s coming up leads to things feeling a bit ‘slower’ and rather more controllable.
Yorkshie Whippet
Yorkshie Whippet wrote:
Yorkshie Whippet wrote:One more thing to add to all the very good advice is possible try another bike. I loved the way Planet X Pro Carbon climbed and convinced myself I was absolutely pants at downhill. Anything above 20mph was brown streak inducing. Got myself another bike last year and was clocking up 40+ a bit too often. Some people are natural descenders just like some are natural climbers.Second this whole heartily.
TypeVertigo
matthewn5 wrote:levermonkey wrote:Try to regard your back brake for speed control and your front brake for stopping.Isn’t it exactly the opposite? Front brake for speed control, rear brake if stopping completely. That’s the way I was always taught. The front brake is much more powerful, so you only use the rear at the end when you’re nearly at a dead stop, because it doesn’t have as much effect.
Ideally we’d all finish our braking in a straight line before turn-in. Tires have a finite amount of grip, and they work best if they are asked to handle one task (acceleration, braking, or cornering) at a time. Trying to combine two tasks means the tire can’t do them as well.
As an example, if I were to overcook a corner and carry too much entry speed, mid-corner I’d much rather feather the back brake lever to scrub some speed and get back in line. Because the back brake isn’t as strong, it can be used for speed control and line adjustment in cases like this – and it’s arguably easier to recover from a loss of rear grip than it is from the front. Doing so with the front lever will have a greater likelihood of me hitting the deck; the front tire is already loaded up with cornering forces.
In just about every other situation though, I’d rely on my front brake more. I would bias just a little more to the rear for wet rides. I’m not sure I agree with dedicating one brake for one duty, because most of the available braking power on any vehicle is on the front wheel(s). The only reason why bicycles and motorcycles flip over when the front brake is too clumsily applied is because these have only one front wheel to handle braking loads and weight shifting. For us cyclists, we have to do the weight shifting by hanging our bums over the saddle to compensate.
matthewn5
levermonkey wrote:
levermonkey wrote:Try to regard your back brake for speed control and your front brake for stopping.Isn’t it exactly the opposite? Front brake for speed control, rear brake if stopping completely. That’s the way I was always taught. The front brake is much more powerful, so you only use the rear at the end when you’re nearly at a dead stop, because it doesn’t have as much effect.
madcarew
JonD wrote:
JonD wrote:Some good advice above, tho I’m not convinced the ‘cancellara knee out’ makes much difference to weight distribution since you’ll be putting a lot of your weight through the outside pedal (which will be at its low point). Tho what it may do is help point the riders shoulders (and hence view point) around the corner – ie look where you want to go.At the higher end of the performance spectrum, weight on the outside pedal is exactly where you want it, and on the inside handle bar…. try it sometime. Hanging the knee out seeems to be fairly natural, though according to Jobst Brandt is not actually helpful.
At some point going down hill is about the adrenalin thrill. If you’re not an adrenalin junkie you’re probably going to hit your ceiling fairly early on. For those that enjoy their adrenalin buzz it is about the thrill of going fast. For me, I regularly top 50mph and only consider fast to be above 60 mph.
General tips….
Going fast:
- Find an open, straight down hill with few obstructions and just get used to going quicker and quicker down it
- Initially on the hoods, as you can brake reasonably effectively from there, and after a while moving to the drops
- Look far ahead
- Relax.
On handling:
- Be on the drops
- Lose your speed before a corner, but often some braking through the corner is necessary to control / stop you building up speed through the corner
- Weight on the outside pedal, and then the inside handle bar
- Weight distribution cornering about 40% outside pedal, 40% saddle,20 % inside handle bar.
- Look where you want to go, not at what you’re afraid of hitting
- Practise for cornering by going into street corners fast and getting used to the sensation of the speed.
- Remember that a washout (sliding off the bike) is generally a lot less painful than a tumble (hitting sh*t). I used to practice leaning the bike over around corners on a grass field to get over a fear of sliding out in a corner.
View from the cockpit on my playground:
And yes, the road really is that rough, (speedo in kph)
Akatarawas road in wellington, 107 corners in 4.5 miles, 5% average.
Paul5f
Like many others have said
Like many others have said there are lots of us in the same position as you. I came to road cycling from a mountain biking background where I was a reasonable descender, but on a road bike I found going downhill on a 25mm tyres with forks that seem the same thickness as ice lolly sticks and brakes that seem to scub a little speed rather than stop the bike frightening. I barely improved over 6 months, but a change of bike has helped and descending is now something I am fairly average at instead of p*ss poor. I changed my bike from a Canyon to a Trek, the main differences that seem to make the bike more stable and inspire more confidence are disc brakes (only 140mm rotors but inspire so much confidence as I know I can stop), a slightly lower bottom bracket which means a slightly lower saddle height and lower centre of gravity, and 32mm tyres (im 90kg and run them at 80psi) which soak up a lot of the bumps in the road so I don’t feel like my bike is going to fall to pieces over rougher sections of road.
Anonymous
Just make a note of your
Just make a note of your threshold speed and nudge it up 2mph each time.
The other method is the braver one, if your friends can do it, you can do it. I used to use that one doing trackdays on my motorbike, I’d run well under my potential till i followed a faster rider. Not too much faster though.
Kapelmuur
The day after Gent-Wevelgem I
The day after Gent-Wevelgem I rode up and over Kemmelberg, well the pro’s make it look so easy.
If anyone has any tips for descending -20% cobbles with a sharp right hander at the bottom without resorting to brown shorts I’d be grateful.
My technique was to grip the brakes until my hands cramped.
Simontuck
Definitely better on the
Definitely better on the drops, slightly off the saddle to absorb any unexpected bumps. Get good at bunny hops!! Still hate descending though, it’s not much more fun going up hills though tbh!
dottigirl
JonD wrote:
JonD wrote:Some good advice above, tho I’m not convinced the ‘cancellara knee out’ makes much difference to weight distribution since you’ll be putting a lot of your weight through the outside pedal (which will be at its low point). Tho what it may do is help point the riders shoulders (and hence view point) around the corner – ie look where you want to go.Yep. I’ve always found the ‘look where you want to go’ thing is the most difficult for newbies to pick up. Putting the knee out also helps me look in the right direction.
JonD
Some good advice above, tho I
Some good advice above, tho I’m not convinced the ‘cancellara knee out’ makes much difference to weight distribution since you’ll be putting a lot of your weight through the outside pedal (which will be at its low point). Tho what it may do is help point the riders shoulders (and hence view point) around the corner – ie look where you want to go.
Richard1982
Great thread, I too suffer
Great thread, I too suffer from this problem.
As a natural slacker I used to love going downhill, until I was doing nearly 90kph and got a HUGE speed wobble. At one point I was contemplating jumping off the bike as aiming for the grass was probably better than hitting the tarmac. Somehow I managed to get the bike back under control and I stopped ok, but my confidence was shattered to pieces. The thing is now that I’m probably in more danger now as I am so stiff and nervous on the descents. Some good tips here though and I’m going to try and work on this over the summer. Annoyingly round where I live you frequently find yourself going down 1:5’s, 1:4’s and on occassion 1:3’s 🙁
Nat Jas Moe
When I was a kid I had a bad
When I was a kid I had a bad crash, probably due to doing the death grip, as a result was always rather slow and nervy. But now after returning to the road I have learnt to relax and get my position right (hanging my backside further back off the seat, from mtb days) this now allows me to be able to descend fast and have been able to reach the dizzy heights of 53 mph, on not very good roads. This is fast enough for me. I think its about state of mind and learning to relax and go with the flow and trying not to touch the brakes too much. Hope you have success and don’t worry you will be able to slowly build up your speed. Most of all ENJOY yourself. B-) -
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