- This topic has 29 replies, 18 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 8 months ago by
johnny1986.
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December 6, 2013 at 8:57 pm #20314
johnny1986
I am looking at getting a new bike. I currently ride a cannondale caad8 road bike but it doesnt seem to cope with the punishment from 20 miles a day on poor quality roads so I was thinking of getting a cyclocross bike. I have been looking at the raleigh rx comp but can anyone suggest any other bikes around the same price mark (£1000-1500)?
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johnny1986
Im going to get the pro6 but
Im going to get the pro6 but hopefully getting a hope wheel set and hope bb to make it a bit more durablesmuggers
Dave42W wrote:My bike does
Dave42W wrote:My bike does not do the same number of commuter miles (my work is based from home) but it is ridden every day whatever the weather and has done over 3,500 miles in it’s first year.
Routine maintenance has been virtually zero. Certainly needs nothing at all doing most months (and I mean nothing: it does not get a wash, a light charging or a tyre pumped up).
The key secrets?
– Rohloff hub gears
– Gates Belt Drive
– Hope Hydraulic Disk Brakes
– Schmidt dynamo with front and rear lights
– 32mm Schwalbe Durano tyresOther elements include a Hope BB with ceramic bearings.
To be sure it is not the world’s fastest bike (unless you include all those hours of cleaning/servicing when it easily wins). But it could be setup to be a lot faster by losing some of the racks (rear, front randoneer and low rider), metal long fenders with mudflaps, the Brooks saddle, no kickstand and possibly replacing the Jones Loop H-Bar with drop handlebars – in that guise I am confident it could compete with most cross bikes on most commutes and still not need servicing.
Oh and the real bonus is that 50% of the total cost was for items made in the UK.
See http://42bikes.warnock.me.uk/2013/11/30/reliability-is-not-boring/ which details all the maintenance needed over 12 months/
Love your Stoater plus, Dave.. Great to see a independent British company, building such awesome bikes.. I think, I shall have to get saving up after drooling over their website this morning.. Blown away by the quality and attention to detail… Not sure my wife will be quite as enthusiastic though !! 🙂
smuggers
I like the look of the Rose
I like the look of the Rose Pro DX..And will probably get one for commuting next year.. A great all rounder, with good spec and within your budget.http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/bike/rose-pro-dx-cross-4400-2014/aid:692456?bikevariantchanged=1
Dave42W
My bike does not do the same
My bike does not do the same number of commuter miles (my work is based from home) but it is ridden every day whatever the weather and has done over 3,500 miles in it’s first year.
Routine maintenance has been virtually zero. Certainly needs nothing at all doing most months (and I mean nothing: it does not get a wash, a light charging or a tyre pumped up).
The key secrets?
– Rohloff hub gears
– Gates Belt Drive
– Hope Hydraulic Disk Brakes
– Schmidt dynamo with front and rear lights
– 32mm Schwalbe Durano tyresOther elements include a Hope BB with ceramic bearings.
To be sure it is not the world’s fastest bike (unless you include all those hours of cleaning/servicing when it easily wins). But it could be setup to be a lot faster by losing some of the racks (rear, front randoneer and low rider), metal long fenders with mudflaps, the Brooks saddle, no kickstand and possibly replacing the Jones Loop H-Bar with drop handlebars – in that guise I am confident it could compete with most cross bikes on most commutes and still not need servicing.
Oh and the real bonus is that 50% of the total cost was for items made in the UK.
See http://42bikes.warnock.me.uk/2013/11/30/reliability-is-not-boring/ which details all the maintenance needed over 12 months/
VeloPeo
I have a Crosslight Pro 6 –
I have a Crosslight Pro 6 – bloody lovely bike. Built it up with 105 and it’s an absolute blast to ride.johnny1986
Argh!!! After being so
Argh!!! After being so certain on getting the raleigh another contender has reared its head. Kinesis Crosslight pro 6. Any suggestions people?johnny1986
Well I think I have made a
Well I think I have made a decision. I have been limited to brand choices as my lbs is doing 0% over 24 months for me and taking my caad8 as the deposit so I am going for the Raleigh RX Comp. Pretty much the same kit on it as 1500-1800 colnagos, felts and ridleys but for 1200.8o8 finch@m
Why not have a look at the
Why not have a look at the Giant Revolt 1 which is almost a halfway house between a cyclocross and road bike….. It comes in under the £1000 Mark, which means it comes within the “ride to work scheme”, it has good traction, disc breaks, and is a very robust bike. Bullet proof….mrmo
johnny1986 wrote: The first
johnny1986 wrote:The first died of mechanical failure when the metal around the main attachment bolt shattered and the mech flew forward into the spokes (shimano refused to accept responsibility however the UK suppliers did offer me a discount) The second seized up and would not swing freely.On the first rear mech, do you remember when it happened, mechs don’t usually snap, it can happen, but is usually something to trigger it, bad shift, chainsuck, twig.
Second one Is actually more perplexing, basically rear mechs that are used don’t sieze. You did try and soak the rear mech in GT85 or similar???
wellcoordinated
If you keep breaking spokes
If you keep breaking spokes your wheel has not be trued correctly. The wheel may be round and not wobble so ‘true’ in the eyes of the unaware, but it will not have had any uneven stresses removed from it. A good wheel builder lightly trues the wheel, then pulls it around in various ways to remove the internal stresses, then the wheel gets trued again. This happens until all the uneven stresses are removed. Get someone who knows what they are doing to rebuild your wheel properly and you’ll be fine.johnny1986
Thank you for all the advice.
Thank you for all the advice. I know that the regular maintenance is going to be a must regardless of what bike I get, just need to find the time with a full time job, a 3 year old an 18 month old and a wife at university studying nursing!!Speaking of maintenance a lot of people recommend gt85, I am using TF2 at the moment, is there much of a difference? I use it on all the mechanical moving parts (rear/front mech, spd peddles, brake swing arms etc) and I am using muc off chain cleaner and finish line wet lube on the chain. I also grease the jockey wheels with LM grease. Is there anything I should be doing differently?
Jack Osbourne snr
Aha. That makes a bit of a
Aha. That makes a bit of a difference. I’ll drop the conspiracy theory and my apologies if we’ve inadvertently dissed your grease monkey skills!Mech one may have been over-torqued, but it’s probably bad luck.
Mech two might have lived longer with a weekly GT85ing to blast crap out of the pivots and keep it slippy.At this time of year, the road crud can overwhelm the majority of cleaning and lubing efforts within days at your mileage. I had to stop into a shop for an emergency can of GT85 yesterday after my entire drivetrain started to misfire on the way to work.
Your problems are much more likely to be what’s on top of the road rather than the road itself, so other than to satisfy n+1, a CX bike is probably not the solution.
If pressed for a recommendation, I’d go for the Boardman CX Team at £900. Add full mudguards and some 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tyres and you have an awesome commuter bike that will eat crap road surfaces. I cruise comfortably at 20+ mph on these tyres, so don’t worry about the bigger tyre being slow.
Previous advice regarding cleaning and lubing regimes remain the same regardless of the bike.
Neil753
@ Philtregear – sounds like a
@ Philtregear – sounds like a good plan.I guess the cycle industry likes pushing derailler equipped winter bikes, because it ensures a steady stream of customers replacing prematurely worn out parts. Good for the bike trade, but totally bonkers for the planet.
Goldfever4
johnny1986 wrote:I feel I may
johnny1986 wrote:I feel I may not have explained the rear mech situation very well. I am currently on my third mech so have killed 2. The first died of mechanical failure when the metal around the main attachment bolt shattered and the mech flew forward into the spokes (shimano refused to accept responsibility however the UK suppliers did offer me a discount)This happened to me with a Campag mech last year – 4 months old, the rear mech hangar broke off and the chain tension pulled it through the rear triangle into the spokes – I was going about 40km/ at the time on a dual carriageway, lost 8 spokes, wasn’t much fun! Stayed up though, somehow. Hope your incident wasn’t too bad. For me it took a month to get sorted with the supplier, but apparently some old boy in Campag had seen it happen twice before so they repaired my bike and threw in some new hoops (I wonder what I would have got had I been hurt). Originally Campag tried to argue that I must have adjusted the mech so badly that I changed gear and this pulled the mech into the spokes – err, no.
Anyway, I have a new Specialized Tricross (Tiagra) and it’s serving me very well so far – good riding position, predictable point and squirt front end and the disc brakes are excellent when it rains. Also the tiagra groupset hasn’t set me wrong once. I do regret not knowing about the Canyon that has been mentioned but I’d suggest giving the Tricross a try.
philtregear
i have upgraded an old
i have upgraded an old derailleur bike with SA 3 speed/hub brake/dynamo wheels. I am currently making a customised ali chaincase for it. now that may be extreme, but it is borne out of getting fed up with failing gears and chains, filthy parts and crap rim brakes on my 20 mile commute on country roads in the winter.the point i am making is why not consider hub gears and hub or disc brakes??? genesis day one is now £1000 but, due to its success, it now has competitors. as a cheap self build, planetx do the kaffenback frame, which will take discs and hub gears. i priced a self build bike with an alfine 8 speed wheelset at approx £800 using this frame.
my SA 3 speed is yet to see the roads due to wanting to sort the chaincase first ( which is proving quite difficult). the 3 gears have a very wide ratio between them, so hills should be no bother. obviously, the more gears, the more choice for cadence etc. I just wanted to keep things simple but be able to survive hills and severe headwinds when knackered.
the weakness of my bike( and any hubgear/braked set up) over a derailleur will be when getting a rear wheel puncture. I am using 35mm schwalbe marathon pluses to minimise this eventuality.
The strengths are: virtually maintenance free; good braking in all weathers; no batteries to replace; no QR to lock up; definitely not a looker, so less chance of being nicked.
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