New bike advice

Quite obviously, the OP is
Quite obviously, the OP is looking for a modern bike but, FWIW, my choice of winter bike is incredibly comfortable, ultra reliable, requires almost no servicing, is surprisingly quick, and only cost me a tenner at a car boot sale a few years ago.

It’s a 1950’s Raleigh 3 speed, and it only adds 60 seconds onto my 15 minute commute, when compared to my modern hybrid. The only nod to modernism are the slime filled inner tubes (no punctures in five years). The chain, which sits in an oil bath enclosed chaincase, looks like new.

Ok, it it probably sounds a bit daft to you fast boys, but if you just want a bike to get you to work, and you’re constantly faffing around with modern parts that are designed to have a short lifespan, why not add an older bike to your collection, for riding around town in the winter? The money you save could mean you can afford a better race bike.

And, if you’ve never ridden a shallow angled steel framed bike from yesteryear, be prepared to be blown away by the ride comfort. Less punishment passes too.

I was thinking about this
I was thinking about this whilst I was running around with the kids today…

I [b]have [b]changed/replaced two rear mechs. However, that’s been the total in over 25 years of riding geared bikes.

I can’t help but think someone in a bike shop is ripping the proverbial out of you by diagnosing mech failure rather than manky mech syndrome.

Talking of rear mechs – I have a 90’s vintage 7/8 speed Dura Ace rear mech that looks almost brand new having been used for a few hundred miles before I went back to Campagnolo. It’s for sale if anyone’s interested.

Blimey Johnny, you are an
Blimey Johnny, you are an unlucky bloke. Or maybe you have a lucky mechanic?

My last commuter, and I mean last as I have just retired, was a £500 Boardman hybrid. It came with entry-level SRAM X5 gears and I fitted plastic mudguards and Randonneur tyres. What a machine!

I ran it for three years of twenty-five miles a day commuting over some of the worst roads in England. I never suffered a single mechanical problem, had three or four flats, and spent a maximum £35 per year on a new chain and cassette.

But I did take care of it. It was washed and lubed weekly and my Christmas holiday would invariably see me spending a day in the garage attending to both hubs, the headset and the jockey wheels.

When I finally finished work I gave it a quick polish and sold it for £150 to the first potential buyer. Looking back I wish I’d asked £200.

As said already with that
As said already with that many miles a year on one bike then I’d expect that wear on the drive chain and BB. I’d probably have replace the jockey wheels in the rear mech too but not the mech itself. To get through 3 is, I think, pretty unusual. You’re going to get that sort of wear on any bike, CX, road or hybrid. Bit late now but it’s cheaper to replace chains more frequently, a chain checker could save you a fair bit in the long term.

As for the wheels, see how the CX wheel you’ve got goes then when the time comes invest in a new ones rather than throw money at the existing ones. See what your LBS can build for you based on your mileage, and see what your frame will accommodate tyre width wise.

For the rear brake then check the cable is moving freely in the outer, if it isn’t then it’s time for a new cable and outer. Also give the brake a good clean. If poss remove it from the bike, remove the pads and give it a good scrub with a toothbrush and some GT85 or similar getting the spring freed up.

The wearing of your mechs is
The wearing of your mechs is weird, isn’t it? Do you cross-chain much, do you know? I imagine if you do, that’ll put more strain on things. How about your cadence? Is it quite low? I’ve heard that can contribute to component wear (and destroy your joints, but that’s another matter).

I ride 14 miles a day on
I ride 14 miles a day on average road surfaces. In the same time as you, I have replaced 1x bb, 1x front mech (both originals were cheap shit), 3x chain, 1x big ring, 1x cassette and stripped and serviced the rear hub once. My main issue is Scottish weather and the amount of crap that infects every part of the bike.

Max out your tyre size for the frame. This will cut out some of the road shock. Also, run tyres at a lower pressure eg 90-95psi for a 25mm
Clean and lube your drivetrain as much as possible. This is both curative and preventative.
Check all cables regularly (3 rear mechs is an abnormally high death rate)
Clean & lube brakes periodically. They do get gummed up.

Also…

Try another bike mechanic or get some classes for yourself. DIY can save a fortune.

To be honest, apart from the multiple rear mechs, your component replacement rate is fairly acceptable.

Regarding wheels though, reviewing tyres and the weight they are being expected to carry will help.