PDW Full Metal Fenders

I thought this was odd, until I realised the original article was from the  Stone Age. All seems highly dated when we're tending to move to wider tyres. Looks like 28 is going to be the new 'narrow'. I observed the benefit of this trend myself when the new disk equipped steel gravel bike arrived a year ago with 38mm, and I found it was only 5% slower than the Merlin titanium with 23s despite being considerably heavier, and me running 45 psi on the 38s(on a primitive gauge- may not be accurate, but it is precise and reproducible)

Yeah, there were 2 o-rings in the box of gubbins.  I just think that even the smaller of the 2 isn't tight enough as there's a massive gap between guard & seat tube.  I don't think it helps positioning if you're using a band-on front mech like I am.  Might give an elastic band a go!

I'm on 23 Conti 4 Seasons in terms of my tyres and I think I've located the rubbing - it appears to be comng from the section between rear brake & back of the seat tube.  I may need a stronger o-ring than the one supplied though as it's a bit rubbish and doesn't appear to hold that section of guard far enough away from the tyre.

The front one is perfect without any issues!  Very rock solid.

You need to fit them so they're not being pulled in different directions. It took me a little time to get them right, but they're great when they are.

The front should go on without a problem, it's the rear which may need tweaking. 

The rear needs to sit happily so it can be banded to the seat tube yet be clamped at the brake bridge. You may need some layers of tape as padding for it not to rattle against the brake or stay bridge. It still needs to be equidistant from the tyre at the back.

The seat band works best with a bit of insulation tape padding, which also serves to protect your frame from rubbing.

If you have a bolt hole on the chain stay bridge, some users drill the 'guard and attach it there, which negates the use of the seat tube band (sometimes the brake bridge too) and cuts that potential rattle out. 

Pics would obvs help too.

If they're rubbing then they need adjusting so they don't. Admittedly the allen screws to adjust them are tiny and on the underside of the stays which I found a PITA but I had mine fitted rattle and rub free quite easy.

What size tyre are they going over? I fitted mine over 25c on a single speed with no problems even allowing for the rear wheel to move backwards for removal.

Fitted these on Friday and when they're not rattling they're rubbing, and when they're not rubbing they're rattling.

Any tips from users on how to stop either?! They're fitted to an Allez e5 SL and are soon to go up for sale.

I have them on a Kinesis GF-Ti with 25mm tyres. Less faff fitting them than SKS. Though clearance is fairly tight, once they were set up they're pretty solid and I've had no problem with rubbing. Quieter than SKS as well and classier-looking.

You can get the mount in the PDW full metal fenders hardware pack, vanillabikes seem to be the cheapest.

Anybody know who the importer is for these? I am after the over brake mount not the full guards whech they sell as a separate kit.

Currently using lightly modified SKS guards with the normal style mounting bracket on my CAAD8. I just need an extra fag papers width of clearance on the back wheel to run a 28 mm with no rub which this mount bracket might provide.

I just got some of these for a Spesh Roubaix, they took me several hours to set up, I wasn't rushing though, but I can't even get a 24 mm tyre on the back without rubbing let alone a 25 mm or a 28 mm tyre, I think that is wishful thinking for most bikes because the Roubaix has more clearance than most. The rear rattles like buggery where the guard hits the brake bridge area. I put a tiny foam pad there which should solve that issue but of course it made the rubbing even worse. I have now put a 23 mm on the back and that seems ok but I haven't been out on it yet. I was using cruds before and they give more coverage on the seat tube and bottom bracket area so they keep the bike cleaner and they are much lighter and cheaper but not as neat.These do look good and they are sturdy so without rattle and rub (hopefully) I should be happy with them. The front one doesn't seem to rattle and works well with a 23 mm tyre, I tried it with a 24 but there is very slight rub.
Another thing to watch for is the stay bolts came loose on one of my rides and I had to come home because they take a tiny allen key that you don't normally find on multi-tools, so they need checking and doing up tight but I carry the tool now. Also, you have to remove the QR fully to get the wheels off, obviously, and spare hardware is available for about 15 quid if you lose anything. These guards are an expensive option but posiibly worth it, at least with 23 mm tyres.

I have been using these since Feb 13 on my Merida road bike and no issues, they fit well and look good to boot.

Just fitted these today so not been out to test them yet.

They were simple and easy to fit. I think they look as good as full length guards can.

Feel sturdy and they really are low profile.

Bought mine from Tredz - who provided a good service letting me know when they would be in stock etc. (Which they are now.)

Considering a pair of these for my winter bike - been looking for a neat set of alloy guards that are lowish profile but offer good coverage, and these seem to fit the bill.

Question - when you mounted them to the Equilibrium, did you mount them to the chainstay bridge, or use their special mount? And is there an alternative to the weird over-brake mounting? I'd probably just use the standard bridge mount behind the brake (I have a spare one knocking around) unless there's a reason it wouldn't fit...

Ive actually been searching high and low for a set like on this bike http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2118/2335974777_013d932b6b.jpg any suggestions?