[NickNorf]

Hi all. Apologies if this has been a recent topic – didnt notice anything on a scan through.

This summer, myself and a couple of friends, are, Covid permitting, cycling in the alps. Longest day likely to be around 70 miles, taking in climbs such as Grand Serre, Ornon and Huez. 

My question is what gearing would you suggest. I presently have a 52-36 chainset and 11-28 casstte. but have seen varying suggestions online of moving to a 50-34 compact, or 11-32 cassette. However, what im really interested in what you would suggest from your own experiances.

Fittness wise, im not a beginner, yet im not super cycling fit either. I am fairly slight, so I dont usually have much of an issue cycling uphill, though hills in the midlands where I am will differ greatly to the Alps! On Zwift I generally push out an average of around 210 watts for an hour, equating to around 3.0w/kg

Many thanks in advance!

Topic

[fukawitribe]

Secret_squirrel wrote:

If you are willing to experiement stay with the SS and try 11-32 with a longer b screw (ebay for a couple of quid).  If fails then update rear mech to GS.

..or a derailleur hanger extender online (~£5-20 depending on provenance), but i’d give the SS/longer screw a go as suggested – more than likely work (and try the B-tension screw round the other way if necessary/not long enough).

[Steve K]

That was pretty much my
That was pretty much my thought process in deciding to go for an 11-34!

[andystow]

I agree. The 32 would be

I agree. The 32 would be nearly 10% lower gearing.

[Daveyraveygravey]

NickNorf wrote:

Thanks – though edit, I havent got that derailleur, I have RD-6800 SS. If the 6800 is the same as 8000, then presumably I can go to 11-30. 

If so, what are thoughts on 11-30 for Alpine riding? Or should I get the GS derailleur and 11-32 casette?

Thanks again!

I don’t think you will regret going for the 32; if you “just” get the 30 there may come a time on a sunny day somewhere up a mountain, your head goes “Shouldda got the 32″….

[Jack Sexty]

Couple of articles to help

Couple of articles to help you out here Nick on top of all the useful suggestions already… 

road.cc/content/feature/how-get-ultra-low-gearing-gravel-bike-adventures-246424

road.cc/content/feature/need-easier-gears-heres-how-get-them-213519

Have fun in the Alps! 

[bobbinogs]

Wot he said ^
Wot he said ^

[PRSboy]

I’ve done a couple of Alps

I’ve done a couple of Alps trips, and am a 3xVentoux ‘Cingle’… 

I ran a 50/34 & 12-27 on one trip, which was OK.  I ran a 32 rear on the next two trips, which i have to say was more enjoyable.  I didn’t use the 32 that much (28 is ideal for me) but it was good to have some easier gears when I was a bit tired and just wanted to spin away and enjoy the scenery.  There is a lot of cumulative tiredness that will creep in as your trip progresses, and in my view its best to have gearing in reserve.  An 11 is useful on the descents… it gets surprisingly cold on the longer ones and its good to have some resistance to push against.

Anyhow, you’ll love it, Alpine cycling is just the best!

[Secret_squirrel]

If you are willing to

If you are willing to experiement stay with the SS and try 11-32 with a longer b screw (ebay for a couple of quid).  If fails then update rear mech to GS.

Shimano rear mechs are known for having quite a lot of leeway on the Max rear tooth. 11-36 (a Sram CX cassette) is known to work with the GS for instance.

[NickNorf]

Thanks – though edit, I

Thanks – though edit, I havent got that derailleur, I have RD-6800 SS. If the 6800 is the same as 8000, then presumably I can go to 11-30. 

If so, what are thoughts on 11-30 for Alpine riding? Or should I get the GS derailleur and 11-32 casette?

Thanks again!

[Drinfinity]

There is a calculator that

There is a calculator that uses simple physics to calculate the power output you need for a climb at a certain speed and height gain. So you could set up the climb you want, figure out a target time that you can achieve at your power output, then you get your speed up the alp.

Then decide what cadence you are comfortable with on a steep hill, and then you can calculate what gears you want to hit that cadence and speed.
 

https://www.broleur.com/hill-climb-calculator/

 

[andystow]

Yes.

Yes.

I’m running that derailleur, and have an 11-34 rear with 46/30 front. I’m right at the stated limit for capacity (39 teeth between big-big and small-small.) This gives me nice low gears for loaded bikepacking, 23.6 to 112 gear-inches. Without a load, I don’t think I ever use my lowest two gears.

[NickNorf]

Thanks all for your comments.

Thanks all for your comments. I THINK I have Medium RD-R8000-GS derailleur – theres around 60mm gap between jockey wheels.

Presuming if I plumped for a 11-32 cassette, that would be compatible with my derailleur?

[andystow]

Ultegra comes in at least two

Ultegra comes in at least two cage lengths

Short RD-R8000-SS 11-25 to 11-30 (rated)

Medium RD-R8000-GS 11-28 to 11-34 (rated)

 

[Drinfinity]

Ultegra will take a 42 on the

Ultegra will take a 42 on the back, my daughter has this on her 1x cx bike. My Cx bike with Rival 1x has road tyres on, and I have 34 on the front, and 42 on the back, so I can spin up the steepest hills round here. Road bike (on the turbo at the moment has 50/34 and 30 on the back, but I think I can get to 34 on Shimano 105.
 

Super low gears can get frowned on in roadie circles, and using anything over a 28 on the back is seen as a character flaw. Coming from an MTB world, where I have 9-50 12 speed, I don’t understand that.

[Daveyraveygravey]

The cheapest route is the

The cheapest route is the cassette, you may be able to fit a 30 or 32 tooth cassette without changing the derailleur – do you know what size derailleur you have?  It used to be common practice to change the chain whenever you were changing the cassette, not sure that is the case these days.  Bear in mind that what Shimano says is compatible can sometimes be conservative; people will say they have made changes that work fine.

You could change the front rings but this is usually more expensive and can involve moving the front derailleur.  

My previous bike had a 53-39 crankset and 12-25 cassette initially.  When the cassette wore out, I went to a 12-27, and eventually a 12-29, both made small but noticeable improvements in my ability to climb longer/steeper hills.  

It’s very hard to prepare for Alpine style climbs in the UK, there just isn’t anywhere you need to be in bottom gear for 2 hours or more.  It can potentially be very hot too, and that really takes it out of you.  I am lucky enough to be able to go to Abruzzo in Italy, which has the Blockhaus climb, which is similar to Mont Ventoux.  I thought I was a reasonable climber, but when you get to a proper mountain, it changes your perceptions!  The first time I tried I had to abandon about 2/3 of the way up, just didn’t have enough.  The second time I got to about 500m from the top but the road was covered in frozen snow and ice, you couldn’t walk on it never mind ride!  Third time proved lucky…

[Author]

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