Buying your carbon road bike wheels directly from Asia could save you a pretty penny... but are they up to the job? We wanted to find out, and if there are any compromises when you pay less.
We get loads of cool wheels turn up at road.cc from the biggest brands in the business: Roval, Zipp, Enve and Princeton Carbon Works to name a few. We’ve ridden them all and they’re mostly very good, but this latest set has seriously sparked our interest…
They have a 50mm deep carbon rim, they weigh about 1,350 grams for the pair, they have a very interesting feather pattern rim design, they have ceramic bearings hiding in DT Swiss hubs, and the super thin carbon spokes are 4.4mm deep.
So how much do you think they cost? Nope, they're not £3,000 like lots of other flagship road bike wheels, more like £1,200. So, what’s the catch?
Well, it’s little surprise that these are coming directly from Asia, and therefore plenty of people might be thinking they thinking they will break as soon as I fit them to a bike...
Superteam, though, say they have used high quality materials and advanced manufacturing technology to ensure durability and stable performance. They’ve also let me loose with a pair to see just how strong they are. Let’s get testing!
Set-up
Buying direct from Asia certainly doesn't mean that you have to compromise on features: wide rims, carbon spokes, even a solid rim bed, it's all the latest tech. Very often you'll find these latest features on direct-to-consumer wheels before the big brands get there.
As my ride may or may not be sticking to the roads, I think it’s a pretty good idea to set the wheels up tubeless. Thanks to the solid rim bed there’s no need for rim tape, which is very great news for me, because if there's one bit of bike maintenance that I’m not very good at, it’s taping up wheels.
I know that lots of readers will also be very happy to see that these wheels have a hooked rim design, which does make that sub-1,400-gram weight even more impressive.
This particular set that we're testing, the new Superteam S-All Carbon Evo II, have an internal width of 23mm and an external width of 30mm, which is just about perfect for the 28mm tyres that most of us now use on the road. Many people like to use the 105% rule, where a rim that is 105% of the measured tyre width is considered the fastest and most stable.
On the Superteam website, you also get all the usual freehub body options, and you can also choose whether you want a 6-bolt or centre-lock hub for the disc rotors. Ours are centre-lock, and there’s a 36T Dt-Swiss ratchet system hiding in the rear one, so plenty of engagement points for what we’ve got planned for them today!
On the road
You might be wondering why you would want to upgrade to carbon wheels. Well, compared to a stock aluminium wheelset, carbon wheels are lighter, they’re more aerodynamic and they’re stiffer, and that means I can go faster for less effort. Oh, and they also sound absolutely mega when climbing out of the saddle!
When it comes to speed, these wheels certainly feel fast. They feel stiff during accelerations too, with the carbon spokes playing their part here.
Obviously what we don’t want though is to trade off durability or robustness for this performance, and so today this is going to be no ordinary road test. I want to see just how strong carbon wheels really are!
Strength testing
Just to clarify, this is a road wheelset. The wheels are UCI-approved for road use, but to speed up this durability test we thought we'd better venture off the beaten track.
After taking the wheels on a spin around some rather bumpy woods, hammering along fire roads and bashing through potholes, it was clear that we'd have to try harder than this if we were to upset the Evo IIs. In fact, they were still running just as true as when they came out the box.
I checked and they were perfectly true, which is hardly surprising given how many quality control checks Superteam clearly did before shipping us the wheels.
Upping the ante
The thing with carbon fibre is despite being light, it is also extremely strong. Yes, we’ve seen horror stories, but you just need to look as far as Formula 1 or spacecraft to see just how bulletproof modern composites are. Actually, they do make bulletproof composites, don’t they…
The other great thing about carbon fibre is that you can create really interesting shapes. That feather pattern that we touched on earlier, according to Superteam, increases the structural strength and rigidity of the rim by helping to disperse the pressure and reduce the stress concentration points of the rim during use.
It’s also said to reduce air resistance, improve the aerodynamic performance of the wheelset, and make riding more efficient, especially at high speeds. Maybe we’ll test that in a future video.
Having decided that the wheels could easily cope with anything me and my road bike could throw at them, we decided the best course of action was to fit them to a gravel bike complete with dropper post, and borrow a youth with absolutely no sense of self-preservation...
Seeing the wheels being jumped (and occasionally cased) at Wind Hill Bike Park certainly left me confident that they’re not going break on me on the road any time soon. Carbon wheels are certainly strong!
I reckon the myth about all wheels coming directly from China being fragile is just that… a myth. While we wouldn't recommend jumping or abusing wheels meant for the road in this way, it does just go to show that they can withstand a lot more than your average Sunday club run.
Let's not forget, this is a lightweight road wheelset. They're designed for smashing up climbs and long rides, and yet Superteam is so confident in their manufacturing that they offer a three-year warranty on the rims, a one-year warranty on the hubs and lightweight carbon spokes, and they let us jump a pair in the woods.
How are Superteam wheels so much cheaper than other flagship wheels?
My final question to Superteam was: how can they keep their prices low without compromising on quality? Superteam explained:
1. They don’t have the same markup as wheels from more established brands
2. There are no middlemen here. You’re buying the wheels straight from the manufacturer which cuts out some costs
3. There are far less storage costs, because these wheels are basically made to order in whatever specification you wish. They’re not sitting in warehouses or shops losing value.
And that is how, if you’re prepared to wait just a few weeks for them to be delivered, you can get wheels that are made by people who have been making OEM wheels for years at a fraction of the cost.
If you want to find out more about these latest S-ALL Carbon EVO II wheels then head over to the Superteam website and use code RC05 for 5% off your first purchase
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42 comments
So.... whats Superteams returns policy.... and does the £1200 include import duty?
Seriiously sexy wheels I have to say...
It includes EU taxes, but website doesn't mention UK. Would have been useful if the advertorial made such things clear.
Agreed, they look good. However, no Campag freehub available unless I'm mistaken.
Can they take the strain of 110kg rider, and a 20kg e-bike over gravel, through woods, mud and rocks?
That's what I need out of a set of wheels
lightbicycle will do a custom layup that suits that use-case, if a rim isn't already in tolerance for that. nice kit.
Interesting - my shiny bike has wheels that fit the 'flagship' description. Not my personal choice, but they came with the bike in a big sale (rim brakes + round carbon tubes + 11 speed mechanical = huge discount).
So why would spokes break on high end wheels repeatedly? I'm 72kg and my power output is, frankly, weedy (not that I actually bother with these things - more of a chat with the person riding next to me who has a power meter).
I think we're on 5 broken spokes so far: They all break at the thread, unsurprisingly. One spoke even broke overnight. The wheel turns into a Pringle and is unrideable. The bike even got left behind for one cycling holiday as I knew I had no chance of getting it repaired if another spoke broke (OEM nipples only).
Because they break at the thread, changing all the spokes to non-butted made no difference. They all have a consistent 'ping'/tension that aligns with length/spec etc.
However, changing from 25mm to 28mm tyres does seem to have done the trick. Fingers crossed.....
It sounds like a batch of bad spokes, I'm about the same weight as you (1kg less!!!), have similar pathetic power output and haven't broken a spoke in 10+ years.
I'm what I would describe as a sympathetic rider (good at avoiding potholes etc.), although the roads around here are rubbish. I'm now on 32mm tires which are great and probably help a lot. The last time I had failures on a wheel was with alloy spoke nipples which are just plain rubbish and should be avoided at all costs.
Have you tried to release the twisting tension on the spokes (not sure what the correct term is). Take the wheel off and place on a hard floor with a rag or block of wood under the hub so you don't damage anything. Grab the rim on opposite sides and press down with a bit of force to unload the spokes on the floor side. You might hear them ping as the settle and twist to a neutral position. Work your way around the wheel a couple of times and then flip over and repeat. This should be done any time the spokes are tensioned or other changes made to the spokes. You are aiming to release the tension in the spokes, not bend the wheel so go steady!
Tried all of that - they've even had a complete rebuild with different spokes (plain instead of butted) and they still broke. Two different wheel builders involved too. I was even given a lecture by the shop after the first break about how important it was to check the tension of spokes etc. After every 300 miles? And with internal nipples? Wheel apart, tape off etc. And how about when they let go in the quiet of the garage at night? After that incident, and a strong indication that that repair was a one-off grace-and-favour repair, I went somewhere else.
Other than that wheelset, I've never broken a spoke (save when there was an unfortunate stick/rear mech/spoke incident). Many, many years on a bike....
I'm minded to think that an over-ambitious spoke tension spec by the manufacturer is the problem, which would account for the middle of the night failure.
Could be that the spoke angle on the rim is too extreme. A well known British seller of value carbon wheels reportedly had an issue with that on some of their wheels - with videos online showing the resultant cracks around the spoke holes / broken spokes that failed on the threads.
I was thinking that it might be this, if the wheel has been rebuilt (assuming that they didn't just reuse the existing spokes) there shouldn't be a problem.
Years ago I had a wheel supplied by a bike shop that would snap a spoke after just a few miles. I'd take it back in, they'd ask if I'd been messing with it (I hadn't) and they'd rebuild it, but it kept happening. In the end, I tried rebuilding it myself and figured out that the rim was unusable as it had a serious deflection and so the spokes had a wide variety of tension in order to try to pull the rim true. When I figured that out, I just got a new wheel and never went back to that bike shop.
almost sounds like the spoke holes were drilled at 0°/0° and not in alignment with the intended spoking pattern.
I bought a set if ICAN G25 on DT Swiss DT240 hubs in May 2023 for $1100 and have ridden them continuously over a season and a half with no issues.
They haven't needed to be trued up and besides a clean and regrease of the hub ratchet, haven't needed any maintenance. Highly recommended
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