Wheel recommendations?

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  • #32962
    andystow

    I’ve sung the praises of the value of my Mason x Hunt 650B Adventure Dynamo Disc wheelset, which has been on my bike since I built it in early 2020, over 16000 miles ago, and needed only minor truing, but at the beginning of my LEJoG I noticed cracks around just about every other rear spoke hole. Fortunately they held up for the whole trip, but I obviously need to do something about it before it fails on a ride. I can either rebuild with a new rim on the same hub, or just replace with a new wheel that has a Shimano 11-speed compatible driver.

    The current rim is 28 hole, 25 mm internal, 28 mm external. Disc brake only, tubeless compatible. Possibly looking for something with eyelets this time. I’d like to get something that will last at least double that 16000 miles. I run 48 mm tyres.

    A little deeper would be okay, not sure about carbon.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 38 total)
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  • #1023977
    0
    Simon E

    I can’t wait that long! Here

    I can’t wait that long! Here’s a series that any good vlogger / ‘grammer would surely recognise.

    1. unboxing video – that should have been uploaded by now. Get yer skates on!

    2. first ride impression (even if it’s just up and down the street)

    3. a review (you’ve ridden it a few times now)

    4. a long term or ‘proper’ review (you’ve ridden it for a while)

    5. what upgrade do I get to replace it? This can be either due to issues with the item or just ’cause you want to spend some money. For most people it’s the latter.

    wink

    #1023975
    0
    andystow
    Simon E wrote:
    It will be worth the time invested, I’m sure. Hoping that you’ll post a review of some kind.

    Based on my experience with the Hunt wheels, I might do a review on their durability in three or four years.

    #1023973
    0
    hawkinspeter

    andystow wrote:

    andystow wrote:
    Front wheel trued and tensioned last night. I think it took me well over an hour.

    It looks round to me

    #1023971
    0
    Simon E

    It will be worth the time

    It will be worth the time invested, I’m sure. Hoping that you’ll post a review of some kind.

    #1023969
    0
    andystow

    Front wheel trued and
    Front wheel trued and tensioned last night. I think it took me well over an hour.

    https://cdn.road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/PXL_20241114_215841615.jpg

    #1023967
    0
    Rendel Harris
    andystow wrote:
    Before my trip I trued the wheel with the zip tie trick. A truing stand makes it a little easier.

    Never come across the zip tie trick before, thanks to you have looked it up and docketed it, cheers. Have a stand at home but that’s a great one to know for an emergency.

    #1023965
    0
    andystow

    Before my trip I trued the

    Before my trip I trued the wheel with the zip tie trick. A truing stand makes it a little easier.

    #1023963
    0
    hawkinspeter
    andystow wrote:
    Oh, doing it myself is the plan. I’ve replaced spokes and trued wheels before. The co-op is a volunteer workspace (that I sometimes volunteer at) where you’re supposed to do your own wrenching, with the volunteers just being advisors.

    Bike Peoria Co-op

    They/we have a couple of good quality truing stands, as well as some other tools I’ll need like a headset bearing press, and bottom bracket facing tool.

    Excellent.

    I built my rear wheel a while ago with a 60mm Prime rim and some aero spokes which weren’t as difficult to use as I’d thought. When it came to truing it though, I ended up putting the tyre on, mounted the wheel on the bike and just eyeballed the tyre with the down-tube as my old truing stand probably won’t take thru-axles. So far, it’s been very solid and I haven’t felt the need to do any more adjustment.

    I did buy a cheap truing guage but haven’t got around to trying it out yet.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006437109220.html

    https://cdn.road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/S74072704785e48dfb3d7571f6adbd58cZ.jpg

    #1023961
    0
    andystow
    hawkinspeter wrote:
    Nice.

    I think you should give tensioning and trueing a go. Just take it relatively slow and try to tension each spoke roughly the same. It’s quite possible to true up a wheel by putting it onto the bike and eyeballing it so that the rim is halfway between the forks. It’ll be a learning exercise, prepare you for if you ever need to replace a spoke and then you can take it to the bike co-op to check how well you’ve done. As long as you don’t go too tight, it should save them some time.

    Oh, doing it myself is the plan. I’ve replaced spokes and trued wheels before. The co-op is a volunteer workspace (that I sometimes volunteer at) where you’re supposed to do your own wrenching, with the volunteers just being advisors.

    Bike Peoria Co-op

    They/we have a couple of good quality truing stands, as well as some other tools I’ll need like a headset bearing press, and bottom bracket facing tool.

    #1023959
    0
    anotherflat

    From that list only ever had

    From that list only ever had Mavics
    2 pairs Crossrides (disc only and a treasured early disc/rim brake)
    Broken a rear spoke and a rear axle, both replaced and retensioned.

    2 pairs Aksiums, worn out a couple of rims, and 1 pair tubeless ksyriums, only issue is tubeless, 2 rear tyres with punctures too big to seal in relatively few miles and nigh on impossible to get a tube in with the tubeless tyre without puncturing the tube.

    #1023957
    0
    hawkinspeter
    andystow wrote:
    I laced up my first wheel ever, new rim, spokes, and nipples onto my old SON dynamo hub. I still need to take it to the bike co-op to tension and true it. The rim matches the new hand built rear wheel, which is ready to go. The frame I used for LEJoG is out getting stripped and powder coated.

    Hopefully posting the results in the next couple of weeks on Pictures of your Bike.

    Nice.

    I think you should give tensioning and trueing a go. Just take it relatively slow and try to tension each spoke roughly the same. It’s quite possible to true up a wheel by putting it onto the bike and eyeballing it so that the rim is halfway between the forks. It’ll be a learning exercise, prepare you for if you ever need to replace a spoke and then you can take it to the bike co-op to check how well you’ve done. As long as you don’t go too tight, it should save them some time.

    #1023955
    0
    andystow

    I laced up my first wheel

    I laced up my first wheel ever, new rim, spokes, and nipples onto my old SON dynamo hub. I still need to take it to the bike co-op to tension and true it. The rim matches the new hand built rear wheel, which is ready to go. The frame I used for LEJoG is out getting stripped and powder coated.

    Hopefully posting the results in the next couple of weeks on Pictures of your Bike.

    https://cdn.road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/PXL_20241022_030312035.jpg

    #1023953
    0
    andystow

    David9694 wrote:

    David9694 wrote:

    If you pluck an uncracked DS spoke, what’s it feel like? 


    Looking carefully now, there is maybe one uncracked drive side one. It sounds and feels about the same as the others. I just measured them all with my Unior tensiometer. The spokes are 2.0-1.6-2.0. Using the closest values on the table (1.65), the drive side all measure 80-120 kgf. The non drive side measure 55-75 kgf.

    Checking a few random ones on the front, they’re pretty close to the rear drive side tensions.

    I see no non drive side cracks on the rear. What I do see now is seven cracks on the front, all but one on left side nipples. So I guess I’m rebuilding that front for sure.

    https://cdn.road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/PXL_20240925_033957972.jpg

    #1023951
    0
    David9694

    If you pluck an uncracked DS

    If you pluck an uncracked DS spoke, what’s it feel like? 

    #1023949
    0
    andystow

    I’ve placed an order with

    I’ve placed an order with Wheelbuilder. I took their recommendation, and also splurged a little but no big deal. The total was about $625 (£465) including shipping for a handbuilt in California rear wheel.

    Wheel Size: 27.5″ / 650B
    Rear Rim Model: DT GR 531 Disc
    Rear Spoke Count: 32H
    Rear Axle Type: 142 x 12mm TA
    Rear Disc Type: Centerlock Disc
    Rear Hub: DT Swiss 350 Classic Center Lock Disc Brake Rear Hub
    Rear Hub Color: Black
    Drivetrain Type: Shimano/SRAM 11 Road
    Points of Engagement: 36T Ratchet
    Rear Hub Bearings: Steel
    Spoke Type: Double Butted
    Spoke Color: Black
    Nipple Type: Black Brass
     

    I can buy the same rim in 28 hole for under $100 (£75) if I decide I want to lace one to my front SON hub and have the wheels match.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 38 total)
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