Alternative for shimano crank?

Themadchemist · 2022-07-03T17:31:16+01:00

Looking to replace my Ultegra 6800 crank/chainset on my S Works SL4. Replacing for 2 reasons.. going to 170 as it came with 172.5mm and all my other bikes are 170mm ,but also because I read more and more about breakages of these bonded cranks. But what do I replace it with? I'd like to keep the 24mm bottom bracket as,so far,it isn't creaking like some do in these frames. I've looked at Rotor,which do 24mm axles and do like the look and the fact I can go for oval rings... but they ain't cheap. Just thought I'd post to see if there are any other options.. or has anyone tried the new Shimano cranks.. have they sorted the problems?

This topic has 45 replies, 24 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 8 months ago by Themadchemist.

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July 3, 2022 at 5:31 pm #32161

Themadchemist

Looking to replace my Ultegra 6800 crank/chainset on my S Works SL4. Replacing for 2 reasons.. going to 170 as it came with 172.5mm and all my other bikes are 170mm ,but also because I read more and more about breakages of these bonded cranks.
But what do I replace it with? I’d like to keep the 24mm bottom bracket as,so far,it isn’t creaking like some do in these frames.
I’ve looked at Rotor,which do 24mm axles and do like the look and the fact I can go for oval rings… but they ain’t cheap. Just thought I’d post to see if there are any other options.. or has anyone tried the new Shimano cranks.. have they sorted the problems?
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October 1, 2022 at 11:07 am #994379
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Jimnm

I was in the same mind as you

I was in the same mind as you and about 6 months back I changed my Ultegra 6800 crankset for a 105 crankset it had 39 53 chainrings i have since bought a 50 tooth chainring and now I running 50 39 at the front and an 11/28.cassette suits me. The 105 crankset cost me £116 which replaced the 172 to 170 crank lengths

September 30, 2022 at 6:59 pm #994387
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Themadchemist

I had read that some Dura Ace

I had read that some Dura Ace cranks had also failed,which is bad for such an expensive item,and the reason i’ve gone for something different than Shimano. I think i’d better not cycle in Lancashire cos i’ve been known to swear enough to make a docker blush!

September 30, 2022 at 6:51 pm #994385
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Themadchemist

Thanks for this..and the link

Thanks for this..and the link. Looks like a great idea for when i need to replace the BB. I’ve not looked that closely at the BB,but expect it’s on the adapter that comes with the frame from Specialized? I’m sure i read somewhere that the frame comes with BB adapters.. i don’t know much about pushfit i’m afraid, which is why a Rotor 3D24 chainset is the easiest change for me.

September 30, 2022 at 6:38 pm #994383
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Themadchemist

That looks very nice. I have

That looks very nice. I have Campag 10 speed on one of my other bikes and love the way it rides/changes, but this bike has di2,which i’m also impressed with… seamless changes,so you change more because you dont even notice you’ve changed. I’ve plumped for the Rotor chainset ,mainly because i got a great deal on a second hand one. It comes with Q rings,which i’ll give a go if they’ll help my knees.

September 30, 2022 at 6:05 pm #994381
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jaysa

I’ve run a Campy Ultratorque

I’ve run a Campy Ultratorque chainset on my Supersix Evo, which I think is Pressfit, for the last 5 years – no creaks, changes great with a Shimano front derailleur, its lasting well and looks great I think?

Can sometimes find them in end of year sales – bought mine for £185…

September 29, 2022 at 8:44 am #994377
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The _Kaner

Themadchemist wrote:

Themadchemist wrote:
Just an update.. I bought the 5800 crank arms to use with some 6800 chainrings I’d bought last year. Turns out these chainrings are R8000,not 6800 as advertised,so they ended up on ebay and I’ve found a Rotor 3d24 with Q rings that will get fitted when I get the time during the winter. I’ll let everyone know how I get on with the Q rings when I use them next year. Again,thanks for all the help and suggestions

Did you find which BB is installed? Is the 24mm spindle running on adapters in a press-fit BB30/PF30 shell/bearing?

If that is the case and you want to replace it, then you could go for the Token Ninja kit. It will come with the suitable adapters for the BB30/PF30 shell and you’ll have peace of mind, knowing that you’ll have a “screw-in” BB. better to have the 24mm spindle load on bearings meant for a 24mm spindle, than on a 30mm bearing with adapters in between. This way the adapter interface is with the BB shell and it is all clamped together with the screw thread of the Ninja BB/.

https://www.velozone.co.uk/products/token-ninja-bb-3-in-1-package-bottom-bracket?variant=38539847696553&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjwhNWZBhB_EiwAPzlhNnsfQi3WjYjoB7UOIExzmq7Ic8fyrxMmRjIWVIMu9YCpXRGfrHRWkhoC6PQQAvD_BwE

September 29, 2022 at 7:47 am #994375
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Daveyraveygravey

OP, I had the exact problem

OP, I had the exact problem with the Ultegra 6800 cranks you are worried about. In my case, it wasn’t a sudden failure, it gradually got worse. In fact, I knew there was a problem for a few months, but it wasn’t obviously the cranks for a while, and I thought it was the bb or the rear wheel bearings until eventually the separation was visible whilst pedalling. One end became delaminated, but the other end was still attached.

This was 4 years ago, was a year outside the warranty, and although I had a bit of toing and froing with Shimano and Madison (the importer) they eventually replaced it, and it is still going strong.

From my experience, you don’t have to rush into a swap, you have time to research and choose what works for you.

September 29, 2022 at 7:16 am #994373
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srchar

hawkinspeter wrote:
spaghetti

That’s nothing. My Dura Ace crank failed just as my elbow was clipped by a passing car.

In Lancashire!

The police weren’t interested in the close pass, but did open an investigation into my excessive swearing. Luckily, I had cam footage to prove that I was swearing in the direction of the crank, not the driver.

I ride Campag now, and I’ll never return to Nob End.

September 29, 2022 at 7:11 am #994371
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srchar

New old stock Campag Potenza

New old stock Campag Potenza chainsets can be had for £150 to £170 online.

The cheaper ones seem to be PowerTorque rather than UltraTorque, but the later version, with a self-extracting bolt.

September 28, 2022 at 4:33 pm #994369
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Themadchemist

Just an update.. I bought the
Just an update.. I bought the 5800 crank arms to use with some 6800 chainrings I’d bought last year. Turns out these chainrings are R8000,not 6800 as advertised,so they ended up on ebay and I’ve found a Rotor 3d24 with Q rings that will get fitted when I get the time during the winter. I’ll let everyone know how I get on with the Q rings when I use them next year. Again,thanks for all the help and suggestions

July 19, 2022 at 12:29 pm #994367
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The _Kaner

If, as has been mentioned in

If, as has been mentioned in other posts, the SL4 generally runs with a BB30 set up, then go for Rotor 30mm crank and change the BB to suit.

The problem with fitting a bottom bracket to suit a 24mm spindle is that you’d need adapters. But, if the bike is designed to work with a BB30 originally, and is then fitted with a 24mm crank (cost? availability? – with adaptors), it makes sense to go back to the BB30.

Token do numerous Ninja BBs to suit, they’re not overly expensive, and once any pressfit (nuisance) has been removed, no more creaky BBs.

I have token BBs on 2 of 3 of my road bikes, and will certainly replace my 3rd bike BB with one when the time is due.

Ceramic bearings – I’m not overly sold on those either. The minute weight saving (for me) is not a consideration. Also some hybrid/ceramic bearings don’t have as good a seal as the lower priced (well engineered) cartridge BB bearings.

There are also a myriad of chinese cranksets, that share design cues and manufacturing premises to the likes of Rotor…

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002718458736.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.56ef2e0exSuBf3

July 19, 2022 at 9:55 am #994365
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vthejk

Good eye. The pin is a tiny

Good eye. The pin is a tiny bit too long indeed. Normally, I’d have ground it down a couple of mm but it was late, I had to readjust my front mech (going from 46 to 48T) and I sincerely couldn’t be bothered. At least you are the only person who’s ever noticed.

July 18, 2022 at 10:03 am #994363
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Inder

Should that big chainring be

Should that big chainring be installed so that the sliver pin that is sticking out is behind the crank arm? Or perhaps there isn’t room with the Rotor/Praxis combinantion….

July 17, 2022 at 8:14 pm #994361
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Themadchemist

You’re dead right on prices.

You’re dead right on prices. I do go used for the right price,but Sram RED new is still cheaper than some other options,like the Rotor i was looking at.. and lighter too. As i mentioned in another post tonight,i’ve found a cheap used 105 5800 crank that i can use my 6800 chainrings on as a stop-gap for this year.

July 17, 2022 at 8:06 pm #994359
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Themadchemist

This adaptor… is it pushed

This adaptor… is it pushed into the bearing from the outside,or do i need to remove the bearing and push it from the inside? If i need to start removing bearings i might as well get the correct bb for the gxp crankset… although this is something for next year as i’ve just bought a used 105 5800 crankset,which i can use with my Ultegra chainrings to add minimum weight. This is a temp solution so i can use the bike this year. Long term i’m looking at losing weight and the Sram RED looks to be the lightest option.
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