2014 Boardman CX Team… Does it do what it says on the tin?

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  • #21141
    Jack Osbourne snr

    Okay… Having decided pretty much within minutes of the launch of the 2014 range of Boardmans that the CX team was the next Cycle2Work commuter bike for me, the time has come to put the thought into action… Nearly.

    So… for those that have bought one, what do you think?
    Is it the great all-rounder it promised to be?
    Is it the perfect fast commuter?
    Are there any parts that need swapped out immediately?
    Are those wheels truly crap?

    and… most importantly…how did you get round the mudguard issue at the front? I think I have a couple of viable solutions, but these, like my assessment of the bike itself, are purely on paper at the moment.

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 49 total)
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  • #785987
    0
    Malc Wiffin

    Sorry, that’s a typo. Should
    Sorry, that’s a typo. Should be Nearside looks good 😐

    #785985
    0
    newtonuk

    Jack Osbourne snr wrote:The

    Jack Osbourne snr wrote:
    The good news is that you can swap in a Shimano xt hub and reuse the rim and spokes. Either diy it or get a wheelbuilder to put it together. Total cost of doing this will be 50-60 quid and give you a better wheel than the one you started with.

    This sounds like a good solution, as I understand it the rims aren’t “bad”, but the hubs are disposable, just like the BB5s as I’ve recently discovered.

    Is the XT hub directly replaceable? Does it have the same measurements and whatever as the Formula hub?

    #785983
    0
    Malc Wiffin

    Yes. Thanks for that. Seems
    Yes. Thanks for that. Seems to be the way to go short of spending twice as much for complete wheel. Even if replaced the freehub still got a dodgy nondescript hub and drive side looks sad even tho nearsighted is good.
    Cheers Jack.

    #785981
    0
    Malc Wiffin

    Have now been to LBS and they
    Have now been to LBS and they removed freehub without much bother. It’s an 11 mm Allen key thread which is unusual.
    Next problem is to locate another similar freehub. No makings on hub or freehub making the whole. Ensemble very non descript

    #785979
    0
    Jack Osbourne snr

    If the bearings were rusted
    If the bearings were rusted out, the bearing races are probably toast too. These hubs are disposable items and although “serviceable” will probably be shagged way in advance of your first “I’m going to check and service that hub tomorrow” thought… The reason being that the seals seem to be purely cosmetic.

    The good news is that you can swap in a Shimano xt hub and reuse the rim and spokes. Either diy it or get a wheelbuilder to put it together. Total cost of doing this will be 50-60 quid and give you a better wheel than the one you started with.

    #785977
    0
    CXR94Di2

    Malc Wiffin wrote:Hi.
    I have

    Malc Wiffin wrote:
    Hi.
    I have free hub that needs replacing or servicing as rear cassette rocks badly and throws chain off front mech. Bearings on drive side were rusted out after 1500 miles and replaced with loads of grease. When stripped wheel for free hub problem the grease on drive side was dirty brown , but near side was fresh. Can only assume water was coming out of free hub??
    Anyway my problem is I cannot undo the free hub bolt as cannot find a tool to fit it. It is not an Allen key, but it is splined.
    Tried workshop at work wit loads of tools, also Halfords, waste of time.
    Am now at point of buying new wheel but am reluctant to do so.
    Any ideas on removal please as am getting desperate.
    HELP.
    CHEERS.

    Generally Boardman use Formula hubs
    see here http://www.formulahubs.com/products.php?sid=22
    then research how to dismantle. Some require the end caps removing to get access to the nuts, but check first

    #785975
    0
    Malc Wiffin

    Hi.
    I have free hub that

    Hi.
    I have free hub that needs replacing or servicing as rear cassette rocks badly and throws chain off front mech. Bearings on drive side were rusted out after 1500 miles and replaced with loads of grease. When stripped wheel for free hub problem the grease on drive side was dirty brown , but near side was fresh. Can only assume water was coming out of free hub??
    Anyway my problem is I cannot undo the free hub bolt as cannot find a tool to fit it. It is not an Allen key, but it is splined.
    Tried workshop at work wit loads of tools, also Halfords, waste of time.
    Am now at point of buying new wheel but am reluctant to do so.
    Any ideas on removal please as am getting desperate.
    HELP.
    CHEERS.

    #785973
    0
    newtonuk

    When I bought mine it was
    When I bought mine it was advertised as being fully mudguard compatible, but neither Boardman nor Halfords were able to supply a mudguard that fit. I stayed in touch with both since October 2013 about it and eventually they released an updated fork.

    The solution I used until now was the bolt on Elite bottle cage mounts wrapped around the fork leg. It got me through two winters with SKS Chromoplastics.

    #785971
    0
    Jack Osbourne snr

    @ Newtonuk…
    How did you go

    @ Newtonuk…

    How did you go about getting the forks upgraded and how much did they charge you?

    #785969
    0
    Anonymous

    I’ve had a Boardman Team Cx
    I’ve had a Boardman Team Cx 2014 since it first came out. First thing I did was to remove the extra brake levers. I solved the front mudguard problem by using a set of race blade mounts rubber banded to the forks. The guards themselves are sks things with stainless stays. I had issues with paint in the threads which I had to remove with a tap. The BB is poor, maybe something to do with the bike being used as a commuter and CX racer. The freehub is rubbish (bearing surface is cheap and soft in the body), I ended up rebuilding the wheel with a shimano mtb hub instead. BB5s are adequate for what I need, may upgrade in the future when they need repadding. Plan to replace the BB with a Rotor BB30 to 24 converter. Overall happy with the bike for a commuter/racer/winter trainer.

    #785967
    0
    Puglet

    Cheers,
    I didn’t know they

    Cheers,
    I didn’t know they had produced a new fork, i’ll see if I can get it changed 🙂

    #785965
    0
    newtonuk

    I’ve just had my forks
    I’ve just had my forks upgraded to the new version which has mudguard eyelets halfway up the fork legs.

    If you haven’t used it I’d look to take it back and get them to order you one from the warehouse, which should have the new forks on.

    #785963
    0
    Puglet

    I’ve just got a CX Team on a
    I’ve just got a CX Team on a bike to work scheme, has anyone resolved the front mudguard issue, finding which one fits the best, I like the idea of the Elite bottle cage clips only which guards did you use with them?
    I chose this bike so as I can use it for occasional cross rides too, without mudguards, you’ve got to get grubby sometimes only not on the way to work!

    #785961
    0
    glynr36

    Jack Osbourne snr

    Jack Osbourne snr wrote:
    glynr36 wrote:
    Do any of you actually look after your bikes?

    Yes. I do.

    Do you ride a bike every day regardless of the weather or road conditions

    My CX is in use 5 days a week and is my normal mode of transport. The issues I have with mine are down to poor component quality or inferior setup at the manufacturer/retailer.

    I do as well, 5 day a week commute.
    Poor component quality, you get what you pay it’s a £1k bike, that you’re riding day in day out. Stuff will fail. Especially if you’re not giving it the attention it needs.
    My commuter gets more attention than my race bike, because it’s the one I depend upon on a daily basis.

    #785959
    0
    Jack Osbourne snr

    glynr36 wrote:Do any of you

    glynr36 wrote:
    Do any of you actually look after your bikes?

    Yes. I do.

    Do you ride a bike every day regardless of the weather or road conditions?

    My CX is in use 5 days a week and is my normal mode of transport. The issues I have with mine are down to poor component quality or inferior setup at the manufacturer/retailer.

    At 2100 miles, all I should be replacing is a chain (which I did at 1800)

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 49 total)
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