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I’m in the “don’t touch” camp – once the saddle is broken in and provided you keep the leather conditioned, it shouldn’t change. If you keep tensioning the leather, it’s like repeating the break-in over and over. It will eventually fail. Tension is to maintain the overall shape not the stiffness. The gauge is your posterior not your fingers.
If tension pins are bending it should be telling you there’s too much tension. Or alternately, your saddle may be too high and you are rocking, causing torsional loads on the pins and rails. Maybe a combination of both.
Will give that approach a go. Don’t think the state of British roads helps when the bike feels like it’s being bashed around about like a ship in a storm.
I’ve just logged in to register my hatred for my brooks swift saddle. It looks beautiful, which is why bought it, but its nothing short of a torture device. It’s pure evil, and thankfully its been tossed away in a box somewhere in my attic never to see the light of day again.Flog it on e-bay; they hold their value well.
Never had a comfort issue with the Swift but the Team Pro feels better; recall it was a design ‘spun-off’ from the B17 in the 50s/60s for racers, and the B17 is the one that (most) people find v comfortable.
Same thing happened to me
Same thing happened to me with a Lezeyne pump and Conti innertube. Changed the pump for a cheap Topeak Pocket Rocket; no flexi tube but that eliminates the problem and I can get a higher pressure (and it’s less sweat) than the Lezeyne.
Bike path; delivers you
Bike path; delivers you straight into Temple Meads. It’s like a dead flat time trial; you only have to slow down for crossings and the first one is at Bitton (going from Bath). Just get on the path and ‘tune-out’; nice and stress free. Occasionally a small peloton forms and you can share the load; regulars sometimes give each other a wave. I break off to N Bristol but I think the path gets a bit busier at the Temple Meads end, but so are the roads. The A4 through Saltford is OK but I wouldn’t go near the dual-carriageway bits, although some people do when the path could be icy; better to get the train and avoid an injury. The A431 from Bitton to Bath saves a bit of time depending on which part of Bath you’re going to; that said there’s Kelston hill which risks the chance of a dodgy car overtake when you’ve slowed up a bit. Reasonably easy to get a bike on the train iat Bath n the winter and cycle back when there’s less risk of ice. I spent 2 years heading S of Bath on busy roads and muddy, cr#p lanes and was overjoyed when I was back on the bike path. My bike appreciated it in the winter as the path is generally cleaner than the road. Some people have derestricted e bikes which go like a rocket, although I haven’t seen them for a while so the fun police may have intervened!
As a recent first time GPS
As a recent first time GPS bike computer user I went for the Bolt (Roam has come along subsequently) and very happy with it. I plan routes in Komoot and then sync that with the Bolt (Bolt and smartphone need to be connected to WiFi to achieve this). The only challenging scenario I can forsee is an ‘ad-lib’ route (ie unplanned) in an area I’m unfamiliar with; the Bolt black and white map isn’t that clear. There is a ‘take me to’ function through the smartphone app so, in conjunction with an OS map on the phone, I’d just make it up as I went along; it normally keeps you clear of busy A roads but takes the shortest route. Route planning on Komoot is dead easy so it’s worth spending time planning rather than rushing out on the bike and making it up. I think the Roam gets you back on your route if you deviate from it and the maps are colour which would help if you’re making up a ride as you go along in unfamiliar territory; otherwise the functionality is the same as the Bolt. The Bolt setting up was very easy and it ‘just works’. I’ve added a speed sensor (fitted on the hub) and it took about a minute to set up. If I was buying now I’d certainly give the Roam some serious thought even though it’s more expensive than the Bolt.
Bike Bath happened last
Bike Bath happened last weekend (I missed it); the route maps for the 50 and 80 mile rides are on the website (all out of Bath W into the Chew Valley and Mendips; v picturesque). The GPX files were probably e mailed to participants but it wouldn’t be difficult to build the route from the map and load into a GPS computer. Plenty of villages to stop at and the 80 miler went up Cheddar Gorge (nice climb); post ride feed in Bath. The routes normally avoid busy roads.
Just had exactly the same
Just had exactly the same problem with a brand new Conti inner tube last weekend using a Lezeyne Pressure Drive pump (with screw on tube). The core thread had 2 flats on it so I held that in my teeth and got it as tight as possible (was able to screw it back in – inner tube removed from tyre at this point). After inflating the tyre I slowly unscrewed the pump tube whilst pulling it away from the rim to avoid the issue of unscrewing the core as well.
Interestingly I could only get 70ish psi with the Lezyne pump which, when not connected to anything, has a lot of ‘resistance’ due to the rubber connecting hose. Have bought a simple Topeak Pocket Rocket pump which you have to hold onto the rim with your hand (ie no rubber tube); almost got to 100psi with it so much better than the fancy Lezyne pump. My LBS had good advice so happy to pay more than the interweb for a new pump.
I guess if 120psi of air
I guess if 120psi of air takes on a sharp-ish object, the tyre construction is pushed to it’s limit (especially if it ‘snags’ the tyre) so a lower pressure means there’s some ‘give’ and the rubber stands a chance. I went down the ‘zero punctures at all cost’ route on a town bike and ended up on the Schwalbe Marathon Plus which are just a behemoth of a tyre that weigh a ton (had enough of those rotating bricks).
Unless you are very heavy, 120psi is high… this will mean more punctures from stones etc.A friend had a similar experience with Conti 4S… was told by the bike shop to run at 120psi, but after a number of punctures dropped it to around 100, and has not had one since.
I’m only 86kg, which isn’t ‘super cruiser’ weight, so will give that a go.
Forgot to add that 2 of these
Forgot to add that 2 of these tears are on the thin recessed tread part of the tyre pattern; almost like something ‘snags’ it.
The Sunday Times ran an
The Sunday Times ran an article (16 Jun) about the increase in e-MTBs. Someone suggested (from the cycle hating land of the New Forest no less) that they damaged paths. Seems ironic based on the fact that motorbikes and 4x4s have been trashing byways for years and nobody has done anything. Horses do more damage to a bridleway than any MTB, incl e-MTBs I’d wager. Considering it’s a pedal-assist motor I wouldn’t put it in the motorised bracket but unless the law is clarified the anti-cyclists will exploit it. The article highlighted a person who, due to age and cancer, was able to keep cycling due to e-MTBs. If e-MTBs get more people into cycling, especially ones who are scared of road riding, then all the better.
Reminded me of growing up in
Reminded me of growing up in Africa in the 70’s; there were only 3 types of bikes, ‘sit up and beg’ with a 3 speed, steel racers and BMX made it’s first appearance (helped by ET). We used to ‘scramble’ our Raleigh racers around rough ground. There was the odd buckled wheel or welding job but my Mum sorted that out via a local mechanic; it was in her interest as the bike meant she didn’t have to ferry us about in the car (incl going to school). Bikes, probably even the carbon road bikes, can take more punishment that people give them credit.
I’ve used 32mm Schwalbe
I’ve used 32mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus for many years because I hate getting punctures whilst commuting; however they ‘weigh a ton’ so I’m thinking of giving Marathon Supremes a go. Good puncture protection, much lighter and good rolling resistance, but a thin side-wall which is an issue for some people. I reckon if you want lightweight, fast rolling and good puncture protection, you’re going to have to pay but there are always good deals to be had on-line.
Jack Thurston’s “Lost Lanes Wales” book might give you some ideas.
Reviewed here: https://road.cc/content/review/187142-lost-lanes-wales-jack-thurston
Preview of some of the book (including the overall map): https://lostlanes.thebikeshow.net/
Summary of five of the route, with links to GPS files and maps: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2015/sep/22/five-best-scenic-bike-rides-wales-snowdonia-pembrokeshireThe Lost Lanes books (Wales, West & South) are brilliant; load up the GPX file into your bike computer and enjoy a great ride. The routes never fail to delight.
‘Somethings gotta give’ in
‘Somethings gotta give’ in this era of cheap, convenient and accessible motoring with no such thing as an underpowered car. I bought an Audi in 2000 and everyone was ‘check you out’; common as muck now and even a bottom of the range car feels like a hot-hatch (compared to years ago). If the roads were a business, Health and Safety would have shut them down years ago. Manufacturers feel they have a social responsibility to minimise accidents and relying on drivers ‘goodwill’ to behave themselves is fantasy thinking. Cars ‘shout’ at you if you don’t put your seatbelt on, auto-braking and adaptive speed control is around, so speed-limiters, black boxes, mobile phone detectors, breathalyser interlocks and cameras are the next step. Guess the big change is that drivers are having freedoms removed. Tech wise it’s the logical step towards networked, speed-controlled roads and driverless cars. Company pool cars have telematics to enforce safe driving. Not sure it will reduce cyclist/car incidents but it’s a move in the right direction; imagine every car had camera/black box recording (that legally has to be on/working)? That would make motorists think twice before misbehaving.
