Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Pointless window-dressing.
Pointless window-dressing. Plenty of evidence that juries are reluctant to convict drivers who kill, and this will make it worse. It’s part of the reason the death penalty became harder to enforce in the 20thC – jurors didn’t want it on their conscience.
As someone who has lost two mates in RTCs what I’d rather see is life driving bans, properly enforced. Custodials are a blunt instrument for all but the scrotes who just don’t care. I recall reading (I think it was on Pistonheads) the experience of an “enthusiast” driver who was banged up for 8 years for killing a motorcyclist. Previously good character, professional job, never been in trouble with the police, not equipped for going inside. He deserved his time, but it laid much harder on him than it would on some of these “drivers” who we see convicted. There’s a strong correlation between really dangerous driving and other criminality.
If you’d just taken this bloke’s license away it would have hit almost as hard – and he would likely have complied with the ban too, particularly with the threat of a custodial if caught. That’s how they should be structured, a bit like lifers being out on licence. 5 year ban, and if you break it you go in for 5 years. Technology can play a role here too potentially.
Edit: the thread has gone now but it’s referred to here – https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/thought-provoking-driving-thread.62071/
Cranks locking up? Only in
Cranks locking up? Only in the context of the chain dropping off the outside of the big ring. I had this recently on my MTB. Had been in the big ring for a while, hadn’t made a shift and all of a sudden under heavy power the cranks locked, I lost control and had a half crash into some surprisingly comfy heather. Turned out that the chain had shifted outboard. Couldn’t work out how and still not sure but I also noticed that it had jumped off the top jockey wheel. Chain was jammed between the big ring and the mech cage and was resolved by back-pedalling the cranks just a quarter turn. After that it was fine to ride and everything worked well, even under the testing conditions of a lumpy MTB ride. Point is if it had been a full crash the partial drop could easily have resolved itself when the cranks hit the road. Obviously in this scenario it wouldn’t have locked the rear wheel but it might have felt that way and it’s certainly unsettling enough to make you lose balance and spit you off.
On the road I have a bell
On the road I have a bell that makes a delicate non-aggressive ding-ding (a Knog Oi). MTB encounters are rarer so I tend to slow, say good morning, and then say which side I’m going to pass them on. If path is narrow and we’re approaching each other I’ll usually just stop and wait, particularly with social distance perceived requirements. I can always do with a rest on MTB terrain?. Horse riders I call “cyclist approaching” and slow until they’ve acknowledged me. On the whole, it feels to me that MTB terrain users seem to be much more tolerant of cyclists, unless of course you encounter them in full Rachel Atherton mode…Did the cranks also lock?
Did the cranks also lock?This might be an option.
This might be an option. Square taper though so a bit heavier and would need a new BB – https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m8b0s109p2003/SPA-CYCLES-XD-2-Touring-Cranks
Spa might have some other options, as might SJS Cycles
Rule out wheel bearings by
Rule out wheel bearings by grabbing the tyre and seeing if there’s any horizontal play. If there’s none
pop the cassette off and check the freehub for wear/excessive bite marks. Reassemble, tighten the lockring to spec and take it for a rideIf it’s a Hollowtech BB
If it’s a Hollowtech BB/crankset – which it probably is then any Shimano left-side crank will fit. It might look slightly odd but it will be perfectly functional.
You can tell if it’s Hollowtech by whether the inside of the crank arm is flush against the bottom bracket, or whether you can see as square spindle (which means it’s a square taper)
The other option is just to replace the whole crankset – Sora or Tiagra aren’t that expensive and it’s a very easy job.
Yeah I got all my 6870
Yeah I got all my 6870 secondhand, it’s generally reliable and good value as people have been upgrading to R8000 disc setups.
@hereticv is the battery for your Di2 internal or external?It is definitely expensive to
It is definitely expensive to replace 6770 DI2 because parts are somewhat scarce and other than the shifters it’s not forward compatible with 6870 or the 8000 series. It’s almost at the stage where it’s better/cheaper to upgrade everything to 6870, which would cost around £400 from the secondhand market.
Your bike is likely to be fine in terms of frame integrity – it’s aluminium so doesn’t rust and is reasonably robust. And unless you’re riding in winter or on poor quality roads there probably isn’t the need to go with disc brakes.
Of the two wheels I’d go with the Hunts, simply because they’re more serviceable than the Mavics. They use standard hubs, spokes, and bearings whereas the Mavics don’t. And Mavic’s future is still uncertain. Hunts will have good resale value if you do end up switching to disc brakes later.
Agreed, any 9/10 speed ring
Agreed, any 9/10 speed ring will work fine provided it’s the same number of teeth and same BCDUpdate: spotted heading
Update: spotted heading across to the Purbecks on the Sandbanks Ferry yesterday morning, so may still be over that way, rather than in the Forest.
They’re completely awesome.
They’re completely awesome. Not the fastest delivery, but alongside Spa Cycles the only place you can get many service parts if you want to do the work yourself. I’ve bought so much stuff from them over the years – particularly touring-related things like weird mudguard accessories and dyno lighting kit. They’re basically the A-Team of cycle fettling.
They look pretty similar and
They look pretty similar and I’d personally go with the 54 with a stem 10mm shorter than what you’ve got on your TCR. That shouldn’t affect the handling too much. The critical measurement for me is the head tube length on the 51 Kinesis – 125mm vs 148mm is a big difference. Would mean that you’d end up running a lot of spacers under the bars if you went with the 51. Not necessarily a problem, other than aesthetics which may or may not be important.
The only thing I can’t tell from the geo is position of the saddle relative to the BB (I forget what this measurement is called but it’s as vital as stack and reach as getting it right provides your pedalling platform, and it’s not as adjustable, particularly with short setback seatposts). It’s generally a function of seat tube angle and saddle height, which is similar between the 54 Kinesis and your current bike. Are you currently running an inline or setback seatpost on your Giant? Is your saddle positioned at one of the extremities of travel or more or less in the middle?
That’s my point Nick – I know
That’s my point Nick – I know it’s inefficient but I’m favouring safety over speed/position because I can’t seem to master that restart. A dropper would solve that by getting the saddle out of the way so I can easily stand at junctions. And then restart standing on the pedals and pop the saddle back up once moving
Dropping off the front is OK,
Dropping off the front is OK, it’s the restarts that are the problem. Timing the push up on to the saddle particularly. When (road) riding I rarely get out of the saddle and nearly always climb seated. The only time I tend to stand is for very short rollers that aren’t worth shifting for.
