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Personally I’ve had paid
Personally I’ve had paid Strava subscription for many years, even back when you didn’t really get much extra for it, although back then it was only £2 per month. To me at the time it seemed only reasonable to pay something for a piece of software that I actually enjoyed using and felt I was getting some value from, and really nothing has changed there. There are however a lot of users that won’t want to pay for something they’ve been getting for ‘free’ for so long, but the hidden income from ads and data sell off are clearly not sustaining the platform. Let’s hope that the move away from a free service (in all but it’s most basic form) will encourage or at least enable the developers to improve the service and get some consistency to the platform. The past few years they have constantly changed so many features, and not always for the better. They seem to still be struggling to find a way of making it work as a business. At least the whole summit nonsense is gone.
Same here with South Wales
Same here with South Wales Police.
You are given a reference number when you submit footage or a report online through the GoSafe website, and are then told that due to the volume of cases they have to deal with that you will not be given any future updates, unless you are summonsed to court as a witness. Despite this you are still required to retain the footage of the incident in its original form on the device on which it was recorded! So I now have a couple of ‘spare’ memory cards sat here with recent footage on them, and a few more video files sat on my PC waiting to go back on a card if ever the case is taken further. Of course I have absolutely no idea how long that might take!
+1 for the Sunrace RX11
+1 for the Sunrace RX11 cassette option.
I have mixed and matched Shimano/SRAM 11spd cassettes on all my bikes without issues in the past, and am currently running a Sunrace RX11 11-32 on one wheelset, Shimano 105 11-34 on another, and SRAM on a third, swapping all the wheels between Ultegra 6800 on the road bike, and SRAM Force 1x on the CX bike as needed.
I have found no issues with the 11-34 cassette on the Ultegra 6800, despite it being officially limited to a 32 tooth, so I would expect an 11-36 to work fine on an R8000 mech which is rated for a 34 max. sprocket.
My regular commute includes a
My regular commute includes a tarmac costal path that frequently has sand blown onto it from the beach adjacent to it, and I also ride now and then in Pembrey country park (including the odd CX and beach race) that that has very sandy ‘soil’ with lots of the trails being very sandy. My main tip is basically the same as L3gion above, and that is get as much of your weight over the back wheel as possible. That coupled with FULL POWER and keeping as straight as possible are the main things to focus on. Look ahead so that you can control your speed before hand, avoid braking on loose sand, and be subtle with your steering inputs. If you do need to turn on sand, be aware that you can easily find your front wheel turns tighter than anticipated and tends to tuck under you, especially if the sand is soft and deep. The worst one for me is a thin layer of sand on the tarmac path, as is acts like tiny ball bearings meaning very limited grip.
4+ years riding tubelss and I
4+ years riding tubelss and I STILL carry a spare tube with me just in case, alhtough I’ve only ever needed it when a ride buddy used up both his spares on one ride and then got a third punture. Then I’ve also got a cheap ‘anchovy’ type repair kit in my saddle pack and a Lezyne Pressure Drive pump (with the hose) fixed behind the bottle cage on the seat tube so it’s nicely tucked out of the way.
Passed my driving test 28
Passed my driving test 28 years ago, but have never had the need for any other forms of driving license, although I have always had a hankering for a motorbike, but never committed to the training. I had an MX bike as a kid, and really wanted to get a 50cc when I turned 16 but bowed to my parents request to NOT ride a motorbike on the road and it never went any further. I guess they didn’t want me riding on the road like I did around muddy fields!
As well as the pushbikes (Road, CX, MTB x2) I also have a white van and a 5-series BMW estate. Turns out white vans and BMW’s do have perfectly functioning indicators, they just need to be used properly!
Alaska wrote:
After using Pro ones 25 and 28mm tubeless, I concur with your assessment ;)Probably a subtle hint to not buy such shite tyres.
I’ve been using 28mm Pro Ones for about three years. They do seem to be a little prone to small cuts from glass, but have otherwise been superb. I tend to seal the small cuts with superglue and have only needed a ‘proper’ tubless repair once. Dead easy to fit, excellent grip and roll quickly with the added comfort and reliability of tubeless. Certainly not the most durable of tyres available but the performance is worth it IMHO.
My various sets of Schwalbe
My various sets of Schwalbe Pro Ones and S-Ones with Stans sealant have given excellent reliabilty for the past three and a half years, but in the seat pack I still carry one spare tube just in case, two tyre levers (although the Schwalbes are dead easy to fit without levers) a small traditional puncture kit and a couple of Park Tools Tyre Boots. A decent mini pump (Lezyne HP Road Drive) clipped to the bottle cage is adequate, especially since running tubeless means you can use lower tyre pressues as well. I have wondered about also carrying some ‘anchovy’ type tubeless repair plugs. I never bother with CO2 cannisters.
+1 for Hunt Wheels. I have
+1 for Hunt Wheels. I have been extremely happy with my Mason X Hunt 4 Season Disc wheels for the past 3 and a bit years, and a friend has the 4 Season Gravel Disc which have been equally faultless for the past 2 years.
Hmmmm yes this is a situation
Hmmmm yes this is a situation where a well-meaning person with genuine intentions could actually make a bad situation worse, and speaking from experience I’m not sure what the right option is. As a cyclist and driver I like to think that I can appreciate the needs of both parties, provided that is that both parties have a similar opinion to me on what is right/wrong good/bad behaviour (which of course is debatable in its own right!). In recent times I have often found myself when driving along local roads/lanes and seeing a cyclist travelling in the opposite direction, with a car following closely behind, I’ve made sure that the oncoming driver can see that I am NOT intending to move over to allow them to make a close pass on the cyclist. I’ve done this by holding my position close to the white line, the intention being to make it clear that there isn’t room to pass safely. Almost all of the time this has been fine and the other driver has waited.
However this approach runs the risk of making matters worse if the other driver either doesn’t care or misjudges the space available, as occurred on one occasion recently. The other driver decided they were coming through regardless and literally forced through the gap. By the time I realised this and made evasive manoeuvres towards the grass verge the other car was already alongside the cyclist with maybe centimetres to spare. Thankfully relative speeds were not particularly high, and importantly there was no contact made but no doubt the cyclist didn’t enjoy the incident one bit, and I left feeling that I was partially to blame for putting the cyclist in this horrid position!
Would me moving left earlier to allow the other driver room to pass have made things better? Probably yes, but the pass would have still been way to close for comfort. Maybe just maybe this particular driver drove on thinking “ooops that was too close, next time I’ll wait a few seconds”. Sadly I assume that wasn’t the case.
So my attitude now is to simply hold a ‘normal’ line in the centre of the carriageway, not deliberately impeding anyone and not ‘making room’ for the other driver to pass, but being ready to move left if the other driver turns out to be a selfsih ignorant twat!
+1 for the G-One Speed,
+1 for the G-One Speed, excellent tyre in almost every respect, particularly when set up tubeless. The only negative is that it’s not the most durable of tyres.
4) Perhaps it’s the tubeless factor that’s meaning I’m only looking at “performance” tyres? The range is pretty weak, especially compared to MTB tubeless, and certainly doesn’t seem to offer me the option of the hefty tyres suggested by mattsccm.I’m tempted to try a set of Schwalbe Marathon Supreme Tubeless. The standard Marathon has a great reputation for durability and reliability, so a tubeless version could be a pretty good commuter tyre.
I am on my second set of
I am on my second set of Schwalbe S-Ones (pre-cursor to the G-One Speed) and mostly use them in winter for road riding and commuting, with the occasional trundle on gravel roads. I too have found that the rear wears pretty quickly and exactly as your picture. I would concur that although it is a little frustrating, I would not expect much better from such a relatively light weight ‘performance’ tyre. My opinion is that knobbly tyres like these will wear quicker when used mostly on tarmac, as the high spots (knobs) mean that the load is not spread across the whole tread like it would be when used on gravel/dirt. Also your back tyre is doing the extra work of providing traction for propulsion so is always going to wear out much quicker than the front. I tend to always swap my tyres front to back once the rear is starting to show signs of a worn strip down the middle to try and extend their useful life.
What kind of difference would it make if your crank arm is a few mm longer than my original?To be honest your son is highly unlikely to notice the difference of a 2.5mm increase in length, and it certainly won’t cause any harm. But I would suggest that if you have the one from Kil0ran that you replace both crank arms, not just the drive side so that at least both sides are the same length.
My Synapse came as standard
My Synapse came as standard with those same Mavic Aksium wheels. Decently built strong wheels, but rather heavy and pretty low spec for such a high priced bike IMHO. I already had some much lighter wheels with centrlock rotors already fitted and kept those, but the Mavics were also centrelock anyway. You should be able to take the rotors off your new bike and fit them straight onto the pro-lite wheels.
If the Aksiums turn out to be 6-bolt then you can use the adapters already mentioned above…
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-6-Bolt-Rotor-To-Centre-Lock-Hub-Disc-Adapter-SMRTAD05_87930.htm
