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Chris
Yes, good move switching to
Yes, good move switching to 28s. Will be a bumpy ride all the way so lower pressure will help and the slightly fatter tyres will cope better at lower pressure than the 23s.Chris
Trouble with them rules is
Trouble with them rules is there’s too many to remember without being obsessive.
Should take a lead from the Judeo-Christain faiths, who got it just right by concentrating on the main ten commandments and not going on about all the other little ones, like not shaving your face.
I wonder how the bible’s not-shaving rules fit with velominati’s rule 33?Chris
Simon E wrote:Chris wrote:the
Simon E wrote:Chris wrote:the 35mm wide tyres you have are 25% wider than 28mm ones, so 25% bigger contact surface and rolling resistance and 25% more weight.
Narrower usually means higher pressure as well, reducing contact/resistance even more
I believe that is incorrect. See my comments re. rolling resistance.Also, running high pressures can be counterproductive, particularly on rough surfaces. The tyre skips instead of the carcass deforming, so does not absorb the shocks so they are transmitted to the rider. Most people are better off running lower pressures.
lol, fair enough Simon, I did wonder if you’d come back on that.
I did preface my comment with “to put it very simply”, so it was just to get the general idea across.
I’ve seen those Schwalbe rolling resistance stats you linked to before, and they are very interesting and give a more informed approach to the issue, but are also entirely theoretical as they rely on the different width tyres having the same construction and profile and crucially being inflated to the same pressure, which doesn’t happen in practice.
The basic point is the switch from 35mm to 28mm will necessarily involve a higher pressure, narrower tyre with a slicker tread than this guy is currently using and will certainly reduce rolling resistance for all those reasons, which was the question that was being asked in the first place.
You’re right to say that narrower doesn’t necessarily mean less resistance, and of course comfort and shock absorbtion are a factor, but in practice changing to a narrower tyre also changes more than just the width, which is why you yourself recommend the switch to 28mm, as do I, and everyone else that commented, so I think we agreed on that anyway.
Hurrah!Chris
Yes, definitely agree,
Yes, definitely agree, changing tyres can make a huge difference.
To put it very simply, the 35mm wide tyres you have are 25% wider than 28mm ones, so 25% bigger contact surface and rolling resistance and 25% more weight.
Narrower usually means higher pressure as well, reducing contact/resistance even more, and a less pronounced tread will add to that.
As dave_atkinson says in his post above, the lighter weight of folding tyres makes a difference, and an added advantage is that because they aren’t as stiff they are also much easier to fit and remove, making a mid-ride puncture repair far less stressful.
Why not keep training on your 35mm tyres for now so you work hard and build fitness, then switch to some 28mm ones shortly before your 60 mile event to make it go easier on the day?
As for saving for a proper road bike, yes, do that too, but don’t rush it. A decent road bike will make a lot of difference compared to your fat tyred hybrid, so if you’re still loving riding after the sportive then you’ll no doubt be itching to try something more nippy, and by then you should have a better idea of what will suit your needs.Chris
If it’s genuinely unused and
If it’s genuinely unused and not nicked, and also happens to be the right size for you then that’s a nice price.
However, if you don’t already have the parts to build it into a complete bike that might cost another few hundred quid, plus labour charges if you need your LBS to fit the tricky bits.
So, consider the total cost and then remember that brand new 2011 Via Nirone 7 complete bikes start at £795 with a Sora group set and a full warranty!Chris
It’s not highly technical,
It’s not highly technical, but I wear an old hoody under my Endura Jacket.
The hood is big enough to go over my helmet (fnar) and drawstrings tied in a bow keep my mouth covered if necessary.
If it gets too hot I can pull the string and – Hey Presto! – no more head covering.I also wear 3 pairs of gloves at once and thermal bib tights under 3/4 baggies for maximum windproofing to the knees.
November 5, 2010 at 12:28 am in reply to: Which road lights are using on your commutes or training? #637843Chris
For commuting, we’re all
For commuting, we’re all impressed with the Moon X 300 from Raleigh. Nice and compact, bright output from a single CREE XP-G LED, although the beam is quite narrow. Decent handlebar bracket, low power indicator, mains or USB charging and most of all, cheaper than other rechargeable lights of similar specs!
Lasts about 3 hours on full beam (longer than the 2 hour claim no the box) and charges quickly via the mains adapter (haven’t tried the USB yet), so more than enough for a daily commute.
Down side – the one we tried doesn’t hold it’s charge too well, so if you charge it then don’t use it for a week or so it runs down quickly. Not a problem for a daily commuter.
Plenty of shops have these on offer at the moment too, due to a good deal from the supplier.
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