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That T-Nation article seemed
That T-Nation article seemed like educated guesswork to me as well.
But as long as we’re speculating, I’ll add a little anecdata: I ride fasted on weekdays (averaging around two rides a week over the last 18 months) just because I’m not hungry when I get out of bed, and that’s the time I have to train. I’ll have a sports drink and even pastries on longer rides. I tend to down the bottle as soon as I begin cooling down. I’ll add a protein shake when I get home on Z4 and sprint days. Judging by my recent PRs and weight group KOM on the most popular uphill sprint in town, as well as the stretch marks on my thighs, I’m really doubting I’ve lost any muscle. Judging by the fact that I’m still (though barely, now) in the chunkiest of Strava weight groups, I’d say fasted riding isn’t a weight-loss silver bullet either. On the other hand, I’ve been steadily losing weight on a diet that includes more than it’s fair share of burgers, croissants and gelato, so there’s that.
Hope that helps (although I struggle to see how).
Mostly just different
Mostly just different inflections of either “Good Day” at humans and “Dog” at dogs.
Unless you have ample time,
Unless you have ample time, it’s best to have an emergency option before the “break glass” option. It can also save you money long term. Early last year had a bit of a crash, banged myself up pretty bad coming into town (just bruises, thankfully). Called a cab, cab cancelled on me, and out of frustration I decided to reset my shifter and change my tube there and then. Ended up both messing up the handlebar tape and busting my tyre and the tube. It would’ve been cheaper and less frustrating to have waited for another cab. And thank God I messed up, as the hanger was busted (nearly invisible crack), so I could’ve easily ended up binning my derailleur and messing up my back wheel. As well as potentially taking another spill.
My repair kit strategy seems fairly in line with pretty much every other. I also use a very small Ziploc bag (think it was the bag my speed magnet came in) as a wallet, with a little cash, an ancient school ID and an (low limit, low cost) spare credit card as a dedicated cycling “wallet”. It’s actually quite brilliant: it weighs nothing, costs nothing, and does a great job keeping things dry. As to spares: multi-tool, spoke key, quick link, chain breaker, spare, mini patch kit, levers, extra hanger, zip ties and pump. That all takes a fistful of room, almost filling up my small saddle bag. It could carry two tubes, but I keep the tube in it’s plastic wrapper, so as not to screw up the valve or puncture the tube with my mult-tool, so I would have to squeeze things a little past what they should be squeezed. Anything that I can’t fix with that, then I go to plan B. Hasn’t happened again, but I think I’ve learnt my lesson and won’t hesitate next time. Again, I reserve the “dreaded phone call” as my plan C. Just for the most serious of incidents. And so as not to worry everyone about my “dangerous cycling hobby”.
Thanks, Jack. Was looking at
Thanks, Jack. Was looking at one of these and got a little confused about the fit, but at 6’1″, 15+ stone, anything but the XL would be overthinking it.
I’d say go for the Tarmac,
I’d say go for the Tarmac, you seem like the competitive sort, so it’s likely as good for you to feel like the bike isn’t holding you back, as it is for some of us to feel like the bike isn’t destroying our backs. Perhaps you’ll initally require a few spacers and a shorter stem. But that’s a great bike that should let you progress into gran fondos or proper races.
However, if the main use for this bike will be commuting, and you just want to be a little quicker on your nine-mile commute then do consider a racier endurance bike, just for the wider tyres and the disc brakes. Stark house words and all that.
I find a little negative
I find a little negative saddle tilt (saddle pointed down about 9°) helps with (lower) back pain for me, but YMMV wildly. Other than that as has been said that’s a pretty bog standard upright commuter position. I wouldn’t think there’s much you can do to make it any less stressful, and I wouldn’t worry about areo until you clear up your back issues. On an different note I’d suggest bar-ends, just for another hand position on a long ride. If your budget is tight I’m sure you could get a cheap pair secondhand for pennies.
TJuice, those are two
TJuice, those are two different things. For item number 2, which is what the OP is about, you can either do a test yourself (links are above ) or have one done by a Coach / Physio / Sport Scientist. FWIW your numbers look normal, and if you’re that familiar with them you might not get much out of training with just HR, you might want to start considering (as I am at the moment) training with power .
Items #1,3 and 4 can be addressed via a check up done by a cardiologist. In my case, it was a stress test (stress electrocardiogram) and an echo(echocardiogram), just to rule out any noticeable congenital issues. Quick and easy (a little too easy, I couldn’t quite get to my HR max indoors, but it was close enough). Talk it over with your GP.
It would be rare to be above
It would be rare to be above threshold for 28 minutes during a 8 mile ride unless you were riding most of that up a hill. It’s not unheard of, though, to be in zone 5 for most of a short ride if you were going full gas all the way (particularly if you were racing someone). But I do think it’s more likely you either haven’t found your real max or you have a relatively high treshold HR given your max HR (not uncommon), in which case you should set custom zones. That’s what I do since my own max is about 191, but my treshold heart rate is conservatively around 176, which is a little above what it “should be”. You should do a treshold test in order to really nail down your zones.
I don’t plan on bleeding the brakes if I can possibly help it… Last time I did that on my MTB was an unmitigated disaster when I didn’t RTFM and lost a teeny tinny washer.I hate washers as much as much as you do, so take my advice with a grain of salt. But just for context, last time I was in a shop (fouled my mech playing wrench) the mechanic told me my MTB (basically the same caliper as m785s) pads were a bit worn, so I went ahead and had them changed (surprisingly almost as cheap as online). But the lever travel on one lever was completely slack so I asked for a bleed (first one ever, wanted to see it done before trying it at home). The thing was, he had just run out of mineral oil. So he just started pumping it far harder than I ever have, [insert NSFW simile here], and voilà. He did say that if it started bothering me again I’d probably burnt the oil, but thankfully they’ve been perfect ever since (over a month and 15,000 ft ago).
The lever travel shouldn’t
The lever travel shouldn’t really change, just pump the brakes quickly several times and they should get back inline.
5,600km without a pad change is almost unheard of, but maybe you’re really light and you’ve been really lucky with the weather. But if there’s more than a mm left there’s surely no need to change then.
Only time I pass a shop on my regular long rides is the 6 miles out and last 6 miles back. Pointless either way.I could do 500 miles and not pass a shop on my route.
Leave it with you to work out why.
You live in the unconstituted locality of Radisson, Quebec?
If I’m anywhere close you should send me a water bottle as a reward. No, wait: keep it; you’d need it more than I do.
If the fit is anywhere close,
If the fit is anywhere close, I’d take the Trek for any actual mountain-biking. Fork + Brakes >> Gears, off-road.
To be fair, the Tetkro hydros on the Spec aren’t that bad, and triples are really old-school. On the flip side doubles on dirt are also old-school and I’ve never gotten on with SRAM FDs (but that’s a personal thing).
I’ll take about 1.25kg (750ml
I’ll take about 1.25kg (750ml+500ml), holds me for about a three hour ride.
Any ride longer than that warrants a cafe stop (or two) and a refill in my book. Bonking is something you proactively try to avoid if you live next to a decent-sized hill. As is carrying too much extra weight.
Consumption depends on many factors. “Drink whenever thirsty” seems to be the latest advice being tabled. I’m usually surprised at how little water flows through my system even on cooler days, so I gather I’m definetely not overdoing it.
If I was going on frequent long hot weather rides I’d consider one of those triathlete saddle things, they seem far more comfortable and secure than those under-bike tourer holders (though they’re surely far less cool). They also fit two extra bottles.
Something which I often wonder is…You find an awful lot of anti-compulsion feeling on cycling forums, and an awful lot of “a helmet won’t really protect you” stuff, but when I’m out and about, the only cyclist I see without a helmet is me.
Each to their own, but where are all of the helmet-freedom campaigners? Maybe they’re all commuting in cities, rather than slogging it over t’moors…
…anyone?
I wear a helmet when riding for fun, I don’t when I’m commuting or going to the shops. When riding it’s not particularly inconvenient, it don’t find it significantly different than wearing a hat. Even on a transport ride, if it’s long enough I’ll put the lid on. What I dislike is having to log it around when walking.
What I dislike even more are measures that reduce the amount of cyclists, and compulsory helmets certainly qualify.
And what I despise to no end is the victim blaming that oft follows when a cyclist not wearing a helmet is hurt or killed by a careless driver, based on the marginal chance that wearing a helmet might’ve helped. I can’t even imagine what that would be like if helmets were made compulsory.
Yeah it’s odd that there isn’t a sophisticated portal to submit evidence to the police and report crimes. Bet their systems are mad dated.Most government systems are dated before they’re even delivered. But this week we learned that the US nuclear arsenal relies on computers with floppy drives. Après ça le déluge.
