[stephenc]

My son has been given a Shimano ultegra but the threads on the right crank are knackered and I’m going around in circles trying to find the correct extraction tool and a new crank with pedal.

I’m now wondering if it’s worth the effort as it seems to be quite an old bile. Can anyone identify it please? Does it have any value? Would it be worthwhile getting the pedal welded to the crank rather than messing about with it trying to locate parts?

I’ve posted an image of it under my account.

Thanks, Stephenc

Topic

[crazy-legs]

The bike is a Specialized

The bike is a Specialized Allez Comp from 1999. Came with a NINE speed Ultegra groupset which is the 6500 code.

I think the pedals are on the wrong way round from your description of LH and RH threads so you’ve probably completely buggered the cranks and pedals.

Your options depend on what you’re going to do with it. If it’s just going to be a pub bike, you can probably leave it as is and accept that your bodge will probably fail at some point. If it’s going to be an actual commuter / leisure bike then it’s worth getting a new (or new old stock) chainset and pedals. You can pick up a s/h chainset like that one for about £40 off ebay or you could get a new BB and chainset for not much more than that, it’ll still work with 9sp.

Not sure if you bought the bike like that or have adjusted it to fit, but the saddle is way too low for the frame size by the way.

[David9694]

I really don’t like the look

I really don’t like the look of the glue-ing : I wouldn’t ride it. 

[Drinfinity]

So I think it is Octalink V1.

So I think it is Octalink V1. But the pictures I can find of the matching crank have self extracting crank bolts.
 

Can you post a photo of the centre of the crank arm? And also the inside face of the crank at the pedal end. The crank model number is usually stamped around the pedal hole. 

[Drinfinity]

I think @Kevvj is on to

I think @Kevvj is on to something. The graphics match the Allez Comp from 1999, which according to this site has a 6500 Octalink bottom bracket.

https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?item=86355

The tool I posted will work but you would need the top hat shaped plug to go in it (which is what I have). Alternatively the CWP-7 would do  both Octalink and and square taper. 
 

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/park-tool-compact-crank-wrench-and-puller-cwp-7/

There were two flavours of Octalink (as I discovered to my cost after chewing the splines on the wrong one). I’ll have a look which one you have.

Pedals are all the same*, but LH pedal unscrews left hand thread, right hand pedal is standard right hand thread.

*apart from some obscure bmx ones

[stephenc]

My son has been in touch with
My son has been in touch with the previous owner and he is suggesting that the bike is either a “shimano sora or 105s”.

Would this throw any light on confirming the specific replacement crank, pedal and extraction tool?

In an ideal world it would be good to have identified these in case it cannot be successfully helicoiled.

[Anonymous]

It’s probably an Octalink

It’s probably an Octalink bottom bracket not a square taper

 

[stephenc]

Thanks matthewn5, but it’s

Thanks matthewn5, but it’s not this type as shown in the YouTube video.

[pockstone]

I hope it holds. Begs the

I hope it holds. Begs the question, what state is the non-drive side in, if it’s got the drive side pedal screwed into it? I would look at replacing the crank set as soon as normality (or close to) returns.

[matthewn5]

Good call, your eyes are

Good call, your eyes are clearly better than mine!

[Drinfinity]

I don’t think it’s a 6600

I don’t think it’s a 6600 crank either. It  has a self -extraction threaded hole at the axle, to fit a square taper bottom bracket. Looks more like a 600. The bulge at the end of the crank matches too.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133377314617

Crank removal tool £12

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-cotterless-crank-puller/

Whilst the crank is off, I’d replace the bottom bracket too if there is any roughness (or it might be ok if you are lucky).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391420053872

 However it might be seized in at that age and will probably put up a fight. You will probably need to bolt a BB removal tool to the axle so you can use a very long spanner and a gorilla to get it out. If you do it without the bolt there’s a good chance the splines will just round out.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Seized-Bottom-Bracket-Removal/

 

[Drinfinity]

Hang on – the spare pedal has

Hang on – the spare pedal has a left hand thread? Now we understand why the threads in the crank are so chewed up!

Drive side crank is standard right hand thread, non-drive side is left hand. Sounds like previous user managed to mash the pedals in the wrong side.

 

[matthewn5]

Although that looks a good

Although that looks a good job, I’d be wary of using it for long, since if it lets go, the results can be a crash.

You can get him a replacement Ultegra crankset pretty cheaply, in due course, or just a right hand crank. The model number of the complete crankset is FC-6600:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC1.A0.H0.Xultegra+FC-6600.TRS0&_nkw=ultegra+FC-6600&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=ultegra+CS-6600

They sell complete for about £20-40 depending on condition, and it’s a doddle to remove the old one and put in a new one. You only need an allen key for the two bolts on the left crank, and a plastic tool to undo the plastic bolt that holds the left crank on.

Note that there’s a small plastic safety clip in the slot between the two bolts that needs to be removed before the crank will come off:

[stephenc]

A big thanks to everyone here

A big thanks to everyone here who has helped and advised. This has helped me to make a decision on it.

As all the local bike repair shops are closed here, I thought I’d try a repair so I got some 2 pack Epoxy Weld glue. In answer to pockstones question, the pedal was already off the bike when I got it. It’s on a left hand thread and I think there was around 2 threads left at the furthest point, so I cleaned it all off, slathered both the pedal and crank threads with the glue, inserted it and tightened it carefully on the last 2 existing threads. Then is placed a washer in the inside as a gripping point and added more glue. Not the prettiest repair but will hopefully hold out. I took it out on a short ride around the block and it felt firm enough.

I’ll get the bike back to my son tomorrow and see how it goes. Again, a big thanks to everyone for help and advice.

[David9694]

My guess is that it’s a 6600

My guess is that it’s a 6600 model of crank, about 15 years old. you should find that stamped on it somewhere.  

take pockstone’s advice in the first instance

if the pedal is able to jiggle about in the hole, a simple recut of the threads with a tap is unlikely to work. If it partially engages, it might be worth a try. tap and die sets, being a general engineering item, are surprisingly cheap.

The repair cost by way of a helicoil and that of a direct second-hand replacement crankset aren’t that far apart. (check Highpath Engineering).

I tried to DIY this once  – I got there in the end, but the precision jig is vital – the new arrangement only has to be a tiny bit “off” for it to feel all wrong when you pedal. 

 

 

[Anonymous]

and Specialized website might

and Specialized website might have an archive section to look up the exact model year.

[Author]

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