[HoldingOn]

Reasonably new to cycling and definitely new to bike maintenance. Bought a cheap Voodoo Limba for my commute to work (its part muddy canal path, part road) – have covered about 4,500km on it and noticed a “clank” when I sometimes turn the pedals. There is a bit of lateral movement on the cranks – so I figured I need to replace the bottom bracket.
Went on the Voodoo website, no helpful details of the bottom bracket: “Bottom Bracket Thread BC: 1.37 x 24T”  The shop i bought it from gave slightly more details: “Bottom Bracket: Sealed, square taper, 68/122.5mm”
I’ve then taken the bottom bracket out of the bike and it says: 68 L:113 C:22.5
I’ve then measured the axle and it is 113mm long – so I’ve purchased: “SHIMANO BB-UN300 bottom bracket British thread, 68-113 mm”
Have I gone wrong? Do different manufacturers have different measuring techniques?
I think I’m going to have to start keeping a piece of paper with the actual specifications on them!

Topic

[Rendel Harris]

HoldingOn wrote:

I am most definitely a cycling convert. I didn’t realise how much I hated sitting in my metal box staring at the lights of the metal box in front of me. On my bike I have a set of people I say hello to every day. I get to see the sunrise. I see wildlife. I once saw a deer bounce across the canal path, jump into the canal, swim to the other side and scramble out. Not once did I see that in my car!

What a lovely response (rather better than the original passive-aggressive comment deserved), a great reminder of why we need to keep pushing for more and better infra as so many people would join the ranks of the “converted” if they had the chance to experience the joy and freedom of riding, and they’re only going to do that if they feel safe.

[StillTrying]

ChuckSneed wrote:

ChuckSneed wrote:

Upgrading a Voodoo bike is a fool’s errand. Eventually you will have replaced every part except the frame, and the frame is the worst part of it. Just save money you would spend on upgrading it towards a good bike. Cheers.

Mmm. Bile duct playing up? Any danger that one day you might offer a constructive, upbeat – dare I say – helpful comment, Mr. Need?

[andystow]

I have over 13500 miles on my

I have over 13500 miles on my SKF, and can’t detect any wear. They come with a ten year warranty, which includes the bearings.

[ktache]

Whilst unlocking my bike this

Whilst unlocking my bike this evening at work, I remembered my square taper bottom bracket installation, been so long, those things last so much longer than the hollowtechs, the non drive size has no flange and mine have always had a couple of threads showing, not a huge amount, but it never went fully in.

[grumpus]

mike the bike wrote:

mike the bike wrote:

you may start to fit whole groupsets to your machines.  It’s what most of us do

Really? The closest I’ve got to that is fitting a matching gearset and hubs, (Ultegra, Deore XT) I used SRAM X9 gearset and cranks on one … it’s fun building a new bike with a good groupset, I’ve done a few including some very shiny Campagnolo, but I never felt that it would meet my specific requirements, or that my bikes needed added bling.

[Simon E]

HoldingOn wrote:

HoldingOn wrote:

I am most definitely a cycling convert. I didn’t realise how much I hated sitting in my metal box staring at the lights of the metal box in front of me. On my bike I have a set of people I say hello to every day. I get to see the sunrise. I see wildlife. I once saw a deer bounce across the canal path, jump into the canal, swim to the other side and scramble out. Not once did I see that in my car!

Yes, it’s absolutely effing FABULOUS! 

[HoldingOn]

I didn’t expect to be giving

I didn’t expect to be giving a review of the Limba, but:
If I won a substantial amount of money on the lottery, would I buy a Limba? No. Don’t be silly.
As a first foray into a cycling commute that is a mix of roads and muddy canal paths – I have been very happy with the Limba. I’ve managed to fit a pair of SKS Speedrockers to it. I’ve added M520 clipless pedals. I put Schwalbe anti-puncture tyres on it – dropped from 37mm down to 32mm. I cover the 11km commute on the bike in the same time it took me to drive it.

I am most definitely a cycling convert. I didn’t realise how much I hated sitting in my metal box staring at the lights of the metal box in front of me. On my bike I have a set of people I say hello to every day. I get to see the sunrise. I see wildlife. I once saw a deer bounce across the canal path, jump into the canal, swim to the other side and scramble out. Not once did I see that in my car!

[grumpus]

Voodoo bikes are perfectly

Voodoo bikes are perfectly adequate entry level machines, and there’s no harm in tweaking the spec a bit if you feel like it. Obviously bike snobs are going to sneer at them, but there’s a lot of people who laugh at bike snobs too. It’s not the bike, it’s the rider.

[kil0ran]

This is a good instructable

This is a good instructable on building a tool although the Sealey one I linked is probably cheaper and you can stand on the handle if it’s particularly stuck (not an issue in your case).

https://www.instructables.com/Seized-Bottom-Bracket-Removal/

[HoldingOn]

I tried it with the drive

I tried it with the drive side in and with it completely out, but I was a little pressed for time. I plan to try again this weekend when I hopefully have a little more time.
Really useful tip to use a quick release bar to hold the tool in place – I had been wishing for a third hand!
I am slowly accumulating more tools as I go. Some have been handed down from my dad, some I had from doing plumbing work around the house.

[kil0ran]

I bought a Calibre Two-Cubed

I bought a Calibre Two-Cubed during lockdown which bore little resemblance to the spec listed on the website and was a lashup of various low-end Shimano MTB drivetrain parts. I guess the average buyer wouldn’t have noticed but I did and they gave me £100 back which made it even better value than it already was. 

[kil0ran]

Looks to be a perfectly good

Looks to be a perfectly good commuter. Voodoo bikes are usually pretty good and well thought out for our riding conditions. Huge clearances, external routing, space for rack and guards, what’s not to like? I had a Bizango for a while which was a great intro to MTB for me.

[kil0ran]

A couple of things spring to

A couple of things spring to mind.

Firstly, and I’m sure this is the case because you mention pedal direction, the drive side cup tightens anti-clockwise and the NDS conventionally clockwise.

Second, try unscrewing the drive side slightly, does that then let you fully screw in the NDS cup? If so then back out the NDS side a little and tighten both sides alternately. If you happen to have two BB tools then you can do it simultaneously.

Certainly you have the right replacement BB as the dimensions printed on it match. When it comes to square taper to a certain extent the axle length isn’t a factor in whether it will fit – for example fitting a longer axle merely moves the cranks/pedals further apart which can help reduce heel strike on chainstays or simply with comfort/efficiency. That probably accounts for the difference in what you found fitted vs what was listed in the specs by Halfords. It will be down to supply chain issues probably and simply what was available at the time. If the old BB NDS lockring is metal then you can probably use that instead of the nylon/plastic one. I far prefer them as they’re less likely to strip. Getting one of these tools if you’re regularly working on ST BB’s is well worth the reduction in risk of stripping either splines or knuckles.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193931593764

[kil0ran]

Go very easy with the nylon
Go very easy with the nylon/plastic lockring on the non drive side, they’re very easy to strip. A square taper BB with a locator pin can help or if the tool you’re using has spanner flats you can clamp the tool through the BB using a wheel quick release.

[Dnnnnnn]

BB threads get pretty gunky –

BB threads get pretty gunky – in extreme cases, they need to be re-cut with a tap tool. For more average cases, a wire brush run around the threads can clear out debris that fingernails won’t. A smear of suitable grease on the new cups too, of course.

[Author]

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