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jimzy.
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June 20, 2012 at 11:41 pm #16130
Just wondering if anyone has advice or hints and tips on doing a time trial without aero bars.
I am competing in a series of Time Trial races, but do not have aerobars. Is it more aerodynamic to have your hands in the drops and be as low as possible or have your hands in the centre of the bars, again as low as possible?
Any other recommendations or advice would be much appreciated!
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The clock time was 20:05 over
The clock time was 20:05 over the 13.5k (8.5m?) flat route, my garmin time was 19.56 🙂 My average speed was just over 40kmph (25mph?). Happy enough with that, the fastest I’ve been so far on a spin of that distance.Yeah I agree joemmo, I’m sure there is a lot I can do in terms of setup and conditioning to get more aero. Dropping the height of my handlebars possibly?
joemmo
never mind the position –
never mind the position – what was the time? 🙂
To echo your experience I recently did my first 10 mile TT and fitted some aero bars but used them only about 60% of the time. I found that I was more powerful on the drops which I reckon is down to a) bike setup and b) conditioning – You need to adjust your bike so the aero position is as comfortable / optimal as possible then train yourself to ride in that position so you adapt to it.Hey all thanks for all the
Hey all thanks for all the really helpful tips and comments. Did my second short (13.5km) TT last week and finished 9th. Found my most powerful and sustainable position was to be in the drops with my arms tucked in as close as possible (but maybe should be in the hoods or draped over the handlebar judging by the comments here?). Average heart rate of 183 over the 20mins…must learn to pace myself a bit better! 🙂On the night the guy with the fastest time was on a road bike without any aerobars, disc wheels, etc. Most of the others within the top 5 were on TT bikes, so goes to show, its all in the legs really! Gonna have to keep training harder! 🙂
TheHatter
Thanks Simon E, that was I
Thanks Simon E, that was I think the jist of the comments I heard – I think it was during tour of Beijing as TT specific bikes weren’t allowed.Personally I don’t bother with aero bars when I compete in my clubs TT’s as its more a challenge against myself (…and yet I still lose most of the time!)
Simon E
TheHatter wrote:During a
TheHatter wrote:During a eurosport commentary it was mentioned that one of the teams had done wind tunnell testing and found that getting low on the hoods was preferable to using the drops.
It’s about the rider’s frontal area – you are likely to punch a smaller hole in the air with your arms horizontal than the more ‘open’ posture of reaching down into the drops.David Millar has used narrower handlebars when he has felt it provides an aero benefit.
http://cyclinginfo.co.uk/blog/3945/cycling/time-saved-from-weight-loss-on-bike/
At 25mph compared to this the difference 1 or even 2kg makes is insignificant, and even when riding uphill. If you’re really bothered about saving grammes then go on a diet.
During a eurosport commentary
During a eurosport commentary it was mentioned that one of the teams had done wind tunnell testing and found that getting low on the hoods was preferable to using the drops.MalcolmBinns
In my experience to go
In my experience to go faster, in this order:
1. Aerodynamics. Reduce the riders drag – Position (i.e. Aerobars), make yourself less ‘draggy’ (helmet, tight fitting clothing, shoe covers, loose weight/bulk).
2. Aerodynamics. Then reduce bike drag – get decent rubber, get a deep section front wheel, then finally a disk/deep rear wheel.
3. Mental approach. How far can you push yourself. It will hurt to go fast(er).
4. Power to weight. All things being equal, for the same power a lighter bike+rider will win. Loose weight from yourself (cheap) then the bike. Add power by interval training.
dave atkinson
aero position *and* less
aero position *and* less weight is the ideal, of course. and different components have different weight/aero gain/cost equations.but tt bars are a complete no brainer. they can save you a minute over a ten-mile TT. a MINUTE.
matt637
here’s your new tt bike Brad
here’s your new tt bike Brad – yeah, sorry it’s 1kg heavier than your last one, but don’t worry you’ll not notice it on the flat!
Without wanting to get in to a big debate, and wanting try and offer this guy some useful advice, the point i am trying to make is that all other things being equal – it’s best to ALSO keep weight down. But if we are working on a budget and just want to get that aero position sorted – get your hack saw out, chop your steerer tube so there’s no spacers, get a cheap -17 deg stem and get down reeeeeally low.step-hent wrote:matt637
step-hent wrote:matt637 wrote:those cheap ebay ones don’t seam a bad weight at about 485g. Just be careful if you get some bargain ones that they don’t weigh a ton and offset any gains made by your new aero position – it’s all about small fractions especially on a short tt.Depends on the course really – on a flat course, the weight will make barely any difference but the aero advantage will be significant. If it’s hilly, the weight comes in the play more, but you’ll probably still get more benefit from the bars – think of it as less than an extra water bottle…
yes sure, but the point i’m trying to make is not end up strapping loads more weight to your bike than you need to – that’s why tt bikes are usually light. It’s best if you can get the aero position *and* less weight. Don’t forget the psychology as well 😉
Simon E
matt637 wrote:those cheap
matt637 wrote:those cheap ebay ones don’t seam a bad weight at about 485g. Just be careful if you get some bargain ones that they don’t weigh a ton and offset any gains made by your new aero position – it’s all about small fractions especially on a short tt.
Aero trumps weight every time, component weight is insignificant unless it’s very steep. The weight of the lump on top of the saddle is far more relevant, remember you’re lifting yourself up that gradient as well as your bike.Lighter wheels can ‘feel’ faster, but I’m not sure that you’ll notice a big difference on a typical course.
step-hent
matt637 wrote:those cheap
matt637 wrote:those cheap ebay ones don’t seam a bad weight at about 485g. Just be careful if you get some bargain ones that they don’t weigh a ton and offset any gains made by your new aero position – it’s all about small fractions especially on a short tt.Depends on the course really – on a flat course, the weight will make barely any difference but the aero advantage will be significant. If it’s hilly, the weight comes in the play more, but you’ll probably still get more benefit from the bars – think of it as less than an extra water bottle…
those cheap ebay ones don’t
those cheap ebay ones don’t seam a bad weight at about 485g. Just be careful if you get some bargain ones that they don’t weigh a ton and offset any gains made by your new aero position – it’s all about small fractions especially on a short tt.Gkam84
Like Dave, i’m not one for
Like Dave, i’m not one for spending money on anything I don’t feel helps me.If I was you, I’d get myself a cheap set of clip on bars, then you don’t have to worry so much about getting into an “aero” position between hoods and drops
Something like this would do
Simon E
On the hoods with arms flat
On the hoods with arms flat behind can be tiring to maintain after a while. I’ve usually raced in the drops with my elbows in and my nose on the stem if possible, moving to hoods (but still keeping low) for any climbs or corners/junctions.Either way, if you find a position that you can maintain then you will be able to focus your mind on your effort.
I like my T2 aerobars but riding in the drops didn’t stop Alf Engers doing a 49-minute ’25’ in 1978:
B-)
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