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Which Canyon? Decisions, decisions..!

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  • January 25, 2018 at 6:16 am #28071
    Cbw85

     

    Ok so I’m mulling over a few options while waiting to order a new canyon, which I think I’ve narrowed down to an ultimate.

     

    The leaders are:

     

    cf slx disk di2 8.0 at £4500

    Cf sl disk di2 8.0 at £3500

     

    Now the SLX is listed at 7.8kg & the SL at 7.3kg… I’ve checked the wheels and there is a 300g difference. Hmm.

     

    I really want aero wheels and the SL only has dtswiss with a low profile so would consider buying an aero set of wheels & selling the DTSwiss from the SL. Other option is to ditch disks and go for the SLX 8.0 Di2 at £3800

     

    I think I need to go try out di2 & disks at a LBS to make I want them..what are peoples thoughts? 

     

    I’m also looking at the aeroad (I originally wanted an aeroad but am leaning more to the classic look of the ultimate plus I live in a very hilly location..) 

     

    Last consideration is the factory outlet..has anyone got an experience of this?

     

    Thanks! 

     

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  • February 1, 2018 at 5:21 pm #910859
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    Cbw85

    Thanks for the reply..

    Thanks for the reply..

    im thinking now of the sl 8 and buying some Hunt carbon wheels and selling the DT Swiss. Presumably the wheels will just go on the same? 

    January 29, 2018 at 8:15 pm #910857
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    Luke skywalker

    I have the canyon ultimate cf

    I have the canyon ultimate cf sl 8 disc di2 and it’s fantastic, in my opinion the vast extra isn’t worth it for the slx, the stock DT Swiss pr1400 wheels are also fantastic, think people are too obsessed with carbon wheels (purely aesthetics?) the wheels are light and stiff, fantastic all rounders, I live in the Yorkshire dales and the bike is a climbers dream in fact it does everything really well and comfortable too on long days,  if I was buying a bike today knowing what I now know, I’d buy exactly the same again, I got mine in the early year sale Feb/March reduced from 3500 to 3000, delivery was about 3 weeks. Watch the sizing, I’m 6’3” and my other bikes are xl/60 but the sizing tool put me on a 58/l and it’s perfect, di2 has been faultless, my lbs charge £15 for diagnostic/problem solving so even if I had a problem it’d be no more expensive to sort than a set of cables, but to date no problems just updated it regularly via pc, I wouldn’t go back to mechanical needless to say or in fact rim brakes, as it stands it requires little maintenance other than tyre pressures, pre ride is seconds these days.

    January 26, 2018 at 8:44 pm #910855
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    Grub
    Cbw85 wrote:
    I
    Grub wrote:

    If it’s any help:

    Bought a Canyon Endurace Ultegra Di2 from the Canyon factory outlet last Jan. Arrived with no problems within 7 days. Everything needed was included.

    I reckon if there is the bike you want in the right size, is in the factory outlet, defo go for it.

    sound, thanks for that. Was a grade 1 you got? These ones sound like pretty much brand spankers, no use.

     

    No probs.

    Brand new bike. Was a 2016 model, being cleared out in Jan 2017, so nice juicy discount. 

    January 26, 2018 at 7:19 pm #910853
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    Cbw85

    I

    I

    Grub wrote:

    If it’s any help:

    Bought a Canyon Endurace Ultegra Di2 from the Canyon factory outlet last Jan. Arrived with no problems within 7 days. Everything needed was included.

    I reckon if there is the bike you want in the right size, is in the factory outlet, defo go for it.

    sound, thanks for that. Was a grade 1 you got? These ones sound like pretty much brand spankers, no use.

    January 26, 2018 at 5:04 pm #910851
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    Grub

    If it’s any help:

    If it’s any help:

    Bought a Canyon Endurace Ultegra Di2 from the Canyon factory outlet last Jan. Arrived with no problems within 7 days. Everything needed was included.

    I reckon if there is the bike you want in the right size, is in the factory outlet, defo go for it.

    Re. Di2…brilliant. Spend all winter missing it on my winter bike. I’d actually argue it’s less hassle than mechanical given that once indexed (very easy), you don’t need to fiddle with them again. Charge lasts ages and the changes are so easy compared to mechanical (even high spec). The example of this for me is when you need to combine braking for a junction at the bottom of a descent with changing up the cassette ready for moving off…just a gentle tap of the  finger. Of course others may disagree..

    January 26, 2018 at 12:53 pm #910849
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    700c
    part_robot wrote:
    You don’t really give up LBS support; Canyon UK offer excellent support and you can just pay your LBS for help/stuff like a good cyclist.

    I don’t think it’s quite fair to say ‘you don’t give up LBS support’. The reason they are cheap is that they cut out the retailer network. If there’s a warranty issue then of course there’s no local shop to deal with it.

    They may well now have excellent customer support for UK customers (previously had issues reported on this site). 

    I’m not saying this approach is bad or anything (I’d certainly consider it, having built up and serviced my own bikes), but it may be a consideration for some.

    January 26, 2018 at 12:11 pm #910847
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    sergius
    part_robot wrote:
    Re sergius’ comment about indexing the rear mech on Di2 versus mechanical… I don’t agree; I can twist a barrel faster than I can press-and-hold a little button hidden under the stem and tap the levers back and forth. Mechanical rear mechs are in practice identical to Di2 in performance – faster actually due to multiple cog jumps possible with mechanical – and adjusting (once the cable’s taught!). Front mech however… That I do miss. Dura Ace 9100 front mech is an absolute arse to set up and you don’t get a tired left hand with Di2. I also slightly miss syncro shift.

     

    There’s definately an element of user error here, but I seem to really struggle to get the indexing just right.  Admittedly it was much worse on the 10spd Tiagra on my old bike than the 11spd Ultegra on the new one.

    January 26, 2018 at 12:01 pm #910845
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    part_robot

    You don’t really give up LBS

    You don’t really give up LBS support; Canyon UK offer excellent support and you can just pay your LBS for help/stuff like a good cyclist.

    Re Di2 versus eTap; I very very slightly prefer the feel of the changes of the Dura Ace 9120 Di2 (due to split second eTap boot up time), but I’d definitely get eTap as it’s much easier to fix and debug than digging out Di2 cables from the frame and testing them all for issues with specialist equipment. Plus it looks better.

    Re sergius’ comment about indexing the rear mech on Di2 versus mechanical… I don’t agree; I can twist a barrel faster than I can press-and-hold a little button hidden under the stem and tap the levers back and forth. Mechanical rear mechs are in practice identical to Di2 in performance – faster actually due to multiple cog jumps possible with mechanical – and adjusting (once the cable’s taught!). Front mech however… That I do miss. Dura Ace 9100 front mech is an absolute arse to set up and you don’t get a tired left hand with Di2. I also slightly miss syncro shift.

    January 26, 2018 at 10:04 am #910843
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    700c

    I’ve heard Canyons are very

    I’ve heard Canyons are very good value & quality though not ridden one.

    If you’re concerned about weight, then discs will not exactly help, so may as well go for the cheaper one if you have to have discs. 

    Unless you decide to go rim brakes in which case may as well go whole hog on the weight weenie option – a leftfield suggestion here: Giant TCR Advanced SL 0 Di2 for £4999 on sale online in M…6kg all up if it fits! smiley

    LBS support – that’s what you’re giving up by going Canyon so I don’t think it’s fair to go trying out. And if that’s very important with warranty etc then try another brand e.g. like a Giant dealer, above.

    January 25, 2018 at 10:21 pm #910841
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    rando

    Thank you Wellsprop and

    Thank you Wellsprop and rogermerriman for the information.

    sorry to the OP for taking thread off  topic . 

    January 25, 2018 at 9:52 pm #910839
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    rogermerriman
    rando wrote:
    Question to all the cyclists with disc road bikes – Is there ant special precaution you take when removing the front wheel for transportation ? I mean i have to take my front wheel off to get my bike in my car and do this frequently. Do you do anything special to stop the pads from moving together while the wheel is out ?

     

     

    The bike will almost certainly come with a bit of plastic to stop the pads from moving together, I’ve never bothered thus far I’ve yet to accidentally do this, in the last 12 years.

     

    Assuming you change the pads yourself which is easy, you’ll probably have to push the pads back etc, which is easy to do, the risk and hassle of the pads moving together is overstated to be honest.  

     

    January 25, 2018 at 9:50 pm #910837
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    Canyon48

    rando wrote:

    rando wrote:

    Question to all the cyclists with disc road bikes – Is there ant special precaution you take when removing the front wheel for transportation ? I mean i have to take my front wheel off to get my bike in my car and do this frequently. Do you do anything special to stop the pads from moving together while the wheel is out ?

     

    Shimano have a specific orange spacer thing for just this. They come with the bike if you buy from canyon.

    January 25, 2018 at 9:43 pm #910835
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    rando

    Question to all the cyclists

    Question to all the cyclists with disc road bikes – Is there ant special precaution you take when removing the front wheel for transportation ? I mean i have to take my front wheel off to get my bike in my car and do this frequently. Do you do anything special to stop the pads from moving together while the wheel is out ?

     

    January 25, 2018 at 9:32 pm #910833
    0
    Cbw85

    Right it’s 100% disk brakes

    Right it’s 100% disk brakes then! 

    I think it’s either a sl 8.0 ultimate di2 disc & buy some aero wheels for it or go for the aeroad slx 8.0 disk di2..  yes

     

    what are aeroads like for climbing? I live in Sheffield where climbing is the done deal! 

    January 25, 2018 at 8:58 pm #910831
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    sergius

    I’m probably buying myself a

    I’m probably buying myself a Aeroad for my 40th birthday soon 🙂

    Torn between the CF SLX DISC 9.0 SL and the CF SLX DISC 8.0 DI2.  My heart says ETAP, my head says the Ultegra Di2 is sufficient.

    I’ve got already:

    Mechanical Ultegra w/ Disks

    Electronic Ultegra w/ Disks

     

    As an owner, I can tell you:

    – I’m never buying another bike without hydraulic disk brakes

    – I spend the whole winter missing my electronic gears on my best bike.  Other than where its not cost appropriate (i.e. my winter bike), I’m not buying mechanical again.  You never have to adjust it (I HATE indexing RDs), you never have to replace cables, you never have to worry about trim – IT JUST WORKS.

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