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Anyone riding 52/36 with 11-32?

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  • April 6, 2017 at 3:00 pm #26984
    MarkOne

    I have 52/36 with 11-28 cassette and was torn between which to replace to tackle some nasty hills here.. Long story but I’ve got an 11-32 cassette and going to try it with the semi compact…
    Does anyone ride this? Is there much difference to an 11-28 in the middle cogs? I read changing gear from 28 into 32 is a bit of a clunker?
    I could always get compact chainrings later when I’ve saved money (oval when i start laying diamonds) … I’m new to cycling.. It seems I do need to start laying diamond eggs quite soon!

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Viewing 15 replies - 16 through 30 (of 41 total)
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  • April 8, 2017 at 12:13 pm #890797
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    MarkOne

    Haha easy guys – I’ve only
    Haha easy guys – I’ve only been cycling three months, and am still losing some fat – I won’t be leading anyone out in the Paris-Roubaix tomorrow!
    Hit the hills today.. 20%+ gradients I was down to 50rpm (actually 0 a couple of times – but it peaks at 39.2% according to strava, so if anyone can spin that at 90 I’d like see!)… And it was 107° real feel by the time I finished! Some improvement with the 32, but I think I’ll need 34/50 on the front… The Thais save concrete by not making switchbacks!

    April 8, 2017 at 10:28 am #890795
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    graybags

    When I had my bike built up I

    When I had my bike built up I speccd a semi compact with 11-28 cassette, but with a long cage derailleur to cope with a 32. I’m doing the Fred next month and have swapped out to the 32 to give me a gear of last resort. From general cycling around where I live (Chilterns) I’ve not noticed any significant change in the most regularly used ratios, nor when I went down to the Mendips a couple of weeks back for some hills !. Also, I have found no need to lengthen the chain when fitting the 32.

    April 8, 2017 at 7:51 am #890793
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    CXR94Di2

    Okay,Okay,  I might of

    Okay,Okay,  I might of slightly over egged the pudding, a littlewink.  I did drift out of my heart rate zone, but felt comfortable at 90rpm,  strava estimated I peaked at 1200Watts  

    Gearing, yes 28 chainring and 32t cass.  I used a 11-40 cass when I rode up Mt. Teide, I was quite comfortable in the mid 80s rpm after several hours of climbing.  

    Gear down and spin up for a way more comfortable ride.

     

     

     

    April 7, 2017 at 10:54 pm #890791
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    Anonymous

    28t chainring with 32t

    28t chainring with 32t sprocket (not a 32-28) is 6.2mph at 90rpm on a 25c tyre, on a 16% slope in zone 2 that’s elite level.

    Agree with above though, keeping the legs spinning around is not only less fatiguing but it helps to keep your balance when the speed really drops, it’s hilarious to watch some of the pros struggling because they didn’t get a low enough gear and could just get off and walk quicker instead of caning their legs/lungs trying to push a gear that’s way too high and barely making any forward progress/nearly falling off.

    @4:28 in this on Honister is a fairly good example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Y-DG7A2eqo

    Wasting energy moving all over the bike/being out the saddle because you’ve nowhere to go gear wise compunds matters IMHO and can really mess with your head knowing you’ve more hills to come and that’s the easiest it’s going to get leg wise!

    Oh and the 28-32 jump, big jump but like most of the cassettes these days they aren’t really designed for the non elite/tourists, the prevelence of 11t starting sprockets is ridiculous and has virually no function in the vast majority of people’s cycling.

    I had a 14-30 8 speed Campagnolo cassette a few years back, with a 46/40/26 it was perfect for  touring, no big jumps and a decently low/high for pretty much everything I was going to do.

    Those using a 40/42t sprocket now I think is insane, it’ll get you up a hill but the massive ratio jumps, no thanks, it messes your cadence up no end.

    April 7, 2017 at 8:37 pm #890789
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    Jackson

    CXR94Di2, I suggest you get

    CXR94Di2, I suggest you get on a ferry tomorrow and get yourself to Paris-Roubaix. Provided you stay in Zone 2, you could break solo from the start and comfortably get in about half an hour ahead of Boonen. 

    April 7, 2017 at 8:13 pm #890787
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    Carton

    CXR94Di2, a long hill of 16 %

    CXR94Di2, “a long hill of 16 % at 90 rpm” in zone 2? At 100kg on a 32-28 that’s somewhere around 585W. If that’s 70% of your FTP then a little training on the boards and you could be breezing past Wiggo’s hour on a Boris Bike. So I’m guessing that’s not that long of a hill and you’re actually going well past Zone 2 bar the HR lag. 

    Look, I advocate spinning as much as anyone, and I agree with your general sentiment. But IMHO if you keep it above 70rpm, even if only just, on the hardest stretches of your local roads, then you should be fine. It’s when you see new riders grind up at 40rpm on 7% gradients where I take some issue (mainly with the shops that push those sales). But I’d wager even Nairo Quintana avoids 15% gradients on his Zone 2 rides.  At least when he goes out on his road bike.

    April 7, 2017 at 7:00 pm #890785
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    CXR94Di2

    MarkOne wrote:

    MarkOne wrote:
    Simon E wrote:

    …. that 4-tooth step to the 32 tooth cog is very welcome.

    As for chainrings, aren’t you supposed to be able to replace the chainrings on a semi-compact with 50/34?…. 12 & 13 from another cassette. .

    Hoping that 32 has me spinning 70 at least on most bills here.

    Yeah looks like I can swap the rings later if I need, rather than the whole chainset as i’d feared

    No idea what those calculators mean tbh!

    70 rpm isn’t spinning, it’s borderline grinding. 90rpm and above is spinning. It relieves so much leg stress to spin high rpm. You will arrive at the top of the hill able to continue without gasping and slowing to recover

    Below is a table from Sheldon brown 3 columns showing chainring​s I’ve selected 52,36,28. The numbers down the side are a standard 11-32 Cass. Sheldon’s calc indicates a 14% difference between using a 28t and 32t. That is huge and can be the difference between getting up a hill or not

    With you weighing 70kg, unless very unfit, you should be able to climb with a 28t reasonably well. But saying that, having a bailout gear with a 32 t is always nice.

    I went out today to do a long ride in zone 2 no matter what i came across,. I rode up a long hill of 16 % at 90 rpm, kept my heart rate below 140bpm by using 28t chain ring and 32t sprocket. I do weigh nearly 100kg and can power up short climbs but prefer to hold a very high cadence for hills more than a few hundred meters.

    April 7, 2017 at 3:08 pm #890783
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    MarkOne

    rdmp2 wrote:

    rdmp2 wrote:
    I find this to be the best way to compare ratios I’ve set it to compare 50/34 11-28 with 52/36 11-32…

    Nice one thanks

    April 7, 2017 at 2:46 pm #890781
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    rdmp2

    I find this to be the best
    I find this to be the best way to compare ratios I’ve set it to compare 50/34 11-28 with 52/36 11-32.

    http://www.ritzelrechner.de/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25,28&UF=2125&TF=90&SL=2.6&UN=MPH&GR2=DERS&KB2=36,52&RZ2=11,12,13,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32&UF2=2125

    April 7, 2017 at 2:04 pm #890779
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    MarkOne

    theloststarfighter wrote:

    theloststarfighter wrote:

    I find this site illustrates it nicely;

    http://www.gear-calculator.com/

    … So I don’t think running a 52/36 with 11-32 is an issue, there’s just not as smooth progression in certain changes.


    Ok I see more clearly thanks that the 36/52 is giving a wider ratio. I rode it today and prefer the slightly different gearing it gives that I used, but didn’t have to go whole 36 to 32 yet (actually beat a PR without even trying, with a rucksack on!)
    Will tackle a few climbs tomorrow

    April 7, 2017 at 1:58 pm #890777
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    MarkOne

    Simon E]

    MarkOne</p> <p></strong><br />[quote=Simon E wrote:
    [quote=MarkOne]The steep angle of the 11-32 in higher gears indicates bigger gaps in what I find are the more useful ratios for general road riding. On the flip side, in lower gears this gearing means the 39t is not far off the gearing of a 34×28 compact for hills.


    I now have much more of an idea thank you! The graph works well to show it. I will have a need around with it later

    April 7, 2017 at 1:56 pm #890775
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    MarkOne

    jterrier wrote:

    jterrier wrote:
    Yeah. Science aside, i have exactly the setup you describe, it works brill for everything and shifts fine. The end.

    Haha nice! I just got my bike back, rode it and already feel the hearing is better for me (and very smooth ł, but doesn’t need the 32 in anger.
    The bike shop guy does say don’t give it too much force on the 52 and 28 or 32 though, as the spring is stretched on the rear derailleur… I wouldn’t usually ride those anyway though (cross-chaining and 36 for hills)..

    April 7, 2017 at 12:46 pm #890773
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    Jimthebikeguy.com

    Yeah. Science aside, i have
    Yeah. Science aside, i have exactly the setup you describe, it works brill for everything and shifts fine. The end.

    April 7, 2017 at 12:20 pm #890771
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    Simon E

    MarkOne wrote:

    MarkOne wrote:
    No idea what those calculators mean tbh!

    They can be useful to compare ratios for various cassettes and chainsets.

    I select a tyre size, use gear inches (because it’s what I’m familiar with), enter chainring sizes and select the relevant cassette from the drop-down. I then put the numbers into Excel to get a graph or chart so I can visualise the ratios. Attached is one that shows 39 and 34 tooth chainrings with a couple of  10-speed cassettes.

    Blue = 39t chainring with 11-32
    Green = 39t chainring with 12-28
    Red = 34t chainring with 12-28

    The steep angle of the 11-32 in higher gears indicates bigger gaps in what I find are the more useful ratios for general road riding. On the flip side, in lower gears this gearing means the 39t is not far off the gearing of a 34×28 compact for hills.

    April 7, 2017 at 12:12 pm #890769
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    theloststarfighter

    I find this site illustrates

    I find this site illustrates it nicely;

    http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=36,52&RZ=11,12,13,14,16,18,20,22,25,28,32&UF=2135&TF=100&SL=2.85&UN=MPH&GR2=DERS&KB2=34,50&RZ2=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25,28&UF2=2135

    Shows a difference in ration of 0.08 between a 36 & 28 and a 34 & 28 and then the 36 & 32 gives you a 1.13 ratio.  So I don’t think running a 52/36 with 11-32 is an issue, there’s just not as smooth progression in certain changes.

     

    (you might have to play around to get the set up you want to compare)

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